McIntosh MC2255 amp and C29 pre amp - advice needed
- Thread starter jervz
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captouch
Addicted Member
Is this in a bright room or even in the evening? I don’t know the particulars of the C29 and haven’t had the glass off my C27 which is of a similar voltage, but I know some glass faceplates use a plastic light guide affixed to the back of the faceplate to spread the light around. But even in that case (where you might be missing the light guide), I would think you’d at least see some brighter spots from the front.
Also, did you try to shine a brighter light (like a flashlight) behind the glass to see how things look from the front?
I’m wondering if there’s just a mismatch in expectations where you’re expecting much brighter illumination from the front than what is normal.
Best to start your own thread on this, as it’s far from what this thread is discussing.
As @captouch mentioned, the plastic light-pipe that should be on the backside of the glass is extremely important in proper lighting, sounds like it is missing. Not available, you’re going to have a tough time making the lighting look correct without it.
As @captouch mentioned, the plastic light-pipe that should be on the backside of the glass is extremely important in proper lighting, sounds like it is missing. Not available, you’re going to have a tough time making the lighting look correct without it.
jcat8s
New Member
jcat8s
New Member
Yes...it is there...and intact
captouch
Addicted Member
Well, the thing is if the lights are off, all you really see is gold lettering which you may not even see all that well without some light.
If the backlight is there, the gold lettering turns green, well enough to read, but by no means bright in my C27 - this is in a fairly dim room. In the daylight, especially bright light, I’m sure they’d still appear green, but I’m not so sure I’d definitively be able to say they were backlit.
So if you see the lettering as green, the backlights are working at least to some degree. My C27 uses the stock incandescent bulbs.
This isn’t to say there couldn’t be a unit specific issue on yours like the lighting voltage being a bit under what it should be, but I don’t think it’s supposed to be bright. Nowadays, it may be more bling-like to make the lighting obvious, but back in the 70’s, things as a default were probably a little more understated.
I put LEDs in my 2255, but also have a replacement faceplate since my original was cracked. The lettering on my 2255 is definitely brighter, but I can’t say for sure if it’s due to the new glass or LEDs, though I’d lean more toward the LEDs if forced to choose.
Also, you never know what effect the camera/camera settings used can influence the look of the picture. Sometimes it can make colors look different or make lighting look brighter or dimmer than reality.
If the backlight is there, the gold lettering turns green, well enough to read, but by no means bright in my C27 - this is in a fairly dim room. In the daylight, especially bright light, I’m sure they’d still appear green, but I’m not so sure I’d definitively be able to say they were backlit.
So if you see the lettering as green, the backlights are working at least to some degree. My C27 uses the stock incandescent bulbs.
This isn’t to say there couldn’t be a unit specific issue on yours like the lighting voltage being a bit under what it should be, but I don’t think it’s supposed to be bright. Nowadays, it may be more bling-like to make the lighting obvious, but back in the 70’s, things as a default were probably a little more understated.
I put LEDs in my 2255, but also have a replacement faceplate since my original was cracked. The lettering on my 2255 is definitely brighter, but I can’t say for sure if it’s due to the new glass or LEDs, though I’d lean more toward the LEDs if forced to choose.
Also, you never know what effect the camera/camera settings used can influence the look of the picture. Sometimes it can make colors look different or make lighting look brighter or dimmer than reality.
jcat8s
New Member
I have seen these lit up very nicely...here are a couple different ones on Ebay that I have seen...thank you way big time for your time and all...
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Some, if not all vintage McIntosh units are sensitive to the correct placement of the filament in the bulb, or more specifically the dimension between the bayonet pins (or bulb tip if a screw-in) and the filament, as this determines whether it is in the correct position in the light-pipe on the front of the unit. It is entirely possible that someone replaced all of the bulbs with a bunch of cheap Chinese bulbs and they are not made correctly which will significantly reduce the light coming from the light-pipe.