Need help identifying today’s find.

[Heresy76]

I found these speakers in a junk shop for $20 today. There is either an m or w on them. I suspect M because of the model number. One of the woofers needs to be refoamed and the other was recently replaced with a cheap radio shack 8 ohm. I have some others at home so I took a chance. The one with the bad woofer shockingly sounds very good. The one with the replaced woofer was replaced with the wrong replacement and it is the only channel that works. Im not completely sure if it is wired in parallel, series or combination I need to find a spec sheet to see wiring and speaker imp. Thanks

 

[swechsler]

These have the hallmarks of a "house brand" speaker; that is, a speaker designed specifically to be sold by a store chain. Not always a bad thing; you'd have to make the decision based on the sound, although the selection of drivers used doesn't look all that impressive. I do have to say, however, that the veneer looks nice, although I don't really care for the grilles (it's actually surprising that they're still intact after all these years; foam usually deteriorates by this age).

They should be wired so that each speaker has one terminal running to the common terminal on the cabinet (usually the black one), and the other terminal going to the appropriate lead on the crossover. It's kind of hard to tell by your pictures what's what, but if we can get some clear pics of the crossover (including how the individual components are wired) we can probably figure it out. The drivers would never have been connected in series originally. I'm having trouble parsing this section of your post:

The one with the bad woofer shockingly sounds very good. The one with the replaced woofer was replaced with the wrong replacement and it is the only channel that works. I​

If the one with the replaced woofer is the only channel that works, how do you know how the other one sounds?

At any rate, if one speaker appears to have all drivers working, we can use that as a starting point to infer correct crossover and driver connections. With a simple crossover like these have, the system impedance will likely be the same as whatever is stamped on the driver magnets.

 

[goodolpg]

The logo/badge has been asked about before, and just like before I can't remember what they are.

 

[Heresy76]

The

These have the hallmarks of a "house brand" speaker; that is, a speaker designed specifically to be sold by a store chain. Not always a bad thing; you'd have to make the decision based on the sound, although the selection of drivers used doesn't look all that impressive. I do have to say, however, that the veneer looks nice, although I don't really care for the grilles (it's actually surprising that they're still intact after all these years; foam usually deteriorates by this age).

They should be wired so that each speaker has one terminal running to the common terminal on the cabinet (usually the black one), and the other terminal going to the appropriate lead on the crossover. It's kind of hard to tell by your pictures what's what, but if we can get some clear pics of the crossover (including how the individual components are wired) we can probably figure it out. The drivers would never have been connected in series originally. I'm having trouble parsing this section of your post:

The one with the bad woofer shockingly sounds very good. The one with the replaced woofer was replaced with the wrong replacement and it is the only channel that works. I​

If the one with the replaced woofer is the only channel that works, how do you know how the other one sounds?

At any rate, if one speaker appears to have all drivers working, we can use that as a starting point to infer correct crossover and driver connections. With a simple crossover like these have, the system impedance will likely be the same as whatever is stamped on the driver magnets.

one with the torn woofer, right channel, sounds good at low volumes. All channels are functional The crossover seems to separate each speakers frequency well. Better than most late 70s 80s jvc KENWOOD technics etc. the woofer is much louder and clearer. Almost like it is 4 or 6 ohms. Also has a much larger driver magnet.
The wiring is the com from the input to the woofer and on down the line . Everything looks good. Nothing on the first channels that I could identify. Tweeter says westwell 8 ohms. The left one has corrosion. Could that be the speaker breaking the circuit?

 

[Heresy76]

The logo/badge has been asked about before, and just like before I can't remember what they are.

The logo/badge has been asked about before, and just like before I can't remember what they are.

 

[Heresy76]

Also I have 2 4 ohm woofers that are the same. They would be the only “like” 10” that I have. If I have an older 4 ohm reciever would this work?

 

[swechsler]

OK, that's not series wiring, it's just point to point. Electrically they're connected in parallel.

If the woofer is being run wide open (that is, the wires from the woofer go directly to the terminals on the back of the cabinet) then you can replace it with a 4Ω woofer. Or, if it runs straight through the crossover with no capacitors or chokes (coils) in between the crossover's input and output, then it will be fine. If not, the crossover values will change depending on the impedance of the woofer, and it will not cross over at the correct frequency.

However, matching output levels may be difficult. Without knowing the specs of each driver, it's a crapshoot.

 

[Heresy76]

OK, that's not series wiring, it's just point to point. Electrically they're connected in parallel.

If the woofer is being run wide open (that is, the wires from the woofer go directly to the terminals on the back of the cabinet) then you can replace it with a 4Ω woofer. Or, if it runs straight through the crossover with no capacitors or chokes (coils) in between the crossover's input and output, then it will be fine. If not, the crossover values will change depending on the impedance of the woofer, and it will not cross over at the correct frequency.

However, matching output levels may be difficult. Without knowing the specs of each driver, it's a crapshoot.

OK so… The COM goes from the input of the speaker to the woofer the positive goes from the input of the speaker to the small side of the Crossover where are my middle finger is. The tweeter range positive is the small blue capacitor and also the midrange the larger one. It
Looks like a small red coil is directly wired to the large red coil which should be direct wiring of the woofer. Am I correct? If so what are you first said, the four ohm woofer is safe this seems to be the case. Thank you so much for your help

 

[Heresy76]

OK so… The COM goes from the input of the speaker to the woofer the positive goes from the input of the speaker to the small side of the Crossover where are my middle finger is. The tweeter range positive is the small blue capacitor and also the midrange the larger one. It
Looks like a small red coil is directly wired to the large red coil which should be direct wiring of the woofer. Am I correct? If so what are you first said, the four ohm woofer is safe this seems to be the case. Thank you so much for your help

T

OK, that's not series wiring, it's just point to point. Electrically they're connected in parallel.

If the woofer is being run wide open (that is, the wires from the woofer go directly to the terminals on the back of the cabinet) then you can replace it with a 4Ω woofer. Or, if it runs straight through the crossover with no capacitors or chokes (coils) in between the crossover's input and output, then it will be fine. If not, the crossover values will change depending on the impedance of the woofer, and it will not cross over at the correct frequency.

However, matching output levels may be difficult. Without knowing the specs of each driver, it's a crapshoot.

urns out you were correct. After changing out and upgrading the mid and.tweeter in both speakers, I added a 10 in kicker and tried it next to my the Klipsch with a Yamaha rx-v1 and wow…. They handled all 150 watts a channel at about 60%. Crystal clear and the baffles tighten up the bass nicely. Just needed a little help on the high end so I added an external high frequency tweeter and sealed it up real tight. They are basically a box inside a cabinet so they are solid. With the kicker driver they weigh a ton tho. Took a lot of work but worth it. Just need to trim out the woofer and custom grill on the mid. They are the closest budget speaker so far that have paired nicely with the heresys and 2 powered subs. Shocking, quite noticeably better than my infinity kappas bi-amped. Thanks again! Which style grille cover? Foam, none or custom