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Mcs 3233

I have the same one as the op, ran it in the garage for awhile and then came across a MCS integraded system, its pretty cool too. Kudos to the op for that cleanin job, well done bro.....Roost
 
I just got one of these from a friend to fix. It looks like a pretty nice unit, but the left channel is out.
Everything else appears to be working. Does anyone have a copy of the service manual they can post?
I can't find it on line and would really appreciate it!
Thanks...
Chuck
 
I ran into this a while back. Instead of looking for MCS xxxx, look for JC Penny and use the number on the back of the unit. IIRC, mine had a tag or label on the rear panel, with a number like, 863-xxxxxxxx. I believe I found it on hifiengine (no affiliation).

Bubba57
 
As posted above there are no manuals avail. Perhaps a schematic in the back of a user manual but you won't find manuals either.

Might start a new thread of your unit and tell us what is wrong and what you have done for testing etc. Pics are worth 10,000 words.
 
what are all the numbers on the back tag of the receiver? Look for numbers like Bubba57 mentioned.

After reading his comment I did some searching and it looks like there are a few manuals that are available. Couldn't find one for the 3275 but looked like I found one for the 3125.
 
Good product, great service from Stereomanuals.com.
I've bought from him more than once, including an MCS 3125 manual.
 
The back of the 3233 calls for 3 identical fuses to be used. All should be 3AMP/3AG fuses -- it's stencilled right on the back panel.

My two speaker fuses are the same, but they are not 3AMP/3AG fuses. The filament is straight, has a slight zigzag, and is identical in both.

The third fuse is not the same as the two speaker fuses. And it, too, is not a 3AMP/3AG fuse. And the filament has a very aggressive, noticeable zigzag shape.

Does all of this matter? One another forum it was noted that the 3233 is very picky about its fuses. And mentioned that the sound passes through these fuses - or similar language.

In another thread, MCS Guy notes that the fuses are a weak part of this unit (or similar language, my language not his). So, anything we do to improve the situation? It appears that the previous owner of my 3233 put in new/different fuses and everything works fine -- no blown fuses, but then again I've never pushed the 3233. Any other solutions to this issue? Do I need to upgrade my fuse game? Maybe I should just leave well enough alone.
 
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starcopy said:
The back of the 3233 calls for 3 identical fuses to be used. All should be 3AMP/3AG fuses -- it's stencilled right on the back panel.

My two speaker fuses are the same, but they are not 3AMP/3AG fuses. The filament is straight, has a slight zigzag, and is identical in both.

The third fuse is not the same as the two speaker fuses. And it, too, is not a 3AMP/3AG fuse. And the filament has a very aggressive, noticeable zigzag shape.

Does all of this matter? One another forum it was noted that the 3233 is very picky about its fuses. And mentioned that the sound passes through these fuses - or similar language.

In another thread, MCS Guy notes that the fuses are a weak part of this unit (or similar language, my language not his). So, anything we do to improve the situation? It appears that the previous owner of my 3233 put in new/different fuses and everything works fine -- no blown fuses, but then again I've never pushed the 3233. Any other solutions to this issue? Do I need to upgrade my fuse game? Maybe I should just leave well enough alone.
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I would use what the stereo calls for. If the fuse is sized for a larger amperage, then the protection is inadequate. If it is sized smaller, then it will blow before the full potential power of the stereo is reached. What sizes are in it?
 
Racingh11 said:
I would use what the stereo calls for. If the fuse is sized for a larger amperage, then the protection is inadequate. If it is sized smaller, then it will blow before the full potential power of the stereo is reached. What sizes are in it?
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The one fuse is a 3A 250V 312. The second and third fuses (both speaker fuses) are identical BUSS AGC4 250V with "UL" and "SA" logos on them. Does that help? I'm guessing -- and it's purely a guess - that a previous owner made some deliberate fuse changes or "upgrades" or whatever. Just not sure why?
 
