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My grandpa left me with a pair of AR3a speakers

Read up on “DC offset” if you buy a used vintage receiver. You’ll want to protect your grandfathers speakers. It’s an easy measurement with a fairly basic volt meter.
 
Two things that are not (I think) in the "Restoring the AR-3a guide". 1. If you have the oldest woofers with cloth surrounds, there is a new consensus on how to reseal them sold by Vintage-AR. 2. If your tweeters are no longer working (after you check and repair the potentiometers) there are people on AK and the Classic Speaker Pages who will repair them for you.
 
The OP might want to look at new Pro amplification as well.

The vintage stuff is going to need work. Pro equipment is less expensive in the 100 watts per channel range (or even more power), so it seems.
 
Wow thank you so much for all your responses! The more I read up on these speakers, the more I feel like I have something really irreplaceable. I’ll be picking up these speakers potentially soon and I will upload some photos of it. Hopefully it won’t need extensive repairs (fingers crossed).

So should I look for amplifiers after the initial inspection? I was thinking of starting Hi-Fi streaming using DACs then move to turntables after I save up some more money.
 
I use to power 3 or 4 AR-3a's with a MC 3500, some times 6 with two MC 3500. Put them in the Alligator pit, Orchestra Pit, pointed up to the audience. Then the dancers onstage either modern, Jazz, or Ballet could dance and the audience would swear there was an orchestra in the pit. My favorite way. of using AR-3 and 3a for home was using MC 275 hooked up in a 3 channel configuration with a MC 75 powering the center speaker. I always toned down the tweeters just a touch when I was younger back in the 70's . It was great sound in smaller rooms. I preferred more efficient speakers in larger rooms to keep the levels up. But AR bass was hard to beat until Mcintosh ML series came along. I prefer the AR's at ear height against a wall to get the best super low frequency reproduction. Yes the bass could get a boomy if you were not careful where you located your listening chair. You spread your speakers as far out as possible until you notice a diminishing of a well focused soloist in the center. This is why I have always preferred a center speaker with a stereo system so I can produce a wide stage of sound with out the center collapsing. It also helps other listeners sitting off axis to still appreciate soloists coming from the center location. AVR's are cheap because folks want all the latest bells and whistles for. Home theatre. But used in the 3.0 configuration with a Ar-2ax in the center and the other one placed above and behind your head facing up ward using one of the rear channels to add room reverberation can produce great exciting sound. Don't cut to many corners, your AR's deserve the best electronic and sources you can afford ..........
 
Well said,

I loved the AR3’s and 3a’s since I first heard the 3’s in the AR listening booth in Grand Central Station driven by the Dynaco Stereo 70 tube amp and then the AR amplifier (60 watts/channel at 8 ohms and 90 watts/channel @ 4 ohms) they were excellent.

unfortunately I think AR’s do not age well and corrosion of the level controls and rotting foam are a problem that they exhibit due to age. The upside to all this is they CAN be restored.

First of all, a full visual inspection is absolutely required to check for rotted surrounds, then the level controls need to be cleaned and finally the crossover network electronics need to be checked out.

remember these are acoustic suspension speakers and the sealing of the cabinet is really important.

I would suggest a high quality integrated amplifier with high current capability in the 60-80 watt per channel class.

good luck! You have a real treasure there, treat them well.:music:
 
I would go further and recommend the likes of a Kenwood Basic Amplifier/preamp combo, NAD c372 integrated amp, pro gear like a Yamaha p2100 or better, for sure, and such like would give you the ooomph you need to properly drive low impedance speakers such as yours. Most of my favourite speakers are 4 Ohm. I mainly use power and pre combinations because I know I’m giving the speakers the kind of power they crave.
 
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Thank you for all your comments! Here’s some more information I got about the speaker. Currently the Ar3a’s are combo’ed with Sansui 2000A preamp, and also has a turntable attached to it. Is the Sansui 2000A worth upgrading? What do you guys think?
 
That is a respected receiver. While people prefer higher wattage amps to drive these today (it is 39 wpc), if it worked for your grandfather that's where to start.
Check out the Sansui forum here, you'll find all kinds of info and experts on this receiver. AK member @ConradH has a private page on improving this receiver.

But that's for later. The only thing you really have to check before firing it up is for DC on the speaker outputs. That's simple. Power up, turn volume to zero and measure each speaker output with a voltmeter. It's discussed here: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/amplifier-distortion-dc-offset-and-you.5634/ You are looking for very little voltage or no voltage there. That thread discusses the fine details of DC offset. That too, is for later. For now, you are just making sure there's not speaker destroying DC before connecting things up for the first time.

Enjoy.

(Also since replacing capacitors is a popular treatment for old receivers note that Conrad one of the great experts on caps in AK says the factory caps in his measured fine. So another reason not to hurry with changes.)
 
While 100 watts per channel would be good, you may not need that if you listen at lower levels. I powered mine for quite a few years from a Heathkit AR-1500 receiver which was listed as 45 watts into 4 ohms.

If the woofers have foam surrounds, they may need replacement. I also replaced the tweeters with an upgraded model that was recommended for AR-3A upgrades. Also rebuilt the crossovers with new capacitors. If you have older models, watch out for the capacitors in the crossovers. Some are filled with PCBs and must be disposed of properly.

For protection using an unproven amplifier, they can be fused at 1 1/4 amps per AR literature.
 
The Sansui 2000 plays way above its rating. I’m sure of it. I’ve had a few of them, but never the 2000A. A 2000 was one of my early thrift store finds. The 2000X was my favourite. I was planning on keeping it, but after six months of looking, I still hadn’t found a suitable preamp that worked well with a friends amp, so I let him have it. They seem to drive most speakers well. Some even with much better systems, are hanging onto them because they just sound so good. I know if I find another one, I’ll pick it up for the right price.
 
Nice speakers to start out with WOW , your Grandfather just saved you thousands of dollars and years of time experimenting with speakers. These speakers could also be your first and last as they are fine speakers. Congratulations
 
@arumakojr, I don't think the Sansui 2000a warrants upgrading to use with AR3a speakers. Partly because of 35 watts into 8 ohm. I like mine, it's a good unit.
On the other hand the HeathKit 1500a @ 60 watts into 8 ohms doesn't need any improvement to run the AR3a. I like mine, very good unit. An excellent match for the AR3a. Both will pull the 4 ohm AR3a.

I like my AR3a also.
 
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