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My Fisher Futura

The Standee ceramics are 10Ω and 15Ω resistors (should be a 10 and a 15 in one housing ) incorporated into the speaker circuit. R103A&B and R104A&B.

I see a bunch of Electrolytics that should be changed out soon. The earlier the better. Make it a Winter project. Any Ducati or frako electrolytics are gonna have rubber seals on the ends (axials) that have dried and pushed out, and have electrolyte that has crystalized or leaked on the rubber. These should be changed ASAP! The "ROE" types can stay a little bit longer.

On the boards. Leave the Green Rectangular EROFOIL caps be. They are good. The round grey or white are old Mallory lytics in a plastic case. Junk. If they are less than 5.0uf 50V you can use and equivalent Film cap to good effect. and with the film cap no worries about polarity. There may be some 1uf 70V in there. Use a 1uf 100v Cornell Dublier DME series or a Panasonic (can't remember the series) for these.
 
Thank you @larryderouin
I'll print out those notes and save them in the unit until I get a chance to organize a list. Really good input.

It's good news as well because it likely has an opportunity to sound even better with a little effort put in which I'll gladly do.

One more question please: It takes a few seconds of "warm up" time on power up before any sound is present. If I have it on FM, and switch it on, there's no signal for the first 2 or 3 seconds then the meter bounces over and it works great. Just wondering if that's by design or a symptom of potential issues. I don't see a relay in there nor is there a "click". Just a delay.
 
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One more question please: It takes a few seconds of "warm up" time on power up before any sound is present. If I have it on FM, and switch it on, there's no signal for the first 2 or 3 seconds then the meter bounces over and it works great. Just wondering if that's by design or a symptom of potential issues. I don't see a relay in there nor is there a "click". Just a delay.
There will be no FM signal for a few seconds because those Nuvistors in the front end are tubes that take a few seconds to warm up. Nothing to worry about.
 
There will be no FM signal for a few seconds because those Nuvistors in the front end are tubes that take a few seconds to warm up. Nothing to worry about.
Thanks! That's cool. (I love the FM sound.)
On AUX should it fire up immediately on power on then? I haven't connected a source that way yet.
 
Even tho it's Solid State it take 2-3 seconds for the voltages come up and settle down. This is normal. Relays and protection circuits came out predominately in the 70's. The 69T is a 1st Gen S.S. The next year Fisher stuffed modified standalone receivers in most of their consoles (except for the president which used an integrated amplifier and separate tuner until 1969.
 
Even tho it's Solid State it take 2-3 seconds for the voltages come up and settle down. This is normal. Relays and protection circuits came out predominately in the 70's. The 69T is a 1st Gen S.S. The next year Fisher stuffed modified standalone receivers in most of their consoles (except for the president which used an integrated amplifier and separate tuner until 1969.
Very interesting. Thanks.
 
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