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My Roberts R2R just blew a capacitor. Please help me find one.

Quick Cal

Quick Cal

Active Member
My neighbor just gave me his old audio gear that he says he bought new in Vietnam in 1969 and shipped it back home. It's been sitting in his basement for well over 50 years. It incudes this Roberts 1719, a Pioneer SX-700T receiver, and some Sansui SP-200 speakers. None of this is top of the line, blow the roof off. But it's all matched. But it all has issues,,,lol.

I've been playing the r2r for about a week. Other than the controls needing cleaned up it sounded good.
I was just listening to it and it just stopped. I thought it broke the tape. But it crapped a capacitor.
It had a bad clunking in the motor last week. I pulled it apart, put it back together and the clunking was gone? Go figure.

So I hope I can post these videos. (EDIT: Guess I can't post videos...) If you listen to Frank you can hear the clunk. But it stopped.
Is this thing worth saving? Can I get the parts? I'm no tech but I THINK I could change that capacitor hopefully.

I'm looking on eBay for a capacitor. I can't find an exact match. Mine is 2.0 uf 260wv AC. Can I use a 2.0 uf 450DC? I had one guy tell me ac dc doesn't matter in a capacitor?

Anyone have a proper capacitor?

Anyone have a manual for the Roberts 1719?


Please advise. Thanks.
 

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Bruno Primas said:
Something like this will work.

View attachment 3855848
Axial film, 630v. 2.2uf is more of a "standard" spec these days.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the quick reply.

Forgive my ignorance, and please don't be offended. Educate me please,,,lol.

So does it matter if it's ac or dc? I see a lot not marked like the one you posted?

Google says you can safely go 10% bigger on the 2.0-2.2 uf. But it's hard on the motors? Should I be concerned?

Thanks
 
There aren't AC and DC capacitors, per se, at least that's not how they are referred to. A polarized (intended for DC) capacitor will work for a few seconds then will likely spew its guts, like this one did.

You need a non-polarized capacitor, as it appears that's in the motor run circuit and has 120VAC running through it.
 
w3jn said:
There aren't AC and DC capacitors, per se, at least that's not how they are referred to. A polarized (intended for DC) capacitor will work for a few seconds then will likely spew its guts, like this one did.

You need a non-polarized capacitor, as it appears that's in the motor run circuit and has 120VAC running through it.
Click to expand...
Is that a motor start or run cap? Will a standard non-polar work? What should the DC rating be to be safe for a 260 WVAC-rated motor cap? Is 1.414 times okay?

Thanks!

:idea:
 
Don't know for sure if it's a start or run, but the function is the same - to provide a phase shift so the motor turns. I'd think 450V would be fine.

It seems ceiling fans take 2.5 uF/260VAC run capacitors, they're available cheaply on Amazon.
 
Richard P said:
I use these . . . easy to get and they work perfectly for motors;

Amazon.com: uxcell Ceiling Fan Capacitor CBB61 2uF 450V AC 2 Wires Metalized Polypropylene Film Capacitors 36.5x16x29.5mm for Water Pump Motor Generator, Pack of 2 : Industrial & Scientific

View attachment 3855928
Click to expand...
Richard P said:
I use these . . . easy to get and they work perfectly for motors;

Amazon.com: uxcell Ceiling Fan Capacitor CBB61 2uF 450V AC 2 Wires Metalized Polypropylene Film Capacitors 36.5x16x29.5mm for Water Pump Motor Generator, Pack of 2 : Industrial & Scientific

View attachment 3855928
Click to expand...
Hey Rich. Don't you know you can't put a square peg in a round hole,,,lol. Just kidding of course.

I saved those to my Amazon Shopping cart in case the other doesn't work out. Thanks for the link.

IMG_3681.jpeg
 
That version of the ceiling fan capacitor has a mounting lug that would attach where the current bracket mounts . . . I have also used zip-ties to secure them in a convenient spot. The one you ordered should work, though.

1791932315709.png
 
KentTeffeteller said:
You also need to give the motor some lubrication. There should be a wick for the top and bottom bearings present. You also need a replacement start capacitor as explained earlier.
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I'll look for the wick. I'm sure everything needs lubed. But it was playing perfect with out any starting issues until that cap blew.

Off to find the wick.
 
I didn't see any kind of place to oil the motor.

When I was messing with it erlier I looked at all the pivot points, like on the cams and everything. It all has nice looking SOFT grease on it. Imagine that. I did take a tooth pick and spread it around.
 
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