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MHT300 and Dirac room correction

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dalderman

New Member
Anyone have an MHT300 and having trouble getting the room correction software to work?

After more than 50 tries, I have been able to get exactly one single successful reading. I keep getting an error message about signal to noise ratio.

I have tried all of the suggestions, such as turning the volume up and the microphone sensitivity down, etc., but nothing works. I’ve been in touch several times with McIntosh but their suggestions haven’t helped.

I find it ridiculous that McIntosh would bundle a cheap hockey puck microphone with an $8000 receiver. Dirac itself specifically recommends either of two miniDSP microphones, so why McIntosh didn’t include one of those is a mystery to me.

But I digress. Has anyone else run into this problem, and if so, how did you overcome it?

Or, if you have already successfully run the Dirac live room correction software with your MHT300, please tell me what you did, specifically. Thanks.
 
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Just picked one up and spent an unsuccessful morning yesterday and again today sorting out HDMI/CEC issues and Dirac. For Dirac, using the version from my Mac laptop (which I’ve used with Dynaudio Focus 30 setup, and with a previous AVR) I could not get a reading that wasn’t either tagged as imprecise, or had a low SNR. I ended up using the iOS application and finally got through all the measurements, although there were many repeat tries. Filter was calculated and I saved the project; however, I could not get the Dirac file to load into one of the four available slots on the 300. I switched back to the laptop, opened the project file and attempted to transfer the data again. The Dirac app stated the transfer could not be completed due to “invalid argument”, yet going to the MHT web page I could see a file in slot. But, it could not be selected and Dirac could not be turned on at all.

I’m not running a complex system. Apple TV 4K into HDMI 1 as my only source, HDMI out into my LG TV. I’ve had perfect operation using the Apple TV remote to control power and volume with past setups (to include an MX122) and right now I can still power on TV and Apple TV, and I have volume control using the Apple Remote, but the MHT300 will not turn on/off.

Lots of power cycling, checking cables, ensuring TV CEC is on, etc. and still no joy.
Anyone have guidance?
 
I also had problems getting the Dirac to work. I eventually got it working with 3 or 4 positions but it was a case of playing with the microphone sensitivity and (mostly) the volume. I do use a MiniDSP microphone though.
I also said a lot of bad words and yelled at the dog a lot.
 
I broke out a UMIK this mor I g and remeasured the room. Much better than the OEM hockey puck. However; still no luck with transferring the filter to the 300.
What is the firmware version in use with your unit?
 
Anyone have any luck with Dirac and the MHT300? I'm getting one tomorrow and really would like to use the Dirac software.
Thanks,
Johh
 
nerdorama said:
Anyone have any luck with Dirac and the MHT300? I'm getting one tomorrow and really would like to use the Dirac software.
Thanks,
Johh
Click to expand...
Sorry, I don't check this site much (my fault). In my case, I got the miniDSP UMIK-1 and it worked perfectly the very first time. I ran a long USB cable (about 40 feet) from my computer in another room and connected the mike, ran the process, and there were no error messages at all. Just success. Got all the measurements (about a dozen) and clicked on whatever I was supposed to click on to make the room correction filter. Sorry, this was several months ago and I just don't remember much, except that success was immediate. Toss that cheap POS McIntosh hockey puck mike in the trash! I did.
 
mds3017 said:
Just picked one up and spent an unsuccessful morning yesterday and again today sorting out HDMI/CEC issues and Dirac. For Dirac, using the version from my Mac laptop (which I’ve used with Dynaudio Focus 30 setup, and with a previous AVR) I could not get a reading that wasn’t either tagged as imprecise, or had a low SNR. I ended up using the iOS application and finally got through all the measurements, although there were many repeat tries. Filter was calculated and I saved the project; however, I could not get the Dirac file to load into one of the four available slots on the 300. I switched back to the laptop, opened the project file and attempted to transfer the data again. The Dirac app stated the transfer could not be completed due to “invalid argument”, yet going to the MHT web page I could see a file in slot. But, it could not be selected and Dirac could not be turned on at all.

I’m not running a complex system. Apple TV 4K into HDMI 1 as my only source, HDMI out into my LG TV. I’ve had perfect operation using the Apple TV remote to control power and volume with past setups (to include an MX122) and right now I can still power on TV and Apple TV, and I have volume control using the Apple Remote, but the MHT300 will not turn on/off.

Lots of power cycling, checking cables, ensuring TV CEC is on, etc. and still no joy.
Anyone have guidance?
Click to expand...
Wish I could be of more help, but as I told nerdorama below (above?), it's been several months - perhaps almost a year ago, so I don't remember the exact process of what I did. I DO recall that it wasn't a matter of just sending the saved filter to a file/slot in the MHT300. It was a specific process and when I did it correctly, the filter installed immediately. You might contact McIntosh tech support. They should be helpful - although in the fall of 2023, the tech I first spoke with wasn't really helpful at all - the MHT300 had just been released and I think he just didn't have any experience with it. His shoot-from-the-hip advice didn't pan out at all. Hopefully, he's more on top of things over a year later.

