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My $20 Yamaha M-80 amp

vtomike

Super Member
I think you would call this a score. Cosmetic issues galore but it works great. Someone replaced the rca jacks with male rca wire. Missing one of the speaker terminals. Scratches all over and filled in with a black marker. What a dog but it sounds good.

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Another vtomike score! I'm glad I don't live near you and compete for your deals!! Oh wait, there are tons of dealers near me.:D
 
That's the poor man's Krell when that magic button is pushed. If you're going to run it in class A, lift it up a few inches and make sure there's nothing on top or underneath that generates heat. There is no fan and it runs super hot in class A so you have to take advantage of the chimney cooling system they used to prevent a meltdown. Oh, I'm sorry is it too soon to use that word for a Japanese amp?
 
Damn! Just looked at the pics. That makes my M-60 look like a poser. Sweet heat sinks. ROCK ON! Some sanding and a rattle can of black paint can make your top cover look like new. We did it all the time at Nak. I want one of those!
 
Damn! Just looked at the pics. That makes my M-60 look like a poser. Sweet heat sinks. ROCK ON! Some sanding and a rattle can of black paint can make your top cover look like new. We did it all the time at Nak. I want one of those!

I'm listening to my OHM Model I's by way of my M-60:smoke:

Stained Dark Black Walnut would make for a nice lid on that M-80.
 
Looks pretty good from here. A little nip, a little tuck, and she'll be good as new. Maybe get one of those laptop coolers and a USB wall plug power source and you'll be all set to run class A all the time.
 
...Maybe get one of those laptop coolers and a USB wall plug power source and you'll be all set to run class A all the time.

Have you actually done this with a big amp? The thought has occurred to me as my XL-280 gets toasty after pushing my RS-II's for a while. I'd like to hear a success story before I put down the bucks for the laptop cooler.

And to the OP: Well done. An excellent, almost unbelievable scroe!
 
That's the poor man's Krell when that magic button is pushed. If you're going to run it in class A, lift it up a few inches and make sure there's nothing on top or underneath that generates heat. There is no fan and it runs super hot in class A so you have to take advantage of the chimney cooling system they used to prevent a meltdown. Oh, I'm sorry is it too soon to use that word for a Japanese amp?

:lmao:


If you hadn't said anything, I probably would have completely missed that.
 
Have you actually done this with a big amp? The thought has occurred to me as my XL-280 gets toasty after pushing my RS-II's for a while. I'd like to hear a success story before I put down the bucks for the laptop cooler.

And to the OP: Well done. An excellent, almost unbelievable scroe!

Thanks for asking - Personally, no, it was just an ADD off the cuff suggestion. I have experimented with Whisper and Whisper XL fans (have a bunch of them) for cooling tube amps and power amps in racks and enclosed spaces, but that is more about getting cooling air moving in areas which tend to get stagnant.

If its true that most of these amps were designed with convection cooling, then improving or increasing air access and airflow rates can give a better reserve on thermal management. You'll note that many big amps have their cooling fins exposed. Many amps enclose their heat sinks but provide for fans to move air within the case.

In this amp, you can see there is a lot of venting on the cover, and hopefully similar venting on the bottom to allow air in. If the recommendation of getting the amp up by 1, 2, or 3 inches helps airflow passively, then an active air source, even at low speeds, properly situated and flowing into the air passages would be even better.

However, you never get something for nothing - if the active fans fail or stop, then the device may actually impede normal convection airflow, so that's a potential problem. You would also need additional space for the fan device and unobstructed air flow to it for it to work well. Finally, there is the issue of noise from the fan systems, and many laptop fan cooling systems use the same small (80 to 120mm) fans found commonly inside regular towers. These tend to spin at speeds which can generate noise or are run slower and quieter with some resulting loss of airflow. That's why I've always rather used larger fans with slower spin speeds to try to minimize the fan noise.

The other issue is can a laptop cooler tolerate the weight of an amp like this if simply placing the amp on top is the option? Or do you need to raise the amp anyway, and then attach the cooler but without weight bearing?

All these questions are part of any DIY type solution.
 
Damn! Just looked at the pics. That makes my M-60 look like a poser. Sweet heat sinks. ROCK ON! Some sanding and a rattle can of black paint can make your top cover look like new. We did it all the time at Nak. I want one of those!

Beadblasted and powdercoated gloss black top case looks much ,much , finer.Thats what I do with all my refurbs.
Front panel blemishes will fade away with..Birchwood Casey's flat black "Super Black" pen
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/birchwood-casey-super-black-touch-up-pen-flat.aspx?a=556070
There is some nasty application of sony glue in these models with corrosion almost guaranteed..

In Auto Class A mode, a properly ventilated unit runs pretty warm but as long as the top cabinet is unobstructed those big ass heatsinks take care of business --no problem!
 
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