Minor upgrade on my Heresey l???

[ccawker]

I just read a post that says you can "stuff"(which i dont believe) the cabs with insulation for better bass response....need info on this point.
Next how would i reinforce the cabs that dont take a carpenter to do as i see i can take the back off.

Please any and all responses welcome.


Sansui AU/TU 717

 

[Jirachi]

You shove a bunch of pillow stuffing (fiberfill/polyfill) in there basically. Works for lots of things and many sealed subs are filled with it. Not sure how much it will help on a Heresy as the cabinet is smallish already

 

[thevinoman]

I would use some good construction adhesive and a caulk gun to reinforce all of the joints, top/bottom, right/left. Try some fiberfill and see what you think. Easily removed.

 

[Grenadeslio]

If interested in other cheap tweaks adding additional binding posts for biamping is a pretty easy task, and the posts are cheap enough from Parts Express.

 

[moray james]

if you want to take advantage of the energy conversion of fibrous material you need to be aware of which materials perform that well and it which frequency bands they perform at because they vary widely. Typical polyester batting and other standard pillow stuffing materials do not convert much energy at low frequencies ie. below 100 Hz and that is why so few people report much success improving their bass output. If you keep adding stuffing matters just get worse because you are then only eating up box volume which is exactly what you do not want to do. One of the least expensive and better performing materials below 100 Hz is high density fiberglass like the 701 703 series by Dow Corning. High R value hone/construction fiberglass insulation is easy to find for little money and one you can experiment with to gage results. While not as effective as its high density brother it is probably your best least expensive option.
The energy conversion is as a result of friction. The woofer vibrates the material which results in the glass shard fibers rubbing against each other which results in friction which results in heat and there you go you have converted mechanical energy and turned it into heat. That's how it works in a nutshell or in your speaker box. Best applied to sealed speaker cabinets and not reflex types unless you like breathing fiberglass. Decades back fiberglass was the go to damping material in loudspeakers but it was pretty much dropped due to health concerns for other less harmful materials such as quilting and pillow batting and open cell foam which all perform the same task.

 

[ccawker]

I would use some good construction adhesive and a caulk gun to reinforce all of the joints, top/bottom, right/left. Try some fiberfill and see what you think. Easily removed.

what about some of that clear window sealer and a caulk gun

 

[moray james]

what about some of that clear window sealer and a caulk gun

all calking will do is to seal the cabinet of air leaks you can do that with some plain jane white wood glue foe a lot less money effort and time. You ca stiffen and brace with fir strapping 1x2qhich will actually be 3/4"x1 1/2" run a length up each side in the middle and a couple up the back on third centers and then tie the side to each other and the front to the back between the woofer and the mid horn you can attach to the back panel via wood screws. That will stiffen up the cabinet quite well for very little materials and effort/cost.