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New restore project, Marantz 2220 (the sequel)

Aaron99

Aaron99

Active Member
So I was watching the local Craigslist for my next 'project'. A non-working Marantz 2220 came up. I contacted the seller about what was broken and he gave me a link to AudioKarma thread. This unit has been here before but was unsuccessful. I will document the progress in this thread, and hopefully this unit has a good result this time.....

I took the unit apart last night and overall looks clean and in decent cosmetic condition.

Replacement parts based on mBuras thread have been ordered, and I now wait for parts.
 
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Initial condition:
Unit passes DBT.
Unit turns on and lights up.
I plugged in sacrificial speakers and there was a bad buzzing from the left channel. The right seems to work.

IMG_20170114_093632.jpg
 
Opened up the case and can see that a lot of capacitors have been changed out as described by the previous owner. The P800, P500, P650 and P700 boards have replaced capacitors and transistors. They seem to be replaced with audio grade Nichicon.
I double checked the replaced capacitor values and their orientation to make sure that none were inserted backwards.
I compared against photos taken by mBuras, and Steven Tate.

I ordered the larger sized main capacitors.
Before:
IMG_20170114_093732.jpg IMG_20170114_093645.jpg IMG_20170114_093711.jpg
 
The mouser and digikey order came in yesterday. Thanks to Steven Tate for the part number for the smaller 35mm bracket at digikey. I had a chance last night to work on the 2220. I replaced the main capacitors last night.
Started it up on a DBT and it passed although there is no change in the left channel noise. I will be going through the P800 next.

After:
IMG_20170124_185118.jpg
 
Wow! I've never seen capacitors spray foamed in place. That's sketchy. I see a lot of capacitors that aren't installed flush the way I'd like to see them. Not necessarily bad but I'd be checking the backside of all those boards for solder bridges, lifted traces, etc. Doesn't seem like the best of work.

Nice work on the new coupling and filter caps. The smaller clamp is one solution but there are also 40mm caps that will fit the original clamp. Either way all good. Hope you find that problem.
 
Aren't these little receivers awesome. Kind of reminds me of Harley Davidson making Sportsters for trips to the store, or "first motorcycles" ..they are so good you don't need to move up. Unless you really want to, and than you always miss it if you unload it.
 
FOH Engineer said:
Aren't these little receivers awesome. Kind of reminds me of Harley Davidson making Sportsters for trips to the store, or "first motorcycles" ..they are so good you don't need to move up. Unless you really want to, and than you always miss it if you unload it.
Click to expand...

I agree. I am hooked after I got my first 4230. I just want to restore them all... :)
 
Tonight I worked on the P800 power supply board. I replaced the capacitors with the physically larger ones that I had in my supply. Although the little caps were the correct values, somehow a power supply with little 5mm caps doesn't look that powerful to me.

I replaced the following:
C803 - 330uF 63V capacitor
C804 - 470uF 63V capacitor
C805/C810 - 470uF 25V capacitor
C806/C808 - 47uF 50V capacitor
C809 - 100uF 63V capacitor
H803 - 512-KSC2383YTA transistor
R802 - 270ohm/2watt resistor
R803 - 330ohm/2watt resistor

The voltages are as follows:
Location | Spec | Actual
J808 | 35 V | 41.5 V
J809 | 12 V | 12.1V
J810 | 14.6V | 15.33V

I am concerned that J808 is a little high. Although as I work the downstream boards I expect it to "load" down to 35V. Is this a reasonable assumption?

Before:
IMG_20170114_093653.jpg

After:
IMG_20170125_223732.jpg
 
I spent some time before working on the P800 board fixing the schematic so I could actually read it.

P800.jpg
 
Great job on the 2220 and on the schematic !
I just finished my 2220 not long ago, it sounds really really nice.
Here's the link for my 2220 here.
If you need photos, I have quite a few more than are on my write-up, just ask...
 
One more thing I did tonight was to fix the ground for the P700 Amp board. The grounding strap was broken and I wasn't confident in the solder holding it together.
I didn't get a before closeup picture of it, but here is the broken strap, and the black wire that I used for the ground. I soldered a lug and used a short piece of black copper wire.

