• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

New to Reel to Reel

Zach Nelson

Zach Nelson

How deep is this rabbit hole?
I've been wanting to add a reel to reel to my system for awhile but don't know much about them. Not trying to Shell out a bunch of cash on something I don't know that I'll enjoy. What's a decent unit to look for? What should I plan on spending? What to look for/watch out for when looking at used units?
 
Register to hide this ad
If you get the Akai 4000 series, make sure the capstan sleeve and fixing nut are included. Without it, you can't do 7.5 ips. I've heard there are replacements out there, but the surface finish of the sleeve plays a part in performance.
 
Finding one that has been gone through would be a huge plus. Including your location in your signature is a good idea, maybe an AK’er local to you has something available or can help you with a purchase. Ditto on the TEAC “A” series (especially the A-2300SX or similar). The AKAI mentioned is a good first one too, might also give honourable mention to Sony TC-366 or TC-377, another good entry level machine.
 
I was wearing same shoes several months back. Ones advertised as having been serviced command premium prices, way more then I was willing to pay. So I followed MaxxVolume advice, ended up with a clean Teac A series deck. This advice is spot on, needed minimal attention, sounds great; way less money then the "serviced" ones. Love the big reels.
 
Last edited:
Neither Akai or Teac heads hold up that well. I would be looking for a Revox B series first and an A series second. That said A-77 have some issues. Rotary selector switches will not handle heavy handed abuse. Brake bands can fail when used with heavy 10 and 1/2 inch metal reels in constant fast modes to repeated stopping. Its best to select the opposite mode to bring the reels to an almost stop before pushing the stop button. Revox had a bad run of tachco pickup heads that provided signal to confirm proper speed operation of the capstan among other drive issues. I liked the IV model A series with the Dolby noise reduction.
 
twiiii said:
Neither Akai or Teac heads hold up that well. I would be looking for a Revox B series first and an A series second. That said A-77 have some issues. Rotary selector switches will not handle heavy handed abuse. Brake bands can fail when used with heavy 10 and 1/2 inch metal reels in constant fast modes to repeated stopping. Its best to select the opposite mode to bring the reels to an almost stop before pushing the stop button. Revox had a bad run of tachco pickup heads that provided signal to confirm proper speed operation of the capstan among other drive issues. I liked the IV model A series with the Dolby noise reduction.
Click to expand...

Heads still look perfect on my almost 50 yr old Teac. Braking is excellent and I never use opposite mode stopping, in fact first time hearing about this. Interesting brake wear and tear reduction technique, assuming there are no other potential negative consequences?
 
The Pioneer RT-1020L was their top of the line for many years. They later produced the RT-707 and RT-909 which are quite elegant in their construction and performance, but might be a bit pricey for a first foray. I heartily recommend the Pioneer RT-1020L as a good place to start and enjoy for a good long while, as long as the unit has been fully restored. You should be able to get one for around $650 in that condition, with excellent cosmetics to go with. The RT-909 would go for around double that in similar condition.

In an Akai Deck, you might find that an Akai GX-630D, in fully restored condition would be comparable to the Pioneer RT-1020L, and for similar green.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Five or six years ago I got the notion to own another reel to reel deck. My last one was in the mid 1970’s when I abandoned the format.

When the urge hit, I put up a forum post with the subject asking “what reel to reel deck was the easiest to work on?” Since the responsibility for rehabbing whatever I acquired would fall on yours truly, ease of repair was a high priority.

There were multiple recommendations but the overall consensus was Teac. So that was what I sought out and wound up with an early A-3300. I wanted 10” reel capability and finances were limited. In other words it had to be cheap.

As these things go, I had little difficulty restoring it to working condition and it works well even now.

Subsequently I obtained two other smaller Teac’s both in the A-2300 series. Restoring them to functionality went well and both were gifted to new owners.

There were two others - a nice black Akai GX-4000 partially disassembled in a box but easy to put back together. But it suffered from “the bad Akai transistor” so needed work. Once aware of Akai’s known potential transistor problem, I replaced all of that type. There were 14 in total. Not hard to replace but it was tedious making the circuit board(s) accessible. Once operational, it performed splendidly. A thoughtful daughter purchased for her dad who was thrilled with it.

The last reel to reel I purchased was a Pioneer RT-707. Solely because I took a shine to it’s appearance and small form factor. And the price was right. It had been in a tech’s possession so was in working condition. The heads had wear but were not worn out and soon after purchasing I wound up replacing the counter belt and a cap for a function switch. Those repairs were fairly easy but my thought was that anything more substantial could be hard due to space restrictions. It’d pretty cramped inside those things. Nice sounding and good looking deck though.

Another foray inside it may be in order at some time because I do believe the Auto Reverse feature may have quit working. Not looking forward to that chore so I’ve been procrastinating.
 
I could not entertain it. My finances are such that I must take gambles with the hope of resurrecting something someone will part with for little or no money.

However, if that 4300 was from a vendor who backed it with a warranty, the asking price would be inline. But a private sale from a FB classified, there is no way to know how operational it is despite how nice it looks.

It does say OBO so for 1/2 asking it might be worth the risk and spending some money on it if necessary.

It also says the ad has been posted for 4 months. I’d wonder why that is? .

And re those tapes, it could be that the Maxell, is the only one worth having. Some older tapes do not age well. They can suffer chemical reactions over time that make them useless. But the only way to find that out for sure is play them.
 
Whaddabout an Otari MX 3030=or whatever that # is? Mine ain't for sale, but I'd like to know the general opinions of 'em....
 
Otari MX 50, MX5050 and variants are all quality machines. Designed for studio and radio station use, they're far more robust and easily repairable than a lot of consumer decks. Heavy, but in the right way. Rack mount, desktop, or console mount. Meter bridge can be moved for console. I used to use them quite a bit, and the only thing I ever had to fix was the occasional alignment or worn head.

I have a MX 50, and would get a 5050B or better at the drop of a hat.

But what I really want is an MTR 10 or 12. Had a pair of those in studio back in the day. What great machines.
 
You should look at 3-motor decks, typically, as the economy, 1 motor decks need more belts, and possibly re-rubberized idlers. The mainstream decks from 1975 to the early 80's are generally safe bets. Condition will be a key factor, however. My Akai 4000D has been the most trouble free deck I've ever owned; it was in exceptional condition. The price can range from "I'm throwing this away, do you want it?" , to $5000 for a consumer machine. Start looking on Craigslist, and Barter town, as Ebay machines get broken in shipping typically. The decks mentioned are good places to start/look. $350 is a good deal for that 4300, as the box, condition, and tapes sweeten the deal. However, it is auto-reverse, which typically has dirty relays , which often means channel drops.It also doesn't mention servicing, so you'll have to add belts, and contact cleaner, plus yours/somebody else's time and labor. The 4300 also won't play 10.5" reels, while 10.5" decks can play 7" reels. Grab that deck, get it going, then enjoy it while you casually look for others, educating yourself along the way.
 
Last edited:
Cheap reel to reels, and a rewarding experience are few and far between has been my experience. I batted oh for three until the last machine (akai 201d) which has been great, a real work horse for me that gets played every week. Take your time, they are out there but not easy to find, I really wouldn't go the auction site way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom