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Monolith table

My old 80s p mount table is starting to have some issues so I was going to get a new modern turntable. Nothing fancy but not an introductory table either.

I had my eye on the Orbit plus, but now the Monolith is looking pretty good too. I'd probably upgrade the cart to a 2M Red on either one. The Monolith would be a bit cheaper but I'm new and pretty ill-informed about the differences in quality and performance of these modern tables.

Would anybody like to offer some basic suggestions (tables or cartridges) to make my purchase decision a bit easier?

Thanks!
 
Taylorph said:
My old 80s p mount table is starting to have some issues so I was going to get a new modern turntable. Nothing fancy but not an introductory table either.

I had my eye on the Orbit plus, but now the Monolith is looking pretty good too. I'd probably upgrade the cart to a 2M Red on either one. The Monolith would be a bit cheaper but I'm new and pretty ill-informed about the differences in quality and performance of these modern tables.

Would anybody like to offer some basic suggestions (tables or cartridges) to make my purchase decision a bit easier?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you would be upgrading to the 2m Red get the Fluance RT83 than comes with it and also has the new better optical sensor speed control motor.

Though yeah, Monolith $180 plus $100 for 2M Red = $280, $70 less than RT83, however for $70 more you are getting a much better motor with the RT83 and will also have the option of later upgrading to the acrylic platter when Fluance makes it available after they are able to readily stock the RT84 and RT85. You also get the no up charge walnut finish option.
 
So some time has gone by on this thread with no updates but I enjoyed going through all of it. I've owned many turntables over the last almost 40 years, mainly over the last 15 years, and of course they're mainly vintage that need work of some sort. I think currently I have a JVC QL-F4 that has been my usual player and has been for quite some time. I also have a Pioneer PL-514 & PL-518 that need replacement feet, the covers buffed out (badly) or just replaced, and a Pioneer PL-55X that's been at my buddy's house for about 10 years now. (gonna steal my Shure V15 Type IV w/Jico SAS stylus from it) I've about decided to just sell off the 3 or 4 that I have knowing they all need work, parts, or something, and just get a new one and call it good. Maybe between the 3 or 4 I sell, it will put me in the $500 for new range and I'll use the Shure/Jico pair if their weight allows.

The Fluance and Teac look to be my bigger contenders so far. I've thought about the Pro-ject and Rega TT's as well but not fixated on them. There's something to be said for new gear.

And what's up with some only using 3 feet? Odd...
 
avguytx said:
So some time has gone by on this thread with no updates but I enjoyed going through all of it. I've owned many turntables over the last almost 40 years, mainly over the last 15 years, and of course they're mainly vintage that need work of some sort. I think currently I have a JVC QL-F4 that has been my usual player and has been for quite some time. I also have a Pioneer PL-514 & PL-518 that need replacement feet, the covers buffed out (badly) or just replaced, and a Pioneer PL-55X that's been at my buddy's house for about 10 years now. (gonna steal my Shure V15 Type IV w/Jico SAS stylus from it) I've about decided to just sell off the 3 or 4 that I have knowing they all need work, parts, or something, and just get a new one and call it good. Maybe between the 3 or 4 I sell, it will put me in the $500 for new range and I'll use the Shure/Jico pair if their weight allows.

The Fluance and Teac look to be my bigger contenders so far. I've thought about the Pro-ject and Rega TT's as well but not fixated on them. There's something to be said for new gear.

And what's up with some only using 3 feet? Odd...
Click to expand...

3 feet is easier to level and the external belt drive motor is where a back corner foot would go.

The new Fluance RT 82-85 with the optical sensor speed controlled motor have much better W&F and speed variation specs than the TEAC TN300/400. The TEACs are on par with the older RT 80-81 without the optical sensor.
For Pro-ject only the Carbon Debut or higher has good enough specs to compete with the Fluance RT 82-85. For Rega, only Planar 2 or higher. The Planar 1 lacks adjustable anti-skate and the tracking force adjustment uses an odd lever and is very limited.
 
sharkaminos said:
3 feet is easier to level and the external belt drive motor is where a back corner foot would go.

The new Fluance RT 82-85 with the optical sensor speed controlled motor have much better W&F and speed variation specs than the TEAC TN300/400. The TEACs are on par with the older RT 80-81 without the optical sensor.
For Pro-ject only the Carbon Debut or higher has good enough specs to compete with the Fluance RT 82-85. For Rega, only Planar 2 or higher. The Planar 1 lacks adjustable anti-skate and the tracking force adjustment uses an odd lever and is very limited.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you lean more towards the Fluance tables. I do like the looks of their gear.

hifitommy said:
1. detachable headshell is a BIG advantage for swapping/inspecting carts.

