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Need an easy project? Simple & sweet passive pre

As Nate said, you need an input selector switch ahead of the series resistors. Since you have only two sources, you can use a DPDT switch. Attached schematic might be helpful.

Depending on the position of the switch lever, the center terminals of the DPDT switch will be connected to the L&R of one source, or L&R of the other source.

Build it all in one enclosure.

Thanks Ashok,
I wasn't very clear with my question. I am using the tube amp for switching, this is no trouble.
When I switch from phono to CD to tape, the input level from the CD is loudest, followed by the tape and then phono.
The phono stage seems to ok, as the sound stops when I turn the volume down. The tape has some sound at min. volume and the CD is bordeline loud at min. volume.

I need to make 2 of these pre's. One for tape, other for CD.

Can I mount them in one enclosure (for presentation and coveinience) without ground problems?

It may be a simple question, but I have had trouble with ground loops. I am also running a SS amp from the tube amp - took a bit to get it not humming.

I reckon that the 2 input switcher would be great for running a second tape deck. Thanks for that

Danny
 
The paint is really glarpy (good word, huh?) and takes forever to dry. It's tricky to get an even coat.

I've gotten great results when the humidity was low. Unfortunately it took me forever to make that connection. I've been using the new Krylon semi-flats w/ the bullet-shaped cap more & more. At Wally-World they are under $3 per can and come in an good selection of colors. Still, when hammertone comes out right it looks great and is very durable.
 
I had tried a passive pre before and it seemed to suck the life out of the music.

I then went to a simple two tube pre I found in an old Glass Audio article and have been very happy.

I'd like to try the passive pre again. Is there a trick to keeping the life in the music?

Just some thoughts here about tone issues that could arise from using a passive unbuffered level controller like this with gear that might not have really great buffering built in:

Is there a trick to keeping the life in the music? Yes. the trick is impedance matching (for tone and noise levels) and presenting some type of buffer so the source and destination devices can't adversely affect each other's performance (also for tone and noise levels).

If that isn't taken into account (using transformers or maybe something else in a fully passive design) then you have to hope that your source gear and power amp are well buffered at their relevant connectors.

This is why this thread's volume attenutator project (I wouldn't call it a preamp, it's not amplifying anything :-), while ridiculously easy and certainly a purist approach, may actually be lacking a couple of buffering circuits.

Without buffering the unit might perform just great with some gear and be very lifeless with (hopefully rarely) other gear.

The result of bad impedance matching and/or gear interacting incorrectly with each other tends to be lifeless unmusical sound as perceived by our ears, and in some cases dramatically increased hiss and even loss of signal quality (increased distortion) and level - it all depends on the other gear in your chain and how well it works with each other with only a pot/resistor between the two pieces.

There are certainly some very effective devices out there that are, while more complex than yours, similarly designed without true input and output buffers, and I have a feeling that in many cases this thread's volume attenuator would sound just great!

For further research to those involved, there are some inexpensive semi-pro-audio devices for use in recording that do the same thing, although in most cases with a slightly different purpose in mind, that you can buy for something crazy like $70 or $80 bucks. One of the better while still inexpensive fully passive level attenuators/monitor switchers is by SMPro and I recommend it to this thread's readers as a research project to see if there are useful things it contains that you might want to add to your own.

I haven't looked inside one for a long time though and fully admit that it might just be a simple pot and resistor and switching system without buffers, just like yours. However definitely would be worth checking out since electrically speaking it does exactly the same thing in the same places in the circuit that your box does, just with different switching options (and in fact could be purchased and used exactly how you're using your DIY level controller/switcher, although obviously it wouldn't be DIY any longer so not nearly as fun LoL)

I have used the SMPro box though for passive control of multiple amplifiers/speakers from my mixing board in my recording studio with very good results.

Hopefully that's a little bit of info that might be helpful to those curious about this stuff.

By the way, great work on the project, I love the look and way it works, I love the purist attitude and inexpensive plus simple build.

Very cool!

I'm just trying to add a bit of info for those curious. Maybe looking at the SMPro box or similar will result in some further ideas?
 
Ta da !!

And now, the anxiously awaited release of the Uber-cool channel switching blind comparison passive preamp 2009©®Ω™!!
runs on 12 volt, the button on the 25 foot cord selects A or B, volume pots for each channel, coaxial or banana plug inputs/outputs.
Id show ya the insides, but then Id have to kill ya.
 

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And now, the anxiously awaited release of the Uber-cool channel switching blind comparison passive preamp 2009©®Ω™!!
runs on 12 volt, the button on the 25 foot cord selects A or B, volume pots for each channel, coaxial or banana plug inputs/outputs.
Id show ya the insides, but then Id have to kill ya.

LoL :-)
 
I think I'll try one of these guys. Anyone want to advise me on the optimum resistor value for feeding 25k amp inputs?
 
Well, I think I got it worked out.

I must have, 'cos it works. Meet my "passive pre amp". Controls 4 inputs with 3 attenuated outputs (one is a switch circut).

This is a great little circut. Thanks to all who made it available(Redboy, Ashok). :thmbsp: I'm very happy.

Only problem is when I have 2 decks connected, it seems to muddy the water. Ok if I just have the Technics deck conected, only happens when I connect the Pioneer CT-F6161. I have yet to try connecting a ground lead and double check the wiring.

Not too happy with the cover, I think a remake is in order - black this time.

I went the cheap option. I thought I'd try it this way before lashing out on some expensive pots. I'm not really sure if dear ones are needed in my case, as there is no noticable reduction in sound quality. I was a bit hesitant, as my 100K pots tested at 95 and 91 for 2 of the and the third was 88 and 89 ohms. the last one was most out of spec, but also the most balanced. I cant notice it in the sound. All up total was AU$17.94.

I can now change sources without adjusting the amp volume :yes:

Pic 1: Peliminary test. All ok, except the tape thing. No biggie at this point. Wiring is a bit sloppy, soldering is good. Good thing its getting covered.
2: RCA layout. I went for 9/16 centres vertical, 3/4 for horozontal, each set is 1.5" apart.
3: Cover and aluminium front strip installed, awaiting labelling.
4: I cheated with the stoppers and just glued them on.
5: It nearly looks the part and sounds good.

Just a small note, I think this thing can be called a "pre-amp", as it goes before the amp. It dosn't amplify anything, thats the amps job, hence the "pre".
I have a reverb amp that suffers a similar mis-representation. It dosn't amplify the signal either, just adds and amplifies the reverb effect.

Thanks again to all resposible!
Danny.
 
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Twisted Wire?

I'm gathering parts for this. I see Redboy has used twisted pair and discrete copper wire (ie, not twisted) for his iterations of this passive.

Which would be preferred?
 
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