Seems odd that anyone would replace them if they didn't blow. Maybe they thought they would get more power that way. Wouldn't surprise me.
 
starcopy said:
The one fuse is a 3A 250V 312. The second and third fuses (both speaker fuses) are identical BUSS AGC4 250V with "UL" and "SA" logos on them. Does that help? I'm guessing -- and it's purely a guess - that a previous owner made some deliberate fuse changes or "upgrades" or whatever. Just not sure why?
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That is a 4 Amp semi-fast-blo and are supposed to be 3 Amp. You do want fast blow unless it calls for a different type. I would put in what it calls for which is 3A. The "zig-zag" won't matter and is actually not quite as "fast" blow as a straight element one. If you don't really crank it, you'll be fine with the 4A speaker fuses. But definitely put the main power fuse what it is supposed to be. If something blows internally, you WANT the main power fuse to blow as it should to minimize any damage.
 
Thanks for posting -- and for the good advice @Skywatcher and @Racingh11. Maybe they did blow -- and the original owner replaced them with something that he/she hoped would not blow. I'll follow your sound advice. So I sort of swap fuses -- put the 4As to protect the speakers, and the 3A as the main power fuse?

In other somewhat un-related 3233 news: I had two TTs that I was using with my 3233 at different times. (1) My Luxman TT sits NEXT to the 3233. (2) And I have a Pioneer TT sitting on TOP of the 3233. Both remained "hot" (both plugged in to my Furman power source and both grounded to the 3233). I just easily swapped the phono inputs when I wanted to enjoy one or the other. I was getting a pronounced "hum" from the Pioneer sitting on top of the 3233. So, without an album playing I maxed out the volume and carefully, slowly lifted the Pioneer TT up off the 3233 an inch at a time -- no platter spinning. As expected, the farther away I lifted the Pioneer TT, the less hum I heard. But I did not expect to hear virtually all of the hum disappear. I had to put 14+ inches between the Pioneer and the top of the 3233 to get the hum to go away. But the hum really did vanish. Almost completely. What a nice surprise for a 50-year old unit. (The Pioneer TT sits really low and does not allow much 3233 heat to escape from its vents -- but I was careful not to "push it.") Another small victory for us vintage audio fanatics. Cheers.
 
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starcopy said:
Thanks for posting -- and for the good advice @Skywatcher and @Racingh11. Maybe they did blow -- and the original owner replaced them with something that he/she hoped would not blow. I'll follow your sound advice. So I sort of swap fuses -- put the 4As to protect the speakers, and the 3A as the main power fuse?

In other somewhat un-related 3233 news: I had two TTs that I was using with my 3233 at different times. (1) My Luxman TT sits NEXT to the 3233. (2) And I have a Pioneer TT sitting on TOP of the 3233. Both remained "hot" (both plugged in to my Furman power source and both grounded to the 3233). I just easily swapped the phono inputs when I wanted to enjoy one or the other. I was getting a pronounced "hum" from the Pioneer sitting on top of the 3233. So, without an album playing I maxed out the volume and carefully, slowly lifted the Pioneer TT up off the 3233 an inch at a time -- no platter spinning. As expected, the farther away I lifted the Pioneer TT, the less hum I heard. But I did not expect to hear virtually all of the hum disappear. I had to put 14+ inches between the Pioneer and the top of the 3233 to get the hum to go away. But the hum really did vanish. Almost completely. What a nice surprise for a 50-year old unit. (The Pioneer TT sits really low and does not allow much 3233 heat to escape from its vents -- but I was careful not to "push it.") Another small victory for us vintage audio fanatics. Cheers.
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It's bad practice to sit anything on top of a receiver, and especially a turntable. Besides the instability and heat, the phono inputs are very sensitive and a TT is an antenna. It was probably picking up RF noise from the receiver and feeding it back into the inputs.
 
So that's where all that noise/hum was coming from. I agree completely with you BTW. It's just a quick temporary hookup so I could easily test the TT (just acquired), check out the condition of the cart/stylus, and see if it would make a good gift for my daughter. And I believe the 3233 can also generate some heat -- I've read at least two AK posts where a 3233 owner rigged a fan (inside/out) to keep the innards a bit cooler. I'm surprised at how many people DO place their TTs on their receiver longterm to save space. What about placing a tuner on top of a receiver LOL? Thanks for posting. Have a good weekend.
 
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