2. ortofon 2M Red is not that good. an AT95E for $49delivered is way better than it should be. my preference unless getting the 2M Blue which is very good!

3. Music Hall 1.5 would be great value on MY list.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj25Ibpq4ziAhWM2WQKHSTtBmgYABABGgJwag&ae=1&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2j5NnpqgGTTIqunrYfLOQ&sig=AOD64_1LflfUFhBifP6xTZxko5DAA_DekA&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiWxP7oq4ziAhXN854KHVkJAZEQwg96BAgKEAc&adurl=https://www.turntablelab.com/products/music-hall-mmf-1-5-turntable?variant=1030393004040&utm_campaign=gs-2019-04-04&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWW3v8PDHa6yVQ1p4icTN29PCePzrDtpdzljAtAMnACa3nU9HC1ENnhxoC3r0QAvD_BwE
Click to expand...

Seems like all of them will have their hits and misses. I don't really "need" a built-in preamp as both of my main preamps already have one; Carver C-1 BillD modded and new Onkyo P-3000R. I also lean towards wanting an acrylic platter already included so I'm not buying it later. And if the Ortofon Blue does the job, which I'm sure it will, then I don't have to mess with changing that out. I'd probably still like to compare it to the Shure/Jico setup though. Anymore, I don't get so overly worked up on every single detail in sound quality....sad to say but it's true. I have tinnitus and my upper HF limit is about 12k on a good day. Of course, I can hear the harmonic differences, etc., but my point of diminishing returns level is lower than most might be. lol

I just wish more of them had a cue lift at those price points. I should have bought the Onkyo CP-1050 a few years back when Onkyo still had them in the barn. I could have bought one at Rep Sample price which is stupid cheap. (still good friends with the Nat'l Sales Mgr)
 
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avguytx said:
Sounds like you lean more towards the Fluance tables. I do like the looks of their gear.
Click to expand...

I have the RT82 and it sounds great with the Schiit Mani. I will add the acrylic platter when Fluance gets it in stock. Once it is time to replace the OM10 stylus, I will upgrade to an OM20 to be almost or as good as a 2M Blue for less cost. The OM20 is the previous version of the 2M Blue, just as OM10 is the previous version of 2M Red. Or maybe an LP Gear house brand OM30 replacement to be on or close to the 2M Bronze level, or a Nagaoka MP-110 for a warmer sound.

"I just wish more of them had a cue lift at those price points."

Do you mean a cue lift at then end of play? The Fluance have auto stop. Do you really need it to lift off? The Denon DP-400/450 has lift off.
 
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sharkaminos said:
"I just wish more of them had a cue lift at those price points."

Do you mean a cue lift at then end of play? The Fluance have auto stop. Do you really need it to lift off? The Denon DP-400/450 has lift off.
Click to expand...

Maybe I should have said cue lever or cue arm...like most all older tables had and what U-turn sells as a $40 add on. Something other than just dropping the needle into play using the cue on the headshell.

Sure, auto lift is nice but not a necessity.
 
the Fluance RT84 ups the ante to $449 BUT---the w&f is much better and it has the acrylic platter. you can use your own phono pre and i recommend a clamp like the Michel which isn't that costly. the standard bayonet cartridge mount allows for easy cartridge changing and inspection and when finances allow, a Jelco made headshell is a great addition to the quality of sound due to its dual retaining pins, Litz wires, and adjustability of azimuth. an end of play stop is just as effective as an end of play lift, maybe better because it stops the motor. the fact that the stylus remains down is of no consequence.
 
avguytx said:
Maybe I should have said cue lever or cue arm...like most all older tables had and what U-turn sells as a $40 add on. Something other than just dropping the needle into play using the cue on the headshell.

Sure, auto lift is nice but not a necessity.
Click to expand...

What turntables don't include a cue lever included as standard besides the U-Turn Orbit? That is the only one that I know of where it is optional. Fluance all have a cue lever included.
 
hifitommy said:
the Fluance RT84 ups the ante to $449 BUT---the w&f is much better and it has the acrylic platter. you can use your own phono pre and i recommend a clamp like the Michel which isn't that costly. the standard bayonet cartridge mount allows for easy cartridge changing and inspection and when finances allow, a Jelco made headshell is a great addition to the quality of sound due to its dual retaining pins, Litz wires, and adjustability of azimuth. an end of play stop is just as effective as an end of play lift, maybe better because it stops the motor. the fact that the stylus remains down is of no consequence.
Click to expand...

