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MC30 preamp suggestions

I have a C20 that I got from the original owner about 3 years ago. Earliest version, had it completely recapped and have never used it. I have the matching MC60's as well, consecutive SN all restored as well. I also have the original C20 and MC60 caps that were moved , as well as manuals and schematics. The MC60's are staying with me for now, I use them from time to time.

The C20 I would part with.

FWIW, I tried the Audio Research stuff many years a go and it was kinda high maintenence and never stayed in the system long. You can do much better.

Below is a pic of my C20.
Would love to see a pic of your MC60s. I’ll show you mine if you show me yours lol.
 
You already have the amplifiers, and IMO they (should) have more influence on the sound than the preamp. Tube amplifiers with tube rectification tend to impart more of their character than SS rectified, and you can argue whether other vintage (and some new) amplifier such as a vintage Citation etc. is any different.

At this point it is more about a quiet, accurate preamp that matches your source (TT?) well and has all of the inputs and controls that you require. That, and how you want it to match your system aesthetically.

My suggestion is to create a list with some priority that has what you want to see/own in a preamp. If you want it to be McIntosh, be era-correct for the MC30s, pair with a particular cartridge, have more than one TT and maybe a tape-loop, EQ or not, ... you’ll likely find that this will drive you to a particular amplifier using the compendium or McIntosh’s own legacy products page and then ask for feedback on that choice (or those choices). If you’re sticking with McIntosh there really aren’t any bad choices anyway, just some that are more maintenance, some that are more vintage looking, some with more collectible value, etc.

If it were me for example, I’d choose a McIntosh preamp new enough to have sealed pots, electronic switching, and a remote-control, regardless of which amplifiers I’m pairing. Not very vintage looking, but that’s a trade-off that I’d be making. Your priority list will of course be different.
 
Are those 12x12 marble floor tiles? Did you remove the feet from the amplifiers and mount them or are they sitting directly on the tiles?

I like the look, have spare granite tiles from new floors years ago, might adopt your idea.
 
Not marble floor tiles. They are Mission amplifier stands. I have had them for years. The have squishy feet with ceramic cups under them. Work pretty well. Made in the 90's I think.
 
Also got a suggestion of an audio research SP3-A1 or C? If anyone has heard it before in comparison to the others.
I have both. A couple of ARC SP3-1-A and Late C-20. Personally the C-20 sounds better with MC30’s. The loudness contour makes more sense on the C-20. On the ARC from what I understand, the contour is supposed to be used more like a volume control. Both are very flexible.
 
Hello everyone I got a pair of Mc30 as well last week paired with Altec 19, the monobloks are in good aesthetic conditions, but caps and res are original, the 19's need a bit of TLC, for the moment I also have a pre/power from Copland CTA 301/504, I think I'll match the Copland and the MC30 for the moment, then maybe I'll sell the Copland's and I'll buy the AR SP8, half price than the C20/22, I don't need too much imputs or controls, hate loudness and tone control, have to say the Copland CTA 301 MK I that I own is perfect for my needs. The 19's need new dust cups, already ordered from GPA, and grill cloth, a bit of steel wool and oil to finish, I found on those not the original 811-B welded horn but the early 811 '52-'53-'54 sand cast aluminium horn.
 

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I think I am leaning towards a C20, hoping it would be a good pairing. Although a C22 commemorative (mk2?) is tempting. What is repairability like on newer units?

The later c20 seems to have a less gold appearance. Does anyone know the differences between the earlier or later versions internally?
 
Just an update, I ended up going with an original c22. In pretty good original shape overall and hoping it pairs well with the MC30s.

I’ll give it a clean up and a listen once I have a little bit of time.

If I wanted to restore it to new condition is there anywhere I go for some parts like metal face plate, glass, knobs, cover, etc?
 

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Just an update, I ended up going with an original c22. In pretty good original shape overall and hoping it pairs well with the MC30s.
That`s my setup as well .
A 2000 purchased off eBay original condition early 60ties mint C-22.
Driving my 1974 purchased used MC-30s electrically restored, & SS rectified by me over 15 yrs. ago.

Even though I haven`t electronically done anything to the C-22 other than replace the the 2 festoon front panel lights after receiving it, it is currently sounds very good and is performing very well.

Good luck with your Mc. tube setup, Pantflapper.
 
If C-28's have been fully restored and you like a smooth SS sound with out all the tube issues of Mac tubed pre-amps that would be the one I would choose as it has the smoothest sounding phono inputs of the SS amps. I also like pre amps with graphic tone controls so that would mean a C-33 or 34. I will admit the sound from a MX 110 Z tuner was great, but as FM is pretty much out of favor now days and the 110 won't receive HD broadcasts I would just stick with a good sounding ss pre-amps with graphic controls and a full mode selector. I occasionally use the loudness control when when I have guests over. Just make sure you set the volume controls on your power amp as recommended by Mcintosh. 2.5 volt sensitivity.
 
As I stated in my previous post I choose to drive mi MC30’s by AR SP8 preamp, that because of a simpler construction compared to MC’s preamps, I never use tone control and loudness and basically I need only three inputs, phono, cd/aux, tuner, balance control is unnecessary as well for me, and I save money too!
 

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If you listen to a lot of Lp's and have full range speakers you cannot survive with out balance and graphic tone controls. The LP people were always playing tricks with low bass and mid=bass. So it either the 5 graphic controls on the pre-amp or the parametric controls on the program EQ.s You absolutely need variable high pass filters to get rid of the vinyl rumble on most LP's. Even LP's from Acoustic Sounds have tape print thru, and acoustic rumble from near by commuter trains and heavy trucks going by. Digital releases of old analog recordings can be just nasty with over emphasized highs and upper midrange. But what really bugs me is when they reverse the channels from the original performance or the LP recording. What do you do about that? I know some folks think what's on an Lp or 5 inch is holy, but as a former recoding engineer that is so far from the truth of the matter.
 
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