Well, this job is history.
The goal was to fix a persistent hum in the right channel as well as to lower the noise floor of the amp. I noticed that some of my electrolytic caps weren't looking so hot and I had already fixed a cold solder joint in the secondary power supply. The hum went away for awhile, but came back, probably due to leaky caps.
I talked to Parasound and Tony recommended that I change out a couple pair of small transistors as well as the E-caps. Took awhile to spec replacement transistors because many of the parts are obsolete on this 15 year old amp. I did find some suitable replacements made by Fairchild (BC639/640) and ordered them along with the previously mentioned Nichicon HE/PW caps. Probably talking less than $20 worth of parts.
Did the job last night, took about 3 hours all told. Found out that my suspicions of leaky caps were correct. There was one or two leaky caps in each channel.
The caps in question are the light blue ones that are clustered together. Here is what they looked like before.
The caps used by Parasound were Richey, rated at 85 and as far as I can tell, the are probably rated at 2000 hour life. I'm sure over the last 13ish years, this amp has seen more than 2000 hours of use (that would only be 15 hours/month)
After the job...the Nichicons look much better, don't they?
The Nichicons are all rated at 105C and have a life of 8000-10000 hours depending on the size. Hopefully, these should give 15-20 years of solid life since they won't see the 105C temp very often, if at all.
Anyway, after changing all these parts out, the noise floor on the amp dropped to completely undetectable by ear. I mean, with my ear right next to the tweeter or mid, I can't hear ANYTHING until I turn on the preamp and a source. Before, I could hear faint noise from both channels, plus the hum in the right channel. The overall effect of this is a noticeable improvement in low level detail. Well worth the effort and minimal money spent.
Another example of electrolytic caps going bad before anything else in the circuit.
I next plan to go through the input board and replace all the E caps in there and remove some extra tacked on cheapy film caps that were installed by Parasound in Taiwan (but not initially spec'd by John Curl). Mr. Curl talks about these mods over either DIYAudio or Audioasylum, can't remember, but I've seen it before.