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mcs 3275 and 3125

Sorry maybe mis read thought you went from 60-80v on the caps... if new should last easy with select but maybe not as 'quiet' as in no 'hum' but run the caps as good info.

Summarize progress if you need help. Sometimes posts don't get updated and that's okay, too. lol some take 'months'.
 
just picked up an mcs 3236 too.... i cant seem to stop! hahaha i see this mcs stuff and i just have to have it, its such quality equipment! i need more speakers!
 
I asked if you got them as I just wanted to know if it was a reliable source and you got what you ordered.
I measured my filter caps a while ago when I was thinking about replacing them.
My measurements were 33mm W by 80mm H (about 1 3/8 inches wide and about 3 inches tall)
I'm guessing there should be enough play in the filter cap clamps to slightly loosen them to make the slightly larger Nichicons fit ok.
 
I asked if you got them as I just wanted to know if it was a reliable source and you got what you ordered.
I measured my filter caps a while ago when I was thinking about replacing them.
My measurements were 33mm W by 80mm H (about 1 3/8 inches wide and about 3 inches tall)
I'm guessing there should be enough play in the filter cap clamps to slightly loosen them to make the slightly larger Nichicons fit ok.

yeah after seeing what 35mm really looked like on my set of calipers i realized these new nichicons might be a little wider and you just confirmed that so im hoping the clamps will loosen a little bit
 
I think it will be ok, you have to figure the clamps are tightened down to some degree on the OEM caps so there should be some room for a slightly bigger cap.

This could be a thread with handy info down the road, maybe you could post pics as you go.
 
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yeah once i get this aluminum housed resistor to discharge the filter caps ill take some pictures of what ive got goin on with it. the nichicon kg's are a little shorter than the panasonic UP's but they are wider. the panasonics are heavier though.

UP-49.67 grams
KG-47.32 grams

i still have to repair the number 60 trace lead on the volume circuit board but i have some ez circuit strips .062" copper pressure sensitive adhesive.. only problem is i need it to be about .039" so ill be acquiring a scalpel. its okay though because i already needed a small brush to apply the solder mask over the repair.

*went to wal mart and got a big glue gun with the long glue sticks so i can really dump glue fast when i need a lot of hot glue before enough time has passed for some to dry.. also got a zirconium nitride coated exacto knife, tweezers, and an assortment of brushes..

still dont have the resistor though.. may have to wait to do the filter caps. i still dont have the solder mask coating but i figure i would have it before it needs the bottom plate put back on.
 
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just got done with the filter caps. ive got pics of some stuff but i forgot to start taking pictures until the circuit board repair was complete. i managed to cut the perfect sized strip of copper adhesive circuit track repair for the job. some 62/36/2 silver bearing solder really brought everything together nicely with rosin flux on every surface. all that is left to do now is clean controls, the actual knobs themselves, the faceplate, and the bottom cover from the leaking electrolytic crap coming from the old filter caps.

word of advise to anyone getting ready to do ANYTHING to this receiver... unplug the transformer (2 plugs one big, one small on chassis), unbolt it from the chassis, and take it the hell out! its gotta be around 20-25 lbs and it mounts on stationary studs. i removed the bolts with a 5/16 inch socket on my milwaukee 18v lithium ion cordless impact driver. this makes the receiver a breeze to work with! i fumbled it around a few times before making that decision and felt dumb for taking as long as i did to do so lol.

i am so excited to hear this thing. nichicon KG series caps and ive got a set of gold jena labs super jumpers to use as well for pre out to main in connections. ill obviously use the factory u shaped rods first to see just how much of a difference there is between a set of purpose built pre out to main in jumpers vs the standard metal U's. if there is any difference at all its worth the 108 dollars i spent on em, if not then at least they look about as cool as it gets; and to me, this 3125 is the coolest looking receiver ive ever laid eyes on. its flat out evil

i also picked up a few more mcs units. a beautiful 3236 that sounds like the baby sibling of the 3275 that blew my mind.. also a working and cosmetically nice (with exception of loose bass and balance knobs) but dirty/channel dropping 3226 and a non working 3226 with tight knobs (to anyone who understands what loose knobs mean on these smaller nec mcs units).. now i just need an mcs 3260 and or an aur-9060 to complete my mcs receiver stack.

i just had a hell of a night the other night listening to a trio of my realistic 2080 on these 100 watt mcs floor speakers, my realistic sta-78 on a set of bose 201's on top of the mcs's, and a marantz sr225 on a set of bose 141's on top of the 201's.

aside from some occasional clipping from the sta-78 from having it set improperly it sounded INCREDIBLE... granted we were in a state of mind that makes music rather... unbelievably pronounced i guess you could say lol:rockon::music: but it still sounded good anyway without the help of such things. each one of those receivers sounds really good with the best being surprisingly the sta-78. the marantz sr-225 is tied for first with the sta-78 because it does something very well that i cant quite put my finger on but it is clearly better than the sta-2080 and again the 2080- while being able to produce a powerful enough/useable and enjoyable bassline it just doesnt have the tone the sta-78 and sr-225 have. its too light on its delivery and doesnt give you every note. the 2080 seems to mash them together. the sta-78 has a loudness button AND an fm 25uS button which appears to increase top end frequency response/acoustics and it does it really well. the snare drums from that sta-78 are serious!

