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MQ-101 vs C26 tone controls

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I have been trying to understand the difference between using an MQ-101 or the bass control on my C-26 to get flat response down to 20 Hz out of my ML-1C speakers.
I have looked at Roger Russell's site and can not find all the details of the action of the EQ's. The specs on the site are lister as follows:
The MQ-101 has bass eq from 0db to +17db at 20 Hz
The C-26 has bass eq from -20db to +16db at 20 Hz
The only reason I can imagine that the 101 would be better or different from using the C-26 control is that perhaps the Q (or slope) is different. I could not find any specific info on this.

Roger included an explanation that seems to support this thought on his equalizers page:
"There are equalizers and equalizers. They aren't all the same. There are speaker equalizers that work with a speaker system to achieve a specific acoustic output. There are equalizers that compensate for different speaker locations in a room. There are equalizers that compensate for response peaks and dips due to room resonances. There are also program equalizers (tone controls) that adjust the frequency balance of program material. Each kind of equalizer is tailored to accomplish a specific task. Each covers a specific frequency range with a certain shape and amplitude. A bass control, for example, does not make a good speaker equalizer. It’s too broad and while it may correct one frequency range, it can also exaggerate another, resulting in different bass that still doesn't sound good."
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While writing the post I found these graphs - the yellow is the 101 and the blue is the C-26. This also supports my thought that the main difference between the two is the Q.
I may have answered my own question just by writing the post - LOL - I have typed too much to just delete the post and perhaps some of you will have further insights on the topic.
Is it obvious that I am needing to justify the dumping of some more money into the McIntosh void? I should buy an MQ-101, Right? - It's Necessary! Roger Russell says so!

Am I thinking about this correctly?
 
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I have neither, ... but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express ...

My opinion: The MQ101 is a nice looking piece, with the walnut cabinet it is an excellent aesthetic piece to finish off a vintage system. However, it is at best a mediocre way to EQ and get your speakers to match your room. There are much better methods, and some for less money (ex: MiniDSP w/ UMik).

If it’s just adjusting to taste and audio memory, a few dials an putting another piece of vintage analog gear in the signal path is fine and fun.
 
I’m no too experienced with this but I understand to sound better, or right, these speakers require the extra equalization of the 101. McIntosh wasn’t really known for their speakers in this era, quite frankly they weren’t the best sounding speakers of the day, in my opinion ( I’m a die hard mac fan too so I’m not trying to upset anyone). I think if you heard them equalized with the 101 and without the 101 you’d notice a big difference. This is on top of what you would normally equalize or not with your c26. Hope this helps.
 
I used an mq101-c28 combo on my ml1c's for a couple years and I found mq101 having a very subtle effect and apparently that's how it's supposed to work. Normally I'd keep the midrange flat and just one click on both the bottom and top end.

Recapping the ML1C's and getting rid of those awful made in Mexico temple caps now that made a huge difference. Post recap I found the top end didn't need that boost any more. Midrange was clearer but not fatiguing. It didn't change the bass any but I never thought the ML's needed much if any help in that area. If you think you'd like a bit more bottom end another pair of ML's would be the ticket imo. I ran a stacked pair for a while and boosting anything was too much of a good thing.
 
The 101 is strictly to voice the speaker to the room. There is a white paper on Roger Russells web site on how to effectively use the 101 low frequency control to match the speaker's in the room. After the 101 is adjusted. Then the tone controls on your C=26 will work as intended.

Yes the early Black caps used on the ML series speakers were terrible if not worse. So replace them. In fact replace all the caps. If you see any discolored resistors replace them, too. A pair of ML-1's powered by a MC 754 creates great sound. MC 502 is great for a smaller room, too. I preferred the MC 7100 myself. I was never to fond of the 2000 series of SS amps made with Autoformers. Maybe a little to laid back and other brands of speakers the woofers could take on a soft, fuzzy and overly warm mid bass sound.
 
I used an mq101-c28 combo on my ml1c's for a couple years and I found mq101 having a very subtle effect and apparently that's how it's supposed to work. Normally I'd keep the midrange flat and just one click on both the bottom and top end.

Recapping the ML1C's and getting rid of those awful made in Mexico temple caps now that made a huge difference. Post recap I found the top end didn't need that boost any more. Midrange was clearer but not fatiguing. It didn't change the bass any but I never thought the ML's needed much if any help in that area. If you think you'd like a bit more bottom end another pair of ML's would be the ticket imo. I ran a stacked pair for a while and boosting anything was too much of a good thing.
I have ordered the parts for the crossover recap a few months ago. Soon I will do the recap and post some pics and results.
 
An MQ102 will do the same thing as the MQ101 (for LF correction) at a fraction of the price. With a pair of ML2Cs owned by a friend, the MQ made a dramatic difference for LF response. Roger is right- EQs are not the same despite how their controls may be labeled.
 
thanks @62caddy
I would love to get a deal on a 101, it is a beautiful unit, but I may just go with a 102 first depending on what ebay has available.
 
One thing that really stands out in my memory of my 101 is the ease of bulb replacement. No tools needed other than an index finger and thumb to unscrew the 4 old bulbs and replace them. Total opposite of my c100 which in my case seemed to require every tool known to man
 
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