You're 23 yo? Well, welcome to the club!

That's a real prize. I imagine there will be a lot of interest (and good advice) in the restoration process. Post plenty of of pics and keep us posted! Dave Gillespie is probably is great resource for these old unity-coupled amps, hopefully he'll chime in.
Your a younger member too?

I will definitely keep everyone updated when I start in on this amplifier and Preamp, I'll start a proper thread when I get all the parts together and have the time to start in on her!

there's a couple things I'm not sure of yet, like if I should try and reform the Electrolytics or just shotgun replace them, and when I replace them, if for an amplifier like this, if I should go ahead and restuff the cans (which I have plenty of experience on from working with tube radios) or if I should just bite the bullet and buy New custom Mallory Can capacitors with the right specs.
Looking at the Schematic definitely had me scratching my head for a minute... I've never seen a tube amplifier start out with a Phase inverter right off the bat, and then go right into a driver tube (in this case a pair of 6J5's for each 6v6) and then having some interesting coupling for the output transformer...very interesting indeed. Whoever had this amplifier replaced the old 12ax7 with a Telefunken ECC83 tube. I checked the date code and it gave me a hit for Nov, 1962 so I believe the amplifier was in service until at least 1962 granted the tube wasn't replaced at a later date. I haven't checked the date codes for the Ken-Rad tubes because I know they aren't as common as say Tung Sol or Sylvania tubes... The other 3 tubes are McIntosh originals though, the 5y3gt, and 6J5 pair.
Interestingly enough, I think this is an "early production" 20W2 amplifier, the rectifier tube is stamped as a 5V4gt on the chassis, but it's an original branded 5y3gt so I know that came that way from the factory with a 5y3. And then, where the 12ax7 tube is, the chassis is cut out for an Octal tube socket, instead of the 9 pin socket. As if they were planning on using a 6SL7 or 6SN7, but at the last minute decided on the 12AX7.. I just thought that was fairly interesting, because I've never seen an Octal Sized 9 pin socket before I came across this amplifier...
I haven't opened up the Ae-2 Preamp yet, so I'm not sure what goodies are waiting inside for me

but I know for sure that the 12AX7s are safe and sound inside. I can tell the Metal Cover hasn't ever been opened before, there aren't any of the "scratch" marks you usually see from star washers scraping the cover plate, which is always a good sign... The Amp is the same way, I always like to see an All Original Unmolested Amplifier, untouched by any servicemen or interested child or teenager. So that made me real happy to see that the amplifier and Preamplifier hasn't ever been serviced or tampered with. The only thing that was kind of a bummer was finding out that the Amplifier might have came with a Cage from the Factory. Granted I'm not totally sure if it was an accessory or not, looking online I haven't seen one photo of this amp with one. But I did see ads for this amps younger brother, the 15W2 that had the cage.
Back to the technical side of things, I think that the only modification I'm going to make to the Amplifier is adding a Thermistor to the hot leg, or both legs of the power transformer. Im still not sure though, since this amp may actually draw a large amount of current, since its also powering up a Preamp too. And I'll probably add a fuse inside the Preamp too, right after the On-Off switch, but only if there isn't one already. Just so I can keep the amplifier chassis clean and original. Because the Preamplifier chassis isn't going to be checked out quite as much as the power Amp chassis. I have the perfect fuse holder from the '50's to use for this Project. In this day and age, there's no reason to risk burning up this unobtainium equipment.
Adding a Thermistor might make the Amp have a longer warm up time, but for me, the low cost of less than $3 a piece to add 1 or 2 Thermistors is a no brainer. And with that, I have the peace of mind (no pun intended

) knowing I'm not adding stress to the Tubes, Transformers, or the passives like resistors and capacitors. I added one to a Japanese Layfayette Tube Receiver i use in my bedroom. It doesn't have a rectifier tube, so as soon as the power switch was turned on, the tubes would get a dose of 275VDC on Cold Cathodes and Plates. But now, the thermistor gives a slow start up instead of throwing HVDC across cold tubes that aren't warmed up yet. I could tell that the EL84 tubes and Drivers didn't like that, because those were the only 4 tubes replaced in the whole Stereo, so I swapped out the Groove Tubes (never been a fan of the Chinese tubes, but that's just me) and installed GE tubes instead.


Sorry with my ADHD, coupled with a few brews and a joint or two, sometimes i get a bit off track and a little long winded. My apologies..


anyhow that's the reason why I always add thermistors to my equipment because you really can't beat prolonging the life of your tubes for less than $7 worth of parts. So I always try and install them whenever I can because just so long as they're in a place where heat isn't an issue they really can't cause any damage to anything. Anyhow it's getting late here where I'm at! Rock on man
