Need help figuring out how I screwed up playback on CT-F1000

[capn]

I've managed to screw up the playback on my CT-F1000 and I'm looking for insight as to what is wrong and how to fix it.

Symptom: Press play, head engages, but right-hand tape spindle doesn't turn causing tape to bunch up.

I've determined that the idler wheel isn't quite engaging between the drive and the spindle, which is why the spindle isn't turning. There is a new roller on that idler from the kit I got from Joe, so the problem "shouldn't" be a worn out roller.

I also didn't "think" that I stretched the spring on that idler assembly when I removed it to replace the roller on the idler. For sure the spring is not visibly sprung. The only thing I can imagine that I may have done to perhaps slightly increase its length would be to ever so slightly increase the "final bend" in the hook portion of the spring that attaches to the idler although it wouldn't appear to be distorted to the naked eye.

If I fool the deck into thinking there is a tape inserted and then press play, I can manually get the idler to engage the spindle by slightly pushing upwards on the guide portion of the idler assembly that is visible in the hole in the plate on the front of the transport (see picture).

This leads me to conclude that indeed the spring is not applying enough force assuming it is only the force of the spring that is supposed to engage the idler and not some force that "should" be exerted on the guide from the transport plate moving upwards when the heads are engaged.

Attached is a picture of the front of my transport showing the idler assembly guide sticking through the hole. I'd appreciate it if you experts out there would take a look at that photo and tell me if that looks like the way it is supposed to look.

I'd also appreciate feedback regarding
a) what it is that is supposed to force that idler wheel to engage (e.g. is it only the spring or something else)?
b) what you would advise me to do to fix the problem.

Thanks in advance.

 

[capn]

Ok, after examining the whole playback idler assembly engagement process more closely, I concluded that indeed the operation depends upon the spring providing enough tension to engage the idler between the drive spindle and the motor drive. I "could" have cut a couple/few of the winds of the spring away (thereby shortening the spring) to increase the tension, but I decided not to do that (for the time being).

What I did instead was to apply three layers of increasing diameter heat shrink tubing to what I'm calling the idler guide in the picture I included in the original post. This causes the bottom side of the hole in the front plate of the transport to push the idler guide upwards ever so slightly (during "play") which physically forces the idler to make contact with the drive spindle and the motor drive. It's not a "rigid" forcing since there is some give in the three layers of heat shrink tubing. In other words, the three layers of heat shrink tubing has some spring-like characteristics albeit not identical to that of the primary spring.

So far, this "fix" has worked and the playback function of the unit has worked without a hiccup. Time will tell how robust of a solution this proves to be. I hope my father (may he rest in peace), who was a master at coming up with working "rigged" mechanical solutions of all types, would be proud.

 

[tapetech]

Your new idler tire may be the wrong diameter or you have re-assembled the mechanism incorrectly. I have repaired dozen of those and never have had to tighten that spring or resort to the "hack" you have now done. I doubt that will last long.

 

[capn]

Your new idler tire may be the wrong diameter or you have re-assembled the mechanism incorrectly. I have repaired dozen of those and never have had to tighten that spring or resort to the "hack" you have now done. I doubt that will last long.

Yeah, maybe. I received the idler tire from WJOE radio. It was a bitch to get the old one off, but the one he gave me "appears" to fit.

I don't know how I could have installed that idler arm incorrectly (seems to be only one way it could be installed and work at all), but maybe so. Let me ask you this, does it look "right" in the picture I posted so far as that idler arm/guide showing up like it does in the hole in the front plate?

 

[capn]

Eight months later, my "hack" is still working. I play the unit for 45-90 minutes at least once a week every week since I made the repair. Normally, I wouldn't have done so, but in light of the feedback, I'm curious to see how well and for how long it performs.

 

[capn]

3+ years later and my "hack" is still working. CTF-1000 still plays like a champ.

 

[Oldskoolfan]

3+ years later and my "hack" is still working. CTF-1000 still plays like a champ.

Any chance you can get a picture of the fix? I got the same problem.