If looking at the RT84 may as well get the RT85 for $50 more since the 2M Blue is valued at $100 more than the 2M Red. However both are currently out of stock.

I went with the RT82 because I can add the acrylic platter later for around $89 when Fluance gets it in stock. Then when it is time for a stylus replacement LP Gear OM30 replacement if I want 2M Blue to Bronze level or switch to Nagaoka MP-110 cartridge.
 
i just looked at the RT85 and the w&f is even better than the RT84 plus the extra value of the 2M Blue makes it a real winner. now i know what i will recommend to beginners that will last them a long time before upgrade time arrives. much better than the TEAC TN400 which has audible w&f plus a non-standard detachable headshell but is ok if gotten for a sweet price of closer to $200 than $30. it comes with an AT95e cartridge that sounds way better than it should though.
 
hifitommy said:
i just looked at the RT85 and the w&f is even better than the RT84 plus the extra value of the 2M Blue makes it a real winner. now i know what i will recommend to beginners that will last them a long time before upgrade time arrives. much better than the TEAC TN400 which has audible w&f plus a non-standard detachable headshell but is ok if gotten for a sweet price of closer to $200 than $30. it comes with an AT95e cartridge that sounds way better than it should though.
Click to expand...

The RT82 is also a great value for beginners at $300. I often recommend either RT82 or RT85.

I would'nt pay more than this $150 deal for a TEAC with the TN300SE. https://www.buydig.com/shop/product/TEACTN300SEMB/Teac-2-Speed-Analog-Belt-Drive-Turntable-with-USB-Digital-
Available in Black or Walnut with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top. Similar to the RT81, just no auto stop. As with most entry level belt drive turntables without an optical or electronic speed regulator, it is best to check the speed with a strobe or phone app after 10 hours and adjust as needed from underneath with a small screwdriver, then annually for optimum performance. Or get the RT82 and you don't have to ever have to do any of that.
 
I guess I could just wrap the plinth of either the PL-514 or PL-518 I have in ribbon mahogany that was left over from veneering my Belle clone speakers. That would look quite nice. Who knows...
 
avguytx said:
I guess I could just wrap the plinth of either the PL-514 or PL-518 I have in ribbon mahogany that was left over from veneering my Belle clone speakers. That would look quite nice. Who knows...
Click to expand...
Check out:
Oak veneered Pioneer Pl-516 project - https://www.reddit.com/r/vinyl/comments/bjr1ie/oak_veneered_pioneer_pl516_project/
Round 2 - Oak veneered Technics Sl-23 project - https://www.reddit.com/r/vinyl/comments/bm1k20/round_2_oak_veneered_technics_sl23_project/
 
sharkaminos said:
Check out:
Oak veneered Pioneer Pl-516 project - https://www.reddit.com/r/vinyl/comments/bjr1ie/oak_veneered_pioneer_pl516_project/
Round 2 - Oak veneered Technics Sl-23 project - https://www.reddit.com/r/vinyl/comments/bm1k20/round_2_oak_veneered_technics_sl23_project/
Click to expand...

Yep. Seen lots of those older tables people have veneered that were covered in old vinyl and really made them nice. I have about a half sheet of mahogany veneer left from when I built the Belles a year and a half ago and was saving it for something like this.

On another note, there's someone locally to me that has a Pro-ject Essentials II for sale for $75 but would probably take $40 to $50 for it. I thought about snagging it for the heck of it. They had replaced the original stylus on the Ortofon OM5E not long ago. I guess there's worse things I've spent that kind of money on.
 
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Frank Sol said:
Still running it stock... played maybe 7 LPs on it

For what I paid for it , it's a very good bargain -- Some of you may know how well I like the Technics SL-23 for the price vs SQ ratio

This table competes well with the SL23
Click to expand...


FWIW

passed this TT on to a young family member over the holiday weekend... I'm sure he'll be happy with it until the upgrade bug bites

also... in the end a proper working SL23 is a better TT in my opinion but I'm biased :D
 
I see the Monolith is now on sale for $170. This is off the new list price of $200, vs $250 before.
 
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Decisions, decisions. Still haven't bought a new player. I've been spending some free time rehabbing changers in a couple of my consoles. The Monolith is now $150 shipped and the Fluance RT-81 is now about $225 shipped. Like the looks of the RT-81 better but for my modest needs the Monolith will probably get my attention.

Any longer term issues come up from those that bought the Monolith, when this thread first started?

Thanks
Mark
 
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