i have seen posts where what appear to be real A holes say the marantz sr-225 isnt worth anything because it bluebooks for junk but that little receiver has a serious little transformer/filter caps/heat sink.. the transformer and filter caps are nearly identical with the sta-78. that marantz sounds awesome and those people need to re-evaluate their life.

this mcs equipment all sounds better than anything i used in the stack though which is why im so excited i cant even sleep o_Oo_Oo_O

i cant stop smiling about the 3236. the led lights make clipping a non issue and its power availability for its size really helps as well! cant get over this thing

i also have a fairly priced nec a-910 integrated amplifier with intermittent power-on issues on the way too.. should be like the apollo creed to the rocky balboa of which is the 3125

seriously though someone sell me an mcs 3260/nec aur-9060 so i can stop buying receivers already hahahahahahaha:confused::confused::confused::whip:
 
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well i just got it all cleaned and back to functioning form and its popping the main fuse when i power it on. its popped it twice. the tuner lamps will come on and it will pop the fuse. maybe i wired the filter caps wrong? i wired the negative to the ground and the positive to the wires leading to the power supply boards. im really at a loss here at this point.
 
One of the caps will be backward due to it being for the negative rail. If you have them both wired the same way then you're going to be shorting one out through the cap.
 
If it's popping the main fuse you should be ok as it's doing it's job. Most likely if you were really ruining something the filter cap would have blown up which I'd imagine would be pretty amazing (and dangerous) as even tiny electrolytics pop like firecrackers when you reverse polarity.

Do you have pictures of the insides before you took the old caps out?
 
does anyone happen to have the proper routing of wire for the filter caps? the factory rubycons didnt exactly show which damn lead was negative
 
You're going to have to figure out which rail is - and then have that cap wired rail to negative terminal and positive terminal to ground. The schematic will be able to tell you which is which.
 
i do but all the wires are grouped together on the leads they are meant to be on together, i just dont know if the groups should have been on the positive or negative side at this point.

im really not sure how to wire this up at this point. i have no idea what wires really went to positive and negative leads, i just assumed the negative leads held the grounds and one colored wire on each side
 
You could probably get away with pulling the colored wires off both caps and checking what the voltage is when turned on. I don't think it would hurt anything to turn it on for a few seconds with no caps as there shouldn't be much of a load but don't hold me to it. Whichever one reads negative, turn that cap around.
 
ok nevermind i had a brainfart when examining the rubycon caps. the negative lead is determined by the rough texture of the lead end on the cap. i have before pictures so i should be able to figure it out
 
the two caps closest to the front of the receiver need flipped. i am so glad i got at least two of them in there right!! i am also so glad that nothing but a fuse blew too! really need to be paying better attention to things and when im not sure about something i need to do a better job of asking.
 
the two front caps with the blue wires coming off the protection relay board and going to the power supply boards are both wired to positive when they should be negative. considering everything on the relay board looks fine im guessing im okay once i get it wired right.
 
Sounds like you have it figured out and no major damage.
Before and after pics would be nice as this could be a useful reference thread in the future.

I take it the replacement filter caps fit into the OEM cap holders with no problems?
 
Sounds like you have it figured out and no major damage.
Before and after pics would be nice as this could be a useful reference thread in the future.

I take it the replacement filter caps fit into the OEM cap holders with no problems?

yup they slid in no problem. fixed it too, this thing is unbelievable. the tone defeat switches are still a little funky but i managed to mess with them enough to keep it connected well for now. theres no way im taking all the knobs back off this thing just to clean the tone defeat switches so im going to have to figure out a straw device to traverse through the sea of circuitry to the tone defeats.

the EQ knobs were so dirty it felt like they were a liquid filled switch. i thought it was supposed to be like that until i sprayed the D5 in there and worked em good. now they click like pots should lol.

i recommend people dont pull the bottom screw closest to the circuit board out of the volume/balance pot because the nut on the back took me around 40 minutes to get back on that one screw because its in between the row of leads and the volume pot housing. the top screw can be removed as the nut on the backside is easily accessible with your hand. personally after doing this id recommend only loosening both the screws and soaking the entire housing in deoxit as it comes apart in like 6 different pieces. with the screws loosened the de oxit creeps into the housing and i actually noticed that doing it that way made a physical difference in the tension of my balance pot, just like the EQ knobs. im not sure when ill spray the defeat switches again, most likely the next time they start acting up. im not going to touch them so hopefully they wont act up again for a little bit.

so far so good though. and turns out after some windex this thing is actually extremely clean!

OH the jena labs super jumpers? HUGE difference from standard pre out-main in jumper bars
 
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