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New RCA's for 1000A

larryderouin

larryderouin

I'm VERTICAL and Breathing...most of the time.
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I finally got fed up with the "flared" RCA jacks on the 1000A. So I ordered some Generic bolt in RCA Jacks from Parts Express and got to work.

I reused the original attachment plates, and removed all the wiring, making sure to mark each one with a piece of label and where it went. Also drew out a diagram of each one.

As this is a keper and I have never or will never use the DIN jack, I just cut out the DIN JACK connections from the wiring, and left the jack attached to the back.

Once I got all the old jacks off, I used a 1/4" drill bit to open up the existing holes, and lined up the tab on the ground washers so i could run 1 ground wire down the middle, instead of the two connected originally installed. The flats on the nuts were lined up parallel to the chassis opening. I needed additional clearance in the chassis so the nuts on the RCA's would clear and the plate sit flat, so out came the dremel and sanding drums. Once all the clearances had been obtained, the leads were soldered back on, and the wires dressed along the chassis side. Testing revealed no signal problems, and no grounding problems.

About 4 hours total, 16 RCA JACKS from Parts-Express #090-280, 1ft of 22ga solid core wire for ground.

Pictures soon.

Larry
 
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I have a AU-70 waiting for space on the table, the owner has requested the swop out of the flared RCA's. Hope the AU-70 has sufficient metal lip on chassis to do the same with the sanding drum.
 
Interested to see the pics.

I always liked the2014-02-19 002.JPG quality of the RCA jacks Pioneer used in, for example, their SA-9500. They have a split center and they are high quality in that the center pin is really grabbed nicely by the contact inside once the pin is about halfway in. I have been unable to find them but I'd like to retrofit my amps with this type some day.
 
What he means is that the RCA jacks on the SANSUI 1000A are a little larger in diameter than most and the RCA plugs once attached, become "flared" because of it. :no:

I am looking to do that with mine, more pictures please! :banana:

Mark T. :music:
 
Gadget. They have a flare at the back that prevents newer style plugs with shorter center pins from completely connecting. Once I get some new batteries I'll take some pics of the old vs. new. Here's a pic of the back when I got it back in October of 2009. Note the RCA's at the left of the back. The flare is built in at the back of the jack. Also you can see the flare real good on the Center channel RCA.

100_1150.JPG

I'll try and get some batteries tomorrow or monday.

Mano; The 1000A's RCA plates are mounted on the outside of the chassis with screws (as shown above.). If the AU-70 has the plates internal to the chassis (which I think it does), then you shouldn't have to grind out the chassis hole to clear the nuts.

Zekeman; These are not the split type that pioneer used. I would suggest finding some parts donors for them if you want that style, alnog with their boards.

The one's I used are the inexpensive chrome plated, RCA's. Good enough for me. They also have the same thing in Gold plating which cost twice as much each.
 
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Here's some pic's of the original RCA (after removal in 3 pieces) and the back after install, plus wiring dress.

The original RCA JACK. Note the FLARE on the tabbed end. This type was used onthe 1000A thruout it's build time, plus other units of the era used them.
100_4866-mod.jpg

The new jacks installed. Note the slots where the original jack slots inserted to hold them on.
100_4871-mod.jpg

Wiring. Removal of the DIN jack wiring helps. As I'm never going to use it, removal was warranted.
100_4870-mod.jpg
 
Very NICE job, Larry! I want to have a 1000A someday just to try something different, and also because I already know it's a good receiver because you've invested a lot of your time and efforts into yours...must be good, right?

John
 
ah, I see what you mean, and I know the crappy jack in question. I have a Japanese Realistic tuner with those things.
 
I always liked the flared jacks because I thought they gave a better connection~~~~~~UNTIL NOW------- when I saw these pictures. Great Job!!!!
 
Larry, Good job on the RCA, The AU-70 also has the strip on the outside. Once I make up the strip, I can then judge what needs to be done.
 
JHS2RT said:
I always liked the flared jacks because I thought they gave a better connection~~~~~~UNTIL NOW------- when I saw these pictures. Great Job!!!!
Click to expand...
No,, the Flared Jack RCA was a design flawed from Sansui.. the RCA connection need to reseat all the time....

all the Sansui tubes equipment of this era had them... bad..
 
Thanks for the kudo's. Figured it was time to do this as i was getting an intermittent hum in the phono section. turned out it was the RCA CABLE not making good contact inside due to the flare not letting the short center pin make good solid contact. Now everything works well. And i can use just about any type of RCA cable ends (except the really FAT one's like Monster).

Just out of curiosity, what do you guys use for a replacement plate. I was originally thinking 3/16" Thick Hardboard, but it drills like shite. Some kind of plastic sheet? Reason i ask is the RCA plate's on my 800-C and TA-600 (FISHER's) are bending in the middle (3 gang board) and I want to replace them. They are inside the chassis.
 
Larry,
I had some good results with a plastic called tufnol. You can get thickness from 2mm upwards. Would suggest 3.5 or 4mm and use of shallow cut wood drills. Pilot hole and use the wood drill from both sides to get a clean hole. The Tufnol is very similar to the bakelite strip.
 
It's been 3 weeks now since I put in the new RCA's. Gone are the intermittent hum when cables get loose or back out, or the old corroded connection intermittents on the originals. SQ is improved with the new contacts (even with the old ones being polished there is improvement), and there is a positive stop you can feel when inserting the RCA Plug in to the jack, which wan't there with the originals. I used the chromed one's as they were cheaper than the gold plated ones, but I don't think short term this would be a problem, although when the chrome one's start pitting about the time I get fitted for a PINE Peacoat(coffin), they'll probably need to be replaced.

I can now use newer cables with slightly larger heads on them, but they are still a bit tight next to each other. Next time I'll use a new plate and spread them out a little with the largest cable heads. Now to do the same thing on my FISHER 400.
 
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