• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

New (Old) 2245

moodyj2000

Member
Just got a 2245 off of eBay. It appears all original. All lights work and look beautiful. Little rusting on screws but not on internals or metal cover. Everything functions with not static during turning. Sounds great with my very tired and needing to be replaced turntable.

Question, is there an actual immediate need to ship it off for service? What should I be looking for? I tend to believe in running it until there is a problem but then I don’t want a potential problem to cause significant damage.
 
Register to hide this ad
Congrats on the 2245. I will bite on this and tell you what I do when I get a new piece of gear. I do usually update it but they do not always need it right away.
First this is a great reference right here for solid state gear. This was writen by EchoWars a real expert and fountain of knowledge here on AK.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/amplifier-distortion-dc-offset-and-you.5634/

Next thing is get the service manual for the 2245. Very easy to find. http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=1&pos=80

Can you work on electronics? Have a willingness to learn? Do you have a digital volt meter at the very least? That said if its working and sounds good after and hour or so its probably fine. Below are just a few things I check out with a new piece of working vintage gear. Everybody has there own thing and there are real experts that will chime in but this has served me well over the years. That said I do usually update my units I get if they are ones I am keeping for my personal collection. the 2245 is one that would be very worthy of this and is relatively easy to work on.

Take the cover off the bottom if you are comfortable with this. Look at the boards, amplifier modules, power supply (board with the clear plastic realy) does it look good? Any of the capacitors have a covering that look like they have shrunk down from the top like it has been subjected to lots of heat? Anything look burnt or like it has been running hot?

First thing I do is check the voltage coming from the power supply board. Does it jive with the service manual. If not its easy to adjust if you are confident working on live elctronics. Dont do it if you are not.

What kind of voltage are you reading at the speaker outputs, set your meter to milivolts DC and check it. Hopefully it is close to the service manual, if not it is easy to adjust if you are comfortable doing it. If it wont adjust there are things that need to be updated. That said after say 20 minutes feel the main transformer, the two big filter capacitors next to the transfomer, the heat sinks on the amplifier boards. Are they cool to the touch? Both amp heat sinks the same temperature? Unit sound OK, all the different inputs working? Background quiet with headphones and the sound balance equal on both sides?

If these check out its probably fine in the moment. That said updating down the road will usually make it sound even better. Not always but in most cases.
These are just some suggestions that have worked for me and I know enough to be dangerous. :D

Many far more qualified members will chime in with more suggestions but read EchoWars exellent sticky about amplifier adjustments.

Post some pictures when you can too with it opened up so we can see if there are any areas of concern etc.
 
I agree with everything Fairlane said above. All of the specs he refers to are under “Audio Adjustment” on page 10 of the service manual that he linked to. If you think you might want to do some of this work yourself, another great Echowars thread that will help is here:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...udio-gear-eh-heres-the-tools-you-need.333423/
Look at point #4 dealing with Digital multimeters. The last paragraph links to some “mini-grabber” leads for a DMM that are pretty much essential for measuring voltage in these units. If you try to use the probe type leads, you will eventually slip and blow something up. But with Mini-grabbers, you turn the unit off, clip the leads on (for most DC readings, the black will clip to the chassis.), turn on and take measurement, turn off and remove leads. It’s as safe as you can get
Congrats! The 2245 is a superb receiver.:thumbsup:
 
Back
Top Bottom