Listening to my KT-815 now after an (almost) complete recap, some jazz and it sounds gooood!
Mainly used Nichicons, but also Panasonic ECQs for the 1uF/50V 'lytics and some WIMA 1uF polys for bypassing the PS caps. Kemet .1uF caps are also bypassing some in the audio sections. Went with a lot of the suggestions from the TIC, but didn't increase all the values listed, nor to the extremes of some of the suggestions.
The bonus is I didn't fry anything while doing all the (de) soldering.
Unfortunately, there's always a downside...forgot to order 3 caps, 2 of which will upgrade the audio output. Doh! Also, the IF board doesn't have an access panel to get at its caps, so I couldn't do it either, though I have the caps for it. I really don't want to have to re-string the dial cord, so the question is:
How would I go about pulling the board without messing the tuning? I could loosen the set-screw on the cap shaft, but what are the odds I could get it back on in the same exact position? I've also thought about using a dremel and cutting an access panel in the section of the bottom that I'd need to get get an iron in there. The problem I see with that though is possible metal shards or dust going unnoticed and shorting the tuner out. Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
John
Mainly used Nichicons, but also Panasonic ECQs for the 1uF/50V 'lytics and some WIMA 1uF polys for bypassing the PS caps. Kemet .1uF caps are also bypassing some in the audio sections. Went with a lot of the suggestions from the TIC, but didn't increase all the values listed, nor to the extremes of some of the suggestions.The bonus is I didn't fry anything while doing all the (de) soldering.

Unfortunately, there's always a downside...forgot to order 3 caps, 2 of which will upgrade the audio output. Doh! Also, the IF board doesn't have an access panel to get at its caps, so I couldn't do it either, though I have the caps for it. I really don't want to have to re-string the dial cord, so the question is:
How would I go about pulling the board without messing the tuning? I could loosen the set-screw on the cap shaft, but what are the odds I could get it back on in the same exact position? I've also thought about using a dremel and cutting an access panel in the section of the bottom that I'd need to get get an iron in there. The problem I see with that though is possible metal shards or dust going unnoticed and shorting the tuner out. Any other thoughts?
Thanks,
John