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Nht model 2 crossover question.

Chrisssssssss

Active Member
Hey all,

I ended up picking up a pair of nht model 2 floorstanders in really nice shape for a good price. I will take some pics once my power comes back on here. It's windy outside and the power is out around here.


These are in nice shape, have a mylar tweeter, 6.5 midbass in a sealed chamber with 2 6.5 drivers as the low end drivers, and rated overall at 8 ohm as stated on the back. The tweeter is nothing special and I would like to replace it.

Anyways these need a refoam job on the 6.5's used as the midbass driver on both sides. The low bass drivers are fine as they are rubber surrounds.

The midbass woofers are foam surround and need replacing either I refoam them or replace them with another driver. I have a pile of 6.5" car audio drivers that would fit perfectly however they are a 4 ohm driver (4.2 measured) vs the original one at 6ohm (5.7 measured). How well would they work? What happens to the xover usually in this case?

The tweeter ohms out to 6.6 measured and the low bass drivers is measured at 6.4 on each one x2 per side. The speaker overall measures to 4.8 overall but listed at 8 ohm on the back nameplate of the speaker cabinet.

My question basically is what happens to the xover points as a rule of thumb if you replace one driver with another one of a different ohm measurement. I am not quite sure what I am going to do yet but also thinking of rebuilding the xovers anyways and maybe mod them to specs using the different driver. What about the tweeter? What if i replace that with something a bit different on the ohm scale?

Does the xover frequency change higher or lower in relation to the driver ohm measurement.

Since the midbass is the same size as the bass driver I am not too sure whether or not it would be a bandpass xover seeing that driver or not. My guess would be yes, but I am going to look for the exact specs on the net and also be looking for xover schematics also. If anybody can help there pm if you could.

Thanks for any help or advice. I am writing this on my iPhone because the computer has no power so no AK there and had to do this whole post on the iPhone. It kinda sucks for writing long things and this is about the end of my patience level with it. I am sitting beside this pair of speakers with a screwdriver, a flashlight and a backlit multimeter writing down measurements and unscrewing drivers in pitch black while the power is out, as well as writing all about it on my iPhone to AK. Is that nuts or what?

This was the only thing I could find to do while no power. Talk about AK eh?

Thanks all.
 
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OK, first off. Refoam the original drivers. DO NOT replace them with car stereo components. Not only will the impedance be different (as measured in ohms) but the frequency response, resonant frequency, and just about every characteristic will be totally different than the stock NHT drivers...you'll get a cosmetic match but a TERRIBLE sonic match.

As for the tweeter, replacements are most likely still available.

The Model 2 was a heck of a nice speaker, and I'm sure you'll be way happier with one restored to fighting trim than just a Model 2 cabinet with a bunch of mismatched drivers in it.

Hope your power comes back soon!
 
What he said.......you have a fine speaker there, I would suggest as well to restore and admire them. Find so old "beaters" at a garage sale and experiment on them!
DC
 
I could easily live with NHT 2s.

Replacing the drivers with "on hand" auto drivers is gonna ruin them- both sonics as well as destroying any resale value.

Ken Kantor is a very brilliant man, and invested lots of time, energy and effort to properly match drivers, design the cabinets, and get the crossover correct.

Swapping drivers and messing with the crossover? Unless you are of his brilliance and skill level, I wouldn't do it.
 
I could easily live with NHT 2s.

Replacing the drivers with "on hand" auto drivers is gonna ruin them- both sonics as well as destroying any resale value.

Ken Kantor is a very brilliant man, and invested lots of time, energy and effort to properly match drivers, design the cabinets, and get the crossover correct.

Swapping drivers and messing with the crossover? Unless you are of his brilliance and skill level, I wouldn't do it.

Wow... thanks... your next check is in the mail!

=k
 
Try and stick with the original drivers, or an equivalent, as there is much more to matching driver and crossover than DCR. I don't have the original schematic, but I remember the Model 2 having a crossover designed to allow the upper section to perform much like a Model 1. It wasn't a complicated network, but it did rely on specific driver characteristics.

I believe the top portion of the Model 2 was exactly like a model one... same drivers, same crossover, same enclosure. This was fed through a single cap of about 80 uF. (?) The 2x6.5" woofers were unusually long throw and high mass for their day, and used a single inductor LPF. (8 mH?)

That paper cone mid-bass was used in several NHT products. You might be able to find a later-gen unit (that has improved-reliability foam) just sitting around in a Model 1 or Super 1 with a dead tweeter.

-k


Hey all,

I ended up picking up a pair of nht model 2 floorstanders in really nice shape for a good price. I will take some pics once my power comes back on here. It's windy outside and the power is out around here.


These are in nice shape, have a mylar tweeter, 6.5 midbass in a sealed chamber with 2 6.5 drivers as the low end drivers, and rated overall at 8 ohm as stated on the back. The tweeter is nothing special and I would like to replace it.

Anyways these need a refoam job on the 6.5's used as the midbass driver on both sides. The low bass drivers are fine as they are rubber surrounds.

The midbass woofers are foam surround and need replacing either I refoam them or replace them with another driver. I have a pile of 6.5" car audio drivers that would fit perfectly however they are a 4 ohm driver (4.2 measured) vs the original one at 6ohm (5.7 measured). How well would they work? What happens to the xover usually in this case?

The tweeter ohms out to 6.6 measured and the low bass drivers is measured at 6.4 on each one x2 per side. The speaker overall measures to 4.8 overall but listed at 8 ohm on the back nameplate of the speaker cabinet.

My question basically is what happens to the xover points as a rule of thumb if you replace one driver with another one of a different ohm measurement. I am not quite sure what I am going to do yet but also thinking of rebuilding the xovers anyways and maybe mod them to specs using the different driver. What about the tweeter? What if i replace that with something a bit different on the ohm scale?

Does the xover frequency change higher or lower in relation to the driver ohm measurement.

Since the midbass is the same size as the bass driver I am not too sure whether or not it would be a bandpass xover seeing that driver or not. My guess would be yes, but I am going to look for the exact specs on the net and also be looking for xover schematics also. If anybody can help there pm if you could.

Thanks for any help or advice. I am writing this on my iPhone because the computer has no power so no AK there and had to do this whole post on the iPhone. It kinda sucks for writing long things and this is about the end of my patience level with it. I am sitting beside this pair of speakers with a screwdriver, a flashlight and a backlit multimeter writing down measurements and unscrewing drivers in pitch black while the power is out, as well as writing all about it on my iPhone to AK. Is that nuts or what?

This was the only thing I could find to do while no power. Talk about AK eh?

Thanks all.
 
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I hope there wasn't a 7 year long power outage...??? That. Would. Suck. Regardless, I wouldn't have used car speakers either. Maybe rebuilt the top section as Super Ones, at most, since that would have used the same woofer, with the later and better NHT soft dome tweeter.
 
Gentlemen/Ladies;
Sorry, I know how old this discussion is, but I just found it (and I plan on being buried with my VT-2's (and yes, I own much more expensive systems; still love these speakers)). SO, after living with them for a very long time, I am finally getting off my a$$ and bi-amping them (and I mean with an "upstream" active crossover and 4 power amps), and have been debating the proper crossover point when (sorry; obvious) using the external "bi-amping terminals". CHATGPT and I both think 125hz. How say y'all?
Thanks, Phil
 
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