This didn't help the sound on the left channel yet.

IMG_20170125_235429.jpg IMG_20170125_235501 copy.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice fix on the ground. I had something similar on the 2220 currently on my bench. I know it's only 2 units but wondering if that's a weak spot on these 2220's?
 
Next stop was the P500 pre-amp board.
I replaced the following:
C501/C502 with Wima .22uF/63V
C505/C506 with Wima 1uf/50V film 505-MKS2B041001C00KS

IMG_20170125_231148.jpg
 
Then I saw it. A broken wire between the P500 and the P650 board.
J652 connection to J508.
I soldered the connection. DBT passed. Both channels now have sound!

See the broken yellow wire.
IMG_20170124_195158.jpg
IMG_20170125_090709.jpg
IMG_20170125_231148.jpg
 
Adjusting the unit. I have run the unit about 20 minutes.

I adjusted the voltage across both R747 and R748 to 7.5mV.

I measured the voltages off the P800 power supply board,

Location | Spec | Actual
J808 | 35 V | 40.7 V
J809 | 12 V | 12.2 V
J810 | 14.6V | 14.1V

So I am concerned that J808 is 5V too high.

Overall it sounds pretty good. I notice that there is more hiss (than my other Marantz units) when the volume is all the way down. It does not matter which input selection it is on (AM/FM/PHONO/AUX) the hiss is there at 0 volume. It is even there with the headphones. I am guessing it is somewhere on the P500 board. Its not horrible, just there in the background like white noise. When there is any music playing I can not hear the hiss.

Any hints how to track it down? I do have an oscilloscope and a multimeter....
 
I had some time to work on the 2220 last night. I worked on each board one at a time, and then powered on with DBT and tested to ensure it works.

P500:
Replaced: H501 - H506 with KSC1845FTA

P700:
Replaced:
H701 - H704 with 512-KSC2383YTA
H705/H706 with KSC945CYTA
H707/H708with KSA733CYTA

P800:
Replaced:
H804/H805/H808 with 512-UF4005

After replacing these items the background noise (white noise) is still there. I have asked a specific question in this thread on how to troubleshoot this. Here is my latest post in that thread.

The hiss (like white noise) is in both left and right channel. It is present using the headphones and speakers when volume turned down. It doesn't matter which input is selected. It doesn't matter if the main/remote speaker button it on or off. The only thing that suppresses the hiss is the Hi Filter button. That removes the hiss, but also takes out the top end when playing music.​
 
Aaron99 said:
Opened up the case and can see that a lot of capacitors have been changed out as described by the previous owner. The P800, P500, P650 and P700 boards have replaced capacitors and transistors. They seem to be replaced with audio grade Nichicon.
I double checked the replaced capacitor values and their orientation to make sure that none were inserted backwards.
I compared against photos taken by mBuras, and Steven Tate.

I ordered the larger sized main capacitors.
Before:
View attachment 857619 View attachment 857621 View attachment 857624
Click to expand...


Where is the dial pointer connect for power? I just got a M2220 and that is not connected for some reason. Tks
 
Does this unit use any of the "known noisy" transistors like a 2SC458? I have a Sansui 2000A that had a monster hiss and replacing those transistors sorted it.
 
Aaron99 said:
The mouser and digikey order came in yesterday. Thanks to Steven Tate for the part number for the smaller 35mm bracket at digikey. I had a chance last night to work on the 2220. I replaced the main capacitors last night.
Started it up on a DBT and it passed although there is no change in the left channel noise. I will be going through the P800 next.

After:
View attachment 857633
Click to expand...

I'm working on a 2220 at the moment and am gathering all the info here on AK that I can. Appreciate you sharing your experience and posting this thread / pics but it would be great if you had included into like the filter capacitor and corresponding bracket part numbers you mentioned. Would you happen to know the part numbers for the 4700uF and 2200uF caps that are the correct size and their respective brackets? I believe the large cap is 40mm and the other two are 35mm diameters no? Thanks!
 
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