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New (to me) Magnepan MMGs!

It appears your MMG's have the second generation crossover. That said, are you sure that the caps on the tweeters are 25uF? Whatever the value caps that are in there, it's a simple upgrade to just install a better ones of the same value.
 
The parallel 12 uF caps is a total capacitance value of 24 uF, so a single 25 uF is virtually identical in value. You might want to experiment with adding the "missing" 25 uF cap on the mid-bass panel, and see how it impacts the sound... but as recommended above, just go with higher quality caps of the same values for a simple restore/upgrade...
 
Good call RickeyM. I misread the cap; the tie holding it in blocked some of the text. It's 12μF, 250V.

Also, any ideas to fix the loose Mylar/ bass buzzing issue? At this point it's probably the most serious issue with the speaker and I don't know of any tried and true way to repair that. Maybe I should've just bought a factory new pair, tossed in some upgraded caps and called it a day.
 
Use some contact adhesive such as DAP. Prepare the mylar by removing the old glue with some acetone.

Maybe adding your own "tuning dot" to the area with the loose mylar?
 
Mylar is commonly used in many decal-cutting shops and comes with a variety of adhesives, ranging to permanent enough to withstand repeated cycles in an autoclave (for labels on surgical instruments). (I used to make such). If I had a small tear in the mylar panel, I'd get some with strong adhesive and patch that bit, probably patching it both front and back. All you need is to eliminate the give in the panel that lets the wires slap the magnetic panel. Mylar comes in some very, very thin varieties. It's very strong and hard to tear and a piece with good permanent adhesive front and back of your tear ought to make a patch that'd last for years.
 
jaguar06 said:
Mylar is commonly used in many decal-cutting shops and comes with a variety of adhesives, ranging to permanent enough to withstand repeated cycles in an autoclave (for labels on surgical instruments). (I used to make such). If I had a small tear in the mylar panel, I'd get some with strong adhesive and patch that bit, probably patching it both front and back. All you need is to eliminate the give in the panel that lets the wires slap the magnetic panel. Mylar comes in some very, very thin varieties. It's very strong and hard to tear and a piece with good permanent adhesive front and back of your tear ought to make a patch that'd last for years.
Click to expand...

Well, actually the speaker with the tear is actually the one that works fine now. Painting thin layers of DAP over it seems to have done the trick for that speaker. I'll keep that in mind though if the problem returns.

RickeyM said:
Maybe adding your own "tuning dot" to the area with the loose mylar?
Click to expand...

I did try doing that for a little bit, and it seemed to help only a little bit. I'm wondering if there is a way to re-stretch the mylar somehow, as it just looks and sounds loose.

Perhaps I should just contact Magnepan. From reading their website they seem like they'd be helpful.
 
Re-tensioning the Mylar is a job best done by Magnepan as it requires a special machine and devices to measure tension. Most everything else can be done DIY, but for that they need to go back to White Bear Lake.
 
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