See my original post of 26 December 2023 to find out what I went through early on.

Update: It was that same tech who told me around last February-March, that I was trying to install the filter the wrong way. Can't remember his name, but he told me exactly how to do it (it's not straightforward like dragging and dropping a file, if I recall), and when I followed his instructions, it installed right away.

IT SHOULDN'T BE THIS DIFFICULT!!
 
Last edited:
IT SHOULDN'T BE THIS DIFFICULT!!
Click to expand...
As in so many things.


Is the eq file download to the MHT done via the network or a direct connection from the computer? It isn't clear to me from reading on the Mac and Dirac sites.
 
nerdorama said:
As in so many things.


Is the eq file download to the MHT done via the network or a direct connection from the computer? It isn't clear to me from reading on the Mac and Dirac sites.
Click to expand...
I did it from my computer, if I recall. Wish I could be absolutely certain, but it was almost a year ago. At my age (76), my memory isn't what it used to be. Also, my memory isn't what it used to be. :p

In the next few months, I plan on taking new measurements. I'll let you know whenever I do that.
 
Thanks. I'm not in a big hurry as I think things sound pretty great now but would like to experience what the DIRAC can do.
 
When we use to voice system professionally for entertainment venues, churches, meeting rooms, sports areanas, we always used 85 db slow weighting and flat from 20, to 20,000 hz. 85 db can be pretty loud as the noise generated will have 10 db peaks minimum so you should wear hearing protection while making the measurements. Most peoples homes noise levels are around 35 db with all appliances and HVAC systems turned off. If you do that you might get by having your system putting out 80 db. That can still be irritatingly loud. Average speakers to day might take 15 to 30 watts per channel or more to reach the necessary levels. I use 50 watts with my line arrays and 20 watts with my HT system per speaker. I imagine 10 watts would all you would need if you had the very efficient versions of Altec, Klipsch, JBL, Beta, Volpi, Frazier or EV speaker per channel. Speakers like B&W and Magico might take 100 watts. If you have Magnapans or early AR 3's or 3a's then you are going to need substantial power depending on the size of your room and room acoustics, If your a gentle listener get prepared to become assaulted.
 
twiiii said:
When we use to voice system professionally for entertainment venues, churches, meeting rooms, sports areanas, we always used 85 db slow weighting and flat from 20, to 20,000 hz. 85 db can be pretty loud as the noise generated will have 10 db peaks minimum so you should wear hearing protection while making the measurements. Most peoples homes noise levels are around 35 db with all appliances and HVAC systems turned off. If you do that you might get by having your system putting out 80 db. That can still be irritatingly loud. Average speakers to day might take 15 to 30 watts per channel or more to reach the necessary levels. I use 50 watts with my line arrays and 20 watts with my HT system per speaker. I imagine 10 watts would all you would need if you had the very efficient versions of Altec, Klipsch, JBL, Beta, Volpi, Frazier or EV speaker per channel. Speakers like B&W and Magico might take 100 watts. If you have Magnapans or early AR 3's or 3a's then you are going to need substantial power depending on the size of your room and room acoustics, If your a gentle listener get prepared to become assaulted.
Click to expand...
Thanks for info! When I did my measurements, I was two rooms away, connected by a 40-foot USB cable, so I wasn't in the room, but I nevertheless didn't have to do the measurements with the volume turned very far up, but I guess it could have been 80 dB or so. I was impressed with how simple and easy it was with a good mike (the UMIK-1), compared to the cheap POS that McIntosh included with the receiver, which never worked at all.
 
Mine will be here Monday. I still have the calibration mic from my MHT200, but I don’t know if that’s a better choice or is the new one?

When I get stuck (sounds like this is inevitable), who at McIntosh should I ask for? Years ago Chuck was the alpha geek, but I don’t know if he’s still there.

I’ll be calibrating B&W CM9’s, CM Center, and CM Sub, with some small B&W satellites in the back.

Any tips would really be appreciated!

Thanks!
Bob
 
Unless McIntosh has finally seen the light, the microphone packaged with your MHT300 will be a $10 POS hockey puck, which I’m still amazed and disgusted about. The UMIK-1 (which I recommend) that I bought worked perfectly right out of the box - more than I can say for the hockey puck, which never worked. The newest model (that I’m aware of) is the UMIK-2.

You’re gonna like the MHT300. I’m running mine into two pairs of Thiel CS3.7’s (F and R) and a Thiel MCS1 center, with a pair of SVS SB16-Ultra subs. All I have to say is “WOW!” I use Top Gun: Maverick as a demo disc, or - most of the time - just to amuse myself.
 
Another vote for the UMIK (sold by Minidsp, others?). No complaints about mine.

I love McIntosh, the equipment the company and the people, but some of the fringe/accessory products are just done better by companies that specialize. JMO.
 
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