NOT the silver 
- conductive is BAAAAADDDDDD..... don't trust some counter person on commission...
edit: no power - fireworks are likely - a good solid short that will blow main rectifiers and maybe transformers before the fuse gives up the ghost - IT'S function is not to save the electronics, but rather to keep from burning down the house.
Squeeze it down, it WILL conduct. The stuff is used between CPU's and heat sinks, where electrical conductivity isn't a factor. Don't gamble.
I use a carbon paint to restore remote keypads - same idea, conductive particles in suspension... silver is a BETTER conductor than copper - during WWII, magnets for the Manhattan project were wound in silver wire because of the copper shortages and the amount needed. Figured they could put it to better use than sitting in a vault somewhere.....
I didn't expect you to get thermal compound so quickly.
The Ceramic stuff is what you need if you just don't get plain old thermal compound. In my opinion, the more expensive thermal compound is akin to Radio Shacks Deoxit kit, just an excuse to stick a vacuum into your wallet.
The PNP and NPN transistor cases are opposite polarity, connected to the big capacitors - lots of voltage and plenty of amps to do damage.
The white stuff is to fill the 0.001" air gaps between the transistor case, the mica and the heat sink.
We want to remove the heat without conducting electricity.
BUT
OTHER than the choice of thermal compound, everything else is spot on.
Make sure the same types (b to b, d to d) go into the same position, that was part of keeping track of where everything came from.
I would suggest doing an ohmmeter check to the heat sink from every transistor lead to look for shorts. There is a trick to that: start with verifying your heat sink connection with one ohmmeter lead by measuring with the other lead to the heat sink as well, then don't move probe #1, occasionally going back to the heat sink with probe #2 to make sure #1 hasn't lost it's connection.
In other words you want to avoid "good" readings that are happening only because probe #1 slipped and lost contact with the heat sink.
- conductive is BAAAAADDDDDD..... don't trust some counter person on commission...edit: no power - fireworks are likely - a good solid short that will blow main rectifiers and maybe transformers before the fuse gives up the ghost - IT'S function is not to save the electronics, but rather to keep from burning down the house.
Squeeze it down, it WILL conduct. The stuff is used between CPU's and heat sinks, where electrical conductivity isn't a factor. Don't gamble.
I use a carbon paint to restore remote keypads - same idea, conductive particles in suspension... silver is a BETTER conductor than copper - during WWII, magnets for the Manhattan project were wound in silver wire because of the copper shortages and the amount needed. Figured they could put it to better use than sitting in a vault somewhere.....
I didn't expect you to get thermal compound so quickly.
The Ceramic stuff is what you need if you just don't get plain old thermal compound. In my opinion, the more expensive thermal compound is akin to Radio Shacks Deoxit kit, just an excuse to stick a vacuum into your wallet.
The PNP and NPN transistor cases are opposite polarity, connected to the big capacitors - lots of voltage and plenty of amps to do damage.
markthefixer said:
The white stuff is to fill the 0.001" air gaps between the transistor case, the mica and the heat sink.
We want to remove the heat without conducting electricity.
BUT
OTHER than the choice of thermal compound, everything else is spot on.
Make sure the same types (b to b, d to d) go into the same position, that was part of keeping track of where everything came from.
I would suggest doing an ohmmeter check to the heat sink from every transistor lead to look for shorts. There is a trick to that: start with verifying your heat sink connection with one ohmmeter lead by measuring with the other lead to the heat sink as well, then don't move probe #1, occasionally going back to the heat sink with probe #2 to make sure #1 hasn't lost it's connection.
In other words you want to avoid "good" readings that are happening only because probe #1 slipped and lost contact with the heat sink.
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