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MC2505-2 filter cap information

Celadon

You can’t Change Spots… On an Ocelot
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Yikes looks like I am entering back into the fold --- after a long sabbatical, LOL I have returned to speak about "capacitor leakage"
While most of us think of leakage as a physical thing, also remember the "other leakage" uhh electronically.
THAT SAID....
My 2505 (beautifully restored by Terry DeWick, many years ago) I feel so fortunate to have had that amp in his hands ... has sounded awesome and been powered on for at least a constant ~10 years-- used daily.

So I pull it down to polish the chassis, every couple of years, and was looking into replacement filter caps -- yea the big ones -- upon further inspection I found one of the caps had physically puked some of its nastiness onto my purdy minty beautiful chrome chassis..... Yes ~ corrosion had ensued ... fortunately I caught it in time that you would not see it if I had new filter caps ... blah blah blah ----

Terry did a wonderful job and the caps did not warrant replacement years ago === unfortunately life got in the way and upon finding this mess under one cap I was about sick.... As I had just bought a new Faceplate from Mc Labs and was getting ready to do the detail thing.

Seeing all of these funky replaceemnt caps and "drillling into the chassis to accomodate the new caps". was BS to me -- and the old ass Aero or whatever replacements---- yech... Yea I could have stuffed the old caps like I did in my beater C26 but not for this amp!

Mc Labs provided me with the proper replacement filter caps (9300 to 15k I think) woohoo ! -- although blue (some complain,not me) / and a chunk of change.
I am on my way to pristine (almost) once again.

Imagine support from the factory for a 1970's amp.... HEROS ~ awesome help and support.

LED's in my 2505 --- no WAY!
bought all the incandescents for the amp and a couple other pretties for it ... now to get to work. anxious to hear the results.
Huge Kudos to the Mc parts guys --- THE BEST!!

Maybe some pics, but life's pretty rough right now, so....

***A bit of scratchiness on the Power switch and gain controls so I figure some Cailube is in order --
Guys -if I am wrong please steer me in the correct direction.on the switches / chemicals.***


TheTechnics RS1500 and Pioneer RT707 are next .... LOL gonna buy a HAKKO desolder gun for those ...

Yeesh, prices sure have changed, and maybe some of you guys remember me ...

~Richard
 
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. . .Mc Labs provided me with the proper replacement filter caps (9300 to 15k I think) woohoo ! -- although blue (some complain,not me) / and a chunk of change. I am on my way to pristine (almost) once again. . .

***A bit of scratchiness on the Power switch and gain controls so I figure some Cailube is in order --
Guys -if I am wrong please steer me in the correct direction.on the switches / chemicals.*** . . .

Nice to know Mc still sells those caps, I should maybe buy some to be ready for my MC2505.

F5 Faderlube seems to be popular these days. The amp needs the controls cleaned every couple of years.
 
Yikes looks like I am entering back into the fold --- after a long sabbatical, LOL I have returned to speak about "capacitor leakage"
While most of us think of leakage as a physical thing, also remember the "other leakage" uhh electronically.
THAT SAID....
My 2505 (beautifully restored by Terry DeWick, many years ago) I feel so fortunate to have had that amp in his hands ... has sounded awesome and been powered on for at least a constant ~10 years-- used daily.

So I pull it down to polish the chassis, every couple of years, and was looking into replacement filter caps -- yea the big ones -- upon further inspection I found one of the caps had physically puked some of its nastiness onto my purdy minty beautiful chrome chassis..... Yes ~ corrosion had ensued ... fortunately I caught it in time that you would not see it if I had new filter caps ... blah blah blah ----

Terry did a wonderful job and the caps did not warrant replacement years ago === unfortunately life got in the way and upon finding this mess under one cap I was about sick.... As I had just bought a new Faceplate from Mc Labs and was getting ready to do the detail thing.

Seeing all of these funky replaceemnt caps and "drillling into the chassis to accomodate the new caps". was BS to me -- and the old ass Aero or whatever replacements---- yech... Yea I could have stuffed the old caps like I did in my beater C26 but not for this amp!

Mc Labs provided me with the proper replacement filter caps (9300 to 15k I think) woohoo ! -- although blue (some complain,not me) / and a chunk of change.
I am on my way to pristine (almost) once again.

Imagine support from the factory for a 1970's amp.... HEROS ~ awesome help and support.

LED's in my 2505 --- no WAY!
bought all the incandescents for the amp and a couple other pretties for it ... now to get to work. anxious to hear the results.
Huge Kudos to the Mc parts guys --- THE BEST!!

Maybe some pics, but life's pretty rough right now, so....

***A bit of scratchiness on the Power switch and gain controls so I figure some Cailube is in order --
Guys -if I am wrong please steer me in the correct direction.on the switches / chemicals.***


TheTechnics RS1500 and Pioneer RT707 are next .... LOL gonna buy a HAKKO desolder gun for those ...

Yeesh, prices sure have changed, and maybe some of you guys remember me ...

~Richard
Recently cleaned my power switch and speaker switch with Deoxit D100 followed by Faderlube.
 
Thanks guys -- confirmed my thoughts, just wanted to make sure I was on the right track.

BTW- I would have never known the cap was physically leaking until I pulled it to test capacitance/esr ...
Then found the fiber washer on one post needed to be dislodged was (soaked) w/ nasty chemical... the corrosion damage was/is limited to underneath the cap so no rusty crud to be seen when I replace ....

And yes, I did buy the lamps from Mc -- figured coulda bought them cheaper elsewhere, but sometimes in life ya get what ya pay for. =-=

~R
 
Awww **** ...
now ya got me ===
OK pretty ==damn nice, now you gonna make me take pics !

yikes, guys like you make me prove stuff --- gimmme a break.....
ALWAYS good in the AK family... my opinions and posts are just that.
There's aways more than one way to do stuff.
Lookin good.

~R
 
There are 2 camps about this: traditional vs LED. Will not go into detail since it is personal choice.

There isn't any requirement to replace the lamp on my MC2505 but I have a bunch of LEDs on hand so just play with it.
It is much brighter so for letter is fine but direct behind meter is blotchy especially for MC2155 and similar.
It is ok for MC2505 since the light is not directly behind the meter.
 
Is removing the glass (to get to the bulbs) the same on a 2505 as it is on a 2105?
There is a decent video series on youtube about the 2105, but not as much info on the 2505s
 
Most of older McIntosh's glass is mounted inside the bracket, then the bracket is mounted to the unit with side screws.
The below is MC2155 glass as a whole when remove from the unit.

You should remove knobs (of course) then the little front top cover before anything else.

upload_2021-4-6_10-53-36.png
 
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I still use the original gel for the meter. Removed and cleaned with alcohol.
Never buy color or white LED, warm white is the only LED you should buy.
 
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