• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

New Linn Sondek Owner!!

It's 60% off market price as of a few years ago, 50% off what they're getting now. Either way it's a nice discount. Now use some of those savings to fit some new consumables and get yourself a sweet cartridge. And post lots of pics of the process, as well as letting us know your thoughts on the tweeks and their effects.

The guys at a local hifi shop are telling me that I should throw a grado on mine, and that my AT150 is too high compliance for my arm (ittok). Just thought I'd throw that in there for consideration, if you're looking at profiles for inspiration.
 
I've used the Jelco arm that's on your Linn- looks like an early Sumiko Premier MMT (built by Jelco) or Jelco 370.

Can you tell me- is the arm coated with a rubber type sleeve?

If so, that's a modded arm. The stock arm is "nekkid". I actually just recently did this with a Sumiko FT-3.

Anyhow, these Jelco/Sumiko arms are very nice- nice enough to be found on Linns, Aristons, Systemdeks, and VPIs.

The table should perform better than a stock M5G- the M5G would require mods to move it up a level or two.
 
thedelihaus said:
I've used the Jelco arm that's on your Linn- looks like an early Sumiko Premier MMT (built by Jelco) or Jelco 370.

Can you tell me- is the arm coated with a rubber type sleeve?

If so, that's a modded arm. The stock arm is "nekkid". I actually just recently did this with a Sumiko FT-3.

Anyhow, these Jelco/Sumiko arms are very nice- nice enough to be found on Linns, Aristons, Systemdeks, and VPIs.

The table should perform better than a stock M5G- the M5G would require mods to move it up a level or two.
Click to expand...

So, is the arm also considered an upgrade over the M5G arm in your opinion?
 
marantzfan said:
So, is the arm also considered an upgrade over the M5G arm in your opinion?
Click to expand...

In stock form (winces, and waits for the wrath)- yes.

I feel the Technics arm gets unfairly labeled a bad arm- it's not. It has great bearings and a fantastic VTA base. But look at the solid tone arm end stub carrier on the Jelco. The Technics is hollow and can introduce resonance, much like a hollow pipe vs a solid pipe. They don't make wind chimes out of solid pipes...

The tonearm tube is of the Jelco is internally damped too- with a foam much like that of those squishy insert type ear plugs. Not the Technics.

And the wiring is improved upon in the Jelco.

Note- these can all be easily (and cheaply) addressed on the Technics, but are already addressed on the Jelco.

The Technics does beat it out with that fantastic VTA base, however.

But don't fret- I believe Pete Riggles sells a nice VTA base upgrade for the Jelco.
 
The Pete Riggles VTA is for the Audioquest arm- but that's built by Jelco, too.

Maybe check with Pete to see if he has something that works with the Sumiko MMT/Jelco 370?

Note- the updated Jelco 750 uses a wider body shaft (more like the Audioquest) therefore will not work.
 
Nice grab. Hope you get a chance to A/B your Linn with the not-so-shabby Technics 1210M5G. I'll be all ears. BTW - how do you like that Silver Benz on the Technics?
 
marantzfan said:
So, is the arm also considered an upgrade over the M5G arm in your opinion?
Click to expand...

Congrats on your new turntable!

As I own both a Jelco tonearm (similar to what you've got on your new Linn)mounted on a Technics SP-15, and a stock Technics tonearm (with KAB Cardas rewire & tonearm dampener) on my SL-1200MK5, I offer my opinion.

Now in all fairness, I've not done direct A:B comparisons, and although these tonearms are mounted on very similar turntables, they're still different turntables. However, I've listened to thousands of records ranging from 110 year old shellac to audiophile LPs with both tonearms/turntables. Both are excellent performers, producing great sound and tracking a huge variety of discs without a hint of distortion or mis-tracking. I'd be hard-pressed to label one "better" than the other. The VTA/height adjust on the Technics arm is more refined and easier to set, due to the worm-gear construction and scale on the base.

Your M5G tonearm should provide excellent performance, as I'm sure you've experienced. It does have upgraded tonearm wire as compared to lesser quality wire used in MK2 and MK5 models, so I wouldn't bother rewiring that tonearm. You might consider ordering KAB's optional tonearm dampener. This is a very easy end-user installation, taking fifteen minutes, if that. The improvement to sound quality and tracking was subtle but noticeable when I installed it on my tonearm. Recommended. :thmbsp: As for purported resonance issues with the Technics tonearm, I've yet to hear or otherwise experience a problem in that regard.

Enjoy your new turntable. Looking forward to reading your further impressions as you get it up and running.
 
jgordon said:
It's 60% off market price as of a few years ago, 50% off what they're getting now. Either way it's a nice discount. Now use some of those savings to fit some new consumables and get yourself a sweet cartridge. And post lots of pics of the process, as well as letting us know your thoughts on the tweeks and their effects.

The guys at a local hifi shop are telling me that I should throw a grado on mine, and that my AT150 is too high compliance for my arm (ittok). Just thought I'd throw that in there for consideration, if you're looking at profiles for inspiration.
Click to expand...

A Grado, of any flavor, wiggles on my Ittok way too much...at the same price as the Sonata is the Ortofon X-5MC, a much better sounding cartridge and one that is extremely stable on the Ittok...it's what is currently on mine...
 
I would also say that if you get new springs, get new rubber bushings...I always do that for any Linn I tune if they are over a year or so old...or if the owner doesn't know how old they are, why have a question about their softness when you can know, right?

