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Nak RX-505 Memory switch

perryinva

perryinva

IS it vintage????
On the Nak RX-505 (& presumably others) there is a Memory switch that either stops or plays the tape when FFed or RWed at 0000. Mine does nothing in either position. I'll take it apart and check the switch, but just wondered if anyone else had run into this before. At least, of all the functions that I would rarely, if ever, use, this is the least used of all, and the only function that doesn't work!
 
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I have a 505 ill check it and post back later.I have a question for you when you press stop and stop only does your 505 make any noise?
 
When i set memory to play it will stop it at 000.then cue the tape.It works every time on mine.Either ff or rewinding it to 000.I have no idea what this function is for.There are so many i don't use on the 505.Its a very nice sounding deck:)
 
When I press Stop from any function , it just...stops..with a normal sounding click. No unusual noise. However, when I first got the deck, I HAD to lube all moving plastic parts internal, especially, the cam gear shaft, or there were all kinds of screeches & clunk backs. I used the pen teflon oiler from Radio Shack. The Memory function is just a convenient way to get back to the same spot. Most useful for recording different sources onto the same tape, where you want to check levels , and easily "start all over" at a spot on the tape. I just bought a second "low mileage" 505 off ebay, I'll be curious to test it out side by side. My long term plan is to use one machine to test belts and replace orange caps, etc, while still keeping one machine fully functional.
 
Thx for the info.I recently bought a 505 myself.I love it but i have a noise sometimes when i press stop.I thought it must be belts or idler tires.I bought some new. So i guess ill try opening it up and lubeing the internal parts.I read you need to have a stock drive belt or it messes up your wow and flutter.I got all mine off ebay so im not sure what to use.For now im going to leave my belts alone.Ive read there hard to replace on the 505 too.
 
2 drops of oil on the shaft of the white cam pulley will cure that noise. This is the big pulley the cam belt goes around. Marrs Comunications has a low W+F belt for the RX 505. They are on eBay.
 
As Nakdoc posted ( I still have to send you that extra idler tire), the belt kit is available from Marrs. The cam belt is actually super easy to replace, takes about 5 seconds once opened. The capstans belt is a little more involved, maybe an hour for the AR. Only the flip belt is a pita, takes about an extra hour, if you're doing the capstan. The idler tire is about impossible without the right tools, as you have to CAREFULLY remove the tiny metal "C" clips from the nylon posts, and I would really fear that I'd break a post and then you are SOL. You also have to remove the tape head pivot bar, which can change your alignment. Since the FF & RW on my current 505 is lightspeed fast, I can assume the idler is still in good shape. I did not change out the OEM belt for the current Marrs belt, because he annouced that he would have a less expensive (than ESL, which gets $50) exact OEM belt available shortly. Since I was literally in the midst of changing belts when this happened, I found out that not everyone on Naktalk was entralled with his "original" mechanism replacement belt. And because my original belt sounds great, and has no visual signs of distress, I cleaned the capstan flywheels and put the old belt back on. I can't stress enough how much easier it is to lube the shafts with the pen style teflon oiler (like $3) from RS.
 
Bingo, it was the switch. I worked it a few times vigorously, and the memory works. I'll have to give it a shot of contact cleaner & lube. Those slide switches are easy to shoot, but the pushbuttons appear to be sealed. Any hints on cleaning them? Btw, Terry, did you ever lube or check the pinch roller rocker pivots on yours? On both of my 505's the right hand one was extremely stiff or stuck and required considerable working/cleaning and lube to get it to pivot freely. The unit WILL work with only the left hand capstan/pinch roller working, but the W&F will be higher, and it puts a lot more stress on the head drop mechanism, as the right hand spring will have high tension against the slide bar. This can also cause stop button noise. They should both easily pivot.
 
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