New House Wiring

[rmnewhouse]

Just started my new house, framing to be complete in 4 to 5 weeks. So I have a lot of research to do on wiring for the following:
1) Surround Sound system in 1 room using Yamaha RX-V1800 7.1 home theater receiver and in wall & ceiling speakers(maybe Klipsch).
2). Set up a audio system in 5 rooms of the house for music. Using a Yamaha RX-497 stereo receiver and ceiling speakers(again klipsch).
With the music I want to control by zones(4 zones) and the volume in each room. No IR devices just be able to select a zone(at 1 location) for music. The longest distance for speakers will most likely be 80' so 14awg should do the trick.

I've done wiring for computer networks(40 yrs working in IT) but my first time at doing this, so I'm looking for anyone who can assist me.

 

[rmnewhouse]

I should have posed a couple of questions.
Using a speaker selector for the different rooms, looking at a audioplex MS-10
to control the audio to each room then the audioplex VC200 to control the volume, choosing a configuation just like flipping a coin, looking for some information on different types available and does it really make a difference.

As for the speaker wire, again I have looked at several articles on what brands will give you the best audio. Sound King looks good on paper, the longest distances is going to be about 70 t0 80 feet, so I think 14awg should work fine, looking at some of the forums I see there are several of you that could give me some good feedback on Sound King or if there is something that is just as good and maybe cheaper, I'm looking at about 750' of wire.

So if anyone came give me so direction on the configuration let me know.

 

[Robie]

Perhaps in your plan already and not really responsive to your question, but based on what I've read/heard, audio sounds better powered by a dedicated electrical circuit (with no household motors on the audio circuit). "Hospital grade outlets" are also supposed to help too but can be expensive.

To a non-engineer (me) it, seems logical that isolated power will make a difference in how quiet the system will be.

I've also noticed a benefit when speaker wire crosses other wires in close proximity at right angles. Minimizes interference.

Nice to be able to design exactly what you want rather than what the former owner left for you.

Good luck!

 

[RayW]

Check this guy out:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-843

It might fill all your distributed system needs and it includes speakers.

Ray

 

[wa2ise]

For speaker wiring that is to be strung thru the walls and ceilings, the building inspectors may not like some kinds of wire. But if you use romex cable designed for electricity and designed to be inside walls and ceilings, that should take care of that problem. Use electrical outlet boxes of the sort used for house power wiring.

For wiring that is to supply power to the audio room, consider using AC (BX) cable. This wire has an armor shield and the two power carrying wires inside form a twisted pair. That should provide electrostatic and electromagnetic shielding to keep hum down. BX cable looks a little like twisted pair balanced and shielded microphone on steroids.

 

[westend]

I've used 16 ga. in wall for most home theater installations. Unless you plan on powering big subs (usually powered with their own dedicated wire systems) a 16 ga. , jacketed prewire like this should be more than enough for ceiling or wall mounted speakers. Ray W's link to the class D distribution amp seems appropriate. A step up in quality and price would be Niles or similar distribution systems. For home audio wiring, it always seeemed like a balancing act, IMO. You want to put in even a little more than what is anticipated but don't make it too complicated. Remember, it's a lot easier to run an extra wire or box, even if they aren't used, when the studs are exposed, than later.
I've seen $x0,000 audio systems turned to a radio station and distributed to each room. Seemed like a waste of money as you could buy an entire high-end system for each room with the $$$$ spent.
Good luck with your project.

 

[edlipman]

House Wiring

Hey:
While wiring the house for the speakers figure out where the speakers sre to be and where the equipment will be. Run dedicated power wires directly from the breaker panel to the equpiment location and to the sub woofer location. Make sure that the power wires come from the same side of the line.
Make all phone , cable and antenna wiring go to a cabinet in a utility room and then to each location desired in the house. Use CAT 5 wire for all the phone and computer lines. This way there will be less confusion about where the wires go , and it will be easier to trouble shoot for problems.
Go to www.parts-express.com for CAT 5 wire and the cabinets.
A telephone installer may be willing to give you enough CAT 5 to wire the house and maybe some help , try asking one you see.
Hope this helps
Ed

 

[Glen B]

For wiring that is to supply power to the audio room, consider using AC (BX) cable. This wire has an armor shield and the two power carrying wires inside form a twisted pair. That should provide electrostatic and electromagnetic shielding to keep hum down.

Agreed. :thmbsp: In my installation though I've used individual THHN/THWN conductors in EMT.

"Hospital grade outlets" are also supposed to help too but can be expensive.

For home audio use, commercial/industrial/specification grade outlets will perform just as well as hospital grade outlets (tighter grip and more solid construction than residential grade) at somewhat lower cost. In fact, throughout my home I've installed only commercial grade outlets and wall switches. They're just more sturdy.

 

[70salesguy]

Any speaker wire placed in a wall should be UL rated. As an example, there is a vendor on eBay that sells UL rated Monster cable by the box/reel at very reasonable prices.

Have been told by a reputable source that if you ever had a fire in your home and the investigator finds non UL rated wire installed, even if it was not the cause of the fire, the claim can be denied.

When I built my new home this last year, I was sure to use wire rated for in-wall installation.

 

[westend]

Any speaker wire placed in a wall should be UL rated. As an example, there is a vendor on eBay that sells UL rated Monster cable by the box/reel at very reasonable prices.

Have been told by a reputable source that if you ever had a fire in your home and the investigator finds non UL rated wire installed, even if it was not the cause of the fire, the claim can be denied.

When I built my new home this last year, I was sure to use wire rated for in-wall installation.

Good advice about using plenum grade wire to defer any future problems. I choose not to use any Monster products for a variety of personal reasons but that doesn't mean their product is bad. Or I'm right for that matter. I just don't need to pick the lesser of that evil.

 

[vinyldavid]

Ya know, if all your music is digital, why not make a wi-fi network, get the Sonos system (Stereophile review:http://www.stereophile.com/budgetcomponents/1006sonos/index.html) and just do it that way...

Might cost some $$$, though, depending on all the options that you want (# of controllers, music, and more)

BUT it is Stereophile recommended, and if you don't want that amo, just use the ZP80 and get the amp of your choice.

 

[Super866]

By day I am a professional installer for a company that does Custom home theaters, automation, security etc etc etc. I am doing a side job this weekend and went to home depot earlier today to see what they carry in the way of speaker wire since its easier than ordering online. They have a 14 gauge CL3 rated carol speaker cable for about 25 cents a foot which seems perfectly fine for most uses. Sold in 500' rolls for 120 bucks or something. Lowes also had a similar product.

Using romex for speaker runs is an absolutely horrible idea (no offense to poster who mentioned it) For one its solid core and very stiff so getting it in your volume controls will be borderline impossible. And getting it in your reciever and making it all look nice will again be a challenge. Also do not use electrical boxes for your volume controls. For low voltage you dont need a fully enclosed box. Instead get some low voltage rings which are completely open to the wall so you dont have to try and stuff a volume control and all kinds of wires in a tiny box that simply wasnt made for that purpose. This goes for all the data, telephone, cable etc jacks as well if you are also doing those.

Also, becuase you trying to run all the house speakers off a reciever vs multi channel power amp be sure you get either a impedance matching speaker selector or impedance matching volume controls.