• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

More Fisher 500 power supply chicanery...

GordonW

Speakerfixer
Subscriber
Word to the wise- if you get a Fisher 500 (this one was a 'C', BTW) that sounds "wimpy", and burns up the 270 to 470 ohm (depending on revision) 2 watt resistor from the center of the voltage doubler caps (connected to the junction between the two caps in the doubler) to the power supply cap running the front-end circuitry, it's the bottom cap in the voltage doubler, gone open-circuit.

It's a real puzzle... until you start measuring *AC* voltages. DC looked right (around 4 volts DC across a 270 ohm resistor, which ostensibly is only like 60 milliwatts or so)... but NOT SO, if you measure AC voltage across the resistor. IIRC, I was getting like 25 VOLTS AC... probably like 2.5+ watts CONTINUOUS across a 2 watt resistor, at idle- and even more when you cranked up the volume!

Tacked in a 220uf 250v cap across the bottom voltage doubler cap... the ripple went down to less than 2 volts AC... DC voltage went up to about 6V. NOW everything worked. I bit the bullet, and replaced BOTH doubler caps (220uf 250v caps on a little tag board under where the "top" voltage doubler cap used to go)... Ahhhh... NOW THAT'S the way it's supposed to sound! :thmbsp:

So, when people recommend replacing those voltage doubler caps... it's REALLY good advice!!

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Register to hide this ad
Best approach with these 500c-800c amps is to just replace all the caps including the power supply caps. My first 800c I used the SDS board. Second one I did with individual caps under the chassis. I STRONGLY recommend the SDS option. Much easier to figure it all out. John
 
Back
Top Bottom