My G-22000

[rstsgsas]

I have been going thru the power amp section of my Big G.I replaced all the caps except the big cans and upgraded some resistors to 1 watt.I also reveneered everything with real Rosewood veneer.I had to make 1 bottom end rail out of aluminum (it was missing when I got it).I also replaced all the speaker connections with gold ones from parts express.1 was missing the top when I got it.Put in bournes trimmers for bias and dc offset.She really sings now.I used a led light for the power amp by adding a resistor in series with it.I will go thru the Pre- amp section next.Anyone know where to get the umbilical cord connector .The ring on mine is cracked.Works but I would like to replace it.

 

[STP]

I have those same Parts Express gold speaker connectors on a pair of JBL's and they work great. Nice work! Gotta love the G-22's (secret Big G club handshake and passwords omitted...)

 

[LBPete]

The rosewood looks fantastic. Is it hard to work with? I just did one of mine in Mahogany. The cover for the tuner section is relatively easy to veneer but the end caps for the amps section were real buggers. Each end cap has 10 separate surfaces to cover.

Also, did you paint the metal trim? It looks good too.

- Pete

 

[rstsgsas]

Rosewood and paint

There was an earlier post on the veneer I bought.It actually was easier than I thought it would be.I had no trouble getting it on both end caps and the preamp top.The tricky part was the vents in the rear of the preamp.I used some needle files.I had to paint most of the internals of the amp.It had lots of surface rust.It also had lots of scratches on the lower square section.In the pic see the lower end piece on the amp at the floor.The pic that shows the speaker terminals .I actually made that out of aluminum.Lot of welding and sanding.I used body filler to smooth it out. So I had to paint the trim pieces.I used anodized bronze,which is a nice match for the original color.If I could just figure a way to lessen the scratches on top of the pre-amp face,it could be a showroom piece.Post some pics of your mohagany veneer job.Matching grain lines was troublesome on the endcaps.

 

[240sx4u]

If the face on the reciever is aluminum you could easily sand the scratches out and re-buff the face. You could likely get a pro polisher to do it for reasonable pricing. I used to have all the pro-polishing metal tools. I buffed out a s/s exhaust from a bike that had asphalt embedded in it. It came out very nicely.

Evan

 

[LBPete]

The fabricated rail looks great. In these pictures you can’t tell it from the original. As far as the top surface of the faceplate, there is not much you can do. The aluminum is anodized and there is no way to restore that finish without totally stripping it and anodizing it again. It can be done but it is expensive and you will loose all the lettering. I’ve see people that try to sand out scratches like that. You can get it smooth but the untreated aluminum will oxidize over time and look like crap.

I’m real curious about the paint you used. Can you give me the manufacturer and model? The Sansui color is pretty unique. I was thinking about having an autobody supply shop custom mixing automotive enamel to match the Sansui color. The paint used on the painted trim on the G-22 is very close if not the same color as the paint used on the metal grills for the X0X0 series. Those things get pretty scratched up.

Here are pictures of the mahogany case I posted in the DYI section. Front Rear

The tuner section is done in one continuous piece of wood. The end caps were covered in smaller strips stiched together. The color is a little off between the tuner and amp but that is the nature of natural wood.

- Pete

 

[rstsgsas]

Nice work on the Veneer job.

The paint is Rustoleum Anidized bronze #7754.I have used it on some 9090 db grills also.What kind of stain did you use?Do you have yours bolted together in your picture?What are the bolt sizes for that.The paint is slightly lighter than the original but close.I was thinking what if the top edge was clearcoated after redoing it.Would it still oxidize.The pre-amp is about to get an overhaul also.Someone really messed up the tone board connector and coresponding traces.It has some very intermitent connection problems.I can move the board alittle and all is fine for awhile.I am going to recap the power supply section and maybe some other parts also.

 

[nosirrah]

refinishing aluminum

Go see any general aviation place and ask the mechanics for a little alodine 1000, make sure he doesnt give you alodine 1200, apply the stuff with a Q tip just wetting the surface, don`t rub it off...allow it to set for a few minutes then rinse with clear water.
When it is dry then go ahead with the clear coat.
The alodine 1200 will stain the aluminum gold color.
It is a common pre-paint treatment for aircraft aluminum alloys, actually oxidizes the surface a bit in a controlled fashion, your clear coat will then seal the result.
Alodine is an oxidizer and any rags etc you use cannot go in a trash can with any petroleum distallants...best bet is to put the q tips etc in a zip lock prior to disposal, it is not a real strong chemical, won`t hurt you to get it on hands or clothes, wouldnt want it in my eye...
Casey :yes:

 

[LBPete]

This alodine stuff is interesting. Anodizing is a form of controlled oxidation. It sounds like this stuff does a similar chemical process. Clear coating will still be tricky. It will be tough to keep a clean edge beween the top refinished surface and the "brush" aluminum finish on the front of the face plate. Might want to try it first on something easier to replace than a G-22.

rstsgsas, I think the bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm. I'll measure them and confirm. I don't have the originals but I found some nice stainless steel cap screws that work great.

- Pete

 

[rstsgsas]

Thanks

I will hunt for some bolts.I have done a little research on the alodine.You are correct in it being very similar to anodizing.It says it is a controled oxidizing agent and can be colored.It prevents further oxidation and alows paint and other compounds to adhere to the aluminum.Aircraft use it for all the aluminum parts including the skins. I found where I can buy a quart inexpensively although they do not tell you how much shipping is.I think its considered a hazardous material.I am thinking seriously about getting some and trying on an sx-1250 faceplate I have that looks like someone fought it with an ax.Sand some scratches down and try it.would be worth the try anyway.The clearcoating can be done by masking carefully at the edge of the top bevel and the face.Those type edges make it near impossible to see any difference in levels.Several light coats of clearcoat would do it rather than 1 thick coat.I magine the possibilities if it is an alternative.Not for minor scratches but for pieces like mine that have too many to leave alone.I would not use it on the actual face but a top edge where damage is almost always there.Interesting .I get a vision of my Big G with that real wood veneer and a nice top of the faceplate shining and get chills.Cosmetics to match performance.OOOO gatta try it.

 

[LBPete]

I also spent a little time researching the alodine. It looks like to get best results you have to do some pretty through cleaning and surface prep. Also be very very careful not to get any of these products on surfaces you are not treating. In other words, don't dribble it down the face plate.

As far as a source for the stuff, try calling a couple of local auto body supply shops. They may carry it. Or you can get it from these people Aircraft Spruce

- Pete

 

[rstsgsas]

Bolts?

I have not been able to find metric bolts in that size.Please confirm when you get time.

 

[LBPete]

I was mistaken. The screws are 8mm with the common metric thread pitch for that diameter. I think it's 1.25 The length is 14mm. I have some nice stainless steel cap screws that will work great if you can't find anything locally. Drop me a PM if you want them.

- Pete

 

[shelby1420]

rstsgsas, nice work man, she looks wonderful!!!!