Another thing I have found is to use talcum powder, REAL TALC not anything containing baking soda, on the bushings and springs...helps eliminate the stiction as you try and tune...the last several Sondeks I tuned I did this (and I do it on my own) and it took scant minutes to tune for a perfect vertical bounce vs. several times as long without the talc...it just lets the springs and rubbers move so smoothly that dialing it in is a helluva lot easier...baking soda will absorb water, get in the ends of the springs and cause squeaking, the moisture can cause the springs to rust, and is just bad juju in turntables...do not ever use powder containing it on belts, either!

I know that some of the Linnies will poopoo this, I don't care, I was trained by one of the best and he didn't do it and I watched him labor for long periods of time to do what only takes me minutes to do every bit as well...the tune also seems to last longer, and be a bit quieter, too...

As always, YMMV

.
 
Ok, so I am going to go ahead and order a new set of springs as I know these are at least 15 years old.

Are the ones listed on ebay the correct ones and if not where is the best place to purchase them?
 
RickB said:
I would also say that if you get new springs, get new rubber bushings...I always do that for any Linn I tune if they are over a year or so old...or if the owner doesn't know how old they are, why have a question about their softness when you can know, right?

Another thing I have found is to use talcum powder, REAL TALC not anything containing baking soda, on the bushings and springs...helps eliminate the stiction as you try and tune...the last several Sondeks I tuned I did this (and I do it on my own) and it took scant minutes to tune for a perfect vertical bounce vs. several times as long without the talc...it just lets the springs and rubbers move so smoothly that dialing it in is a helluva lot easier...baking soda will absorb water, get in the ends of the springs and cause squeaking, the moisture can cause the springs to rust, and is just bad juju in turntables...do not ever use powder containing it on belts, either!

I know that some of the Linnies will poopoo this, I don't care, I was trained by one of the best and he didn't do it and I watched him labor for long periods of time to do what only takes me minutes to do every bit as well...the tune also seems to last longer, and be a bit quieter, too...

As always, YMMV

.
Click to expand...

Rick,

To my knowledge, most Linn set-up guys (worth their salt) use talcum powder as you've mentioned. It sure makes the job easier.

But the fact is that the OP has said that he will part with one of his decks so if he chooses to part with the LP-12, I feel he should spend the least amount of money to get it running properly. If it were mine, I would get fresh new springs and grommets as they are well worth the expense. I still would keep the arm/cart combo and live with it until the upgrade bug would hit me. There is a member here who enjoys his Linn with an entry level cartridge (M97e iirc) and still enjoys what his combo puts out and I kind of like his attitude about what the Linn truly is. It should be a strong performer with what the OP has on the deck.
 
Ok, I have ordered the oil and a suspension set from spinning dog records who looks to be an online authorized dealer for Linn components.

I have also downloaded the setup guide and users manual as well as the users manual for the Sumiko tonearm (which local AK member dokblues has some fluid for).

We'll be up and running soon, just need to find some Talcum powder now.. :scratch2:
 
Update.

Well, I have been doing some flipping. :D

But, the good news is, now I will be able to keep both the Linn and the Technics; one for the upstairs system and one for the downstairs system.

I am goign to put the Linn downstairs as the floor is concrete slab and not susceptible to footfalls, the Technics will go upstairs with the wood subfloor.

I havent done anything to this table yet except buy a suspension kit, the correct bearing oil and do a heck of a lot of reading.

Now that I dont have to choose between the two, I am going to take my time to get the Linn setup right. ALso, I think I am going to sell the Sumiko arm and hunt for an Akito or Ittok. :thmbsp:
 
Last edited:
I'm just seeing this now. You're saying the grado's compliance is too low and makes the arm wiggle?

Thanks

RickB said:
A Grado, of any flavor, wiggles on my Ittok way too much...at the same price as the Sonata is the Ortofon X-5MC, a much better sounding cartridge and one that is extremely stable on the Ittok...it's what is currently on mine...
Click to expand...
 
I am late to the party, but congrats on a great deck for a great price. I wouldn't bother with the arm exchange unless you are going to move to an Ekos. IMO, your money is better spent on a cart and keep the current arm. If you want to get a great arm for that deck, try the Pro-Ject Carbon 9cc. I have heard that combo and it's off the wall.

My buddy got the Tramp-o-linn (or whatever they call it) for his LP-12 and swears by it. I think it's about $300 regular price.

Enjoy!
 
Okay...So I finally got this guy setup and singing yesterday. I did not heed the advice to go slow and try it out as I bought it. Here is what I did:

1. New springs and bushings.
2. New Belt.
3. New oil (appropriate to pre-cirkus bearing)
4. Almost new Akito 2B with new Linn Armboard.
5. Ortofon 2m Black Cartridge.

Dokblues helped me to set it up and although I don't think we were as precise as some Linn owners seem to be about getting the deck leveled we got it pretty damn close.

Got everything setup and hooked it up to Dokblues system and WOW, I can tell after just a few minutes that this is a big leap over the Technics Sl-1210M5G that I used before. Can't wait to get my amp back from Jaymanaa and hear this deck through it and my Altec 19's.

I can't beleive it took me so long to get this thing up and singing. :no:

Only thing that bugs me is that if I sell my Technics, which I probably will, I won't have 45rpm. Soooo....I am now also looking at the Hercules II / Mose power supply option.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom