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Nikko Alpha 440 Filter Caps Question

cemerson

cemerson

Active Member
I'm going to replace the filter caps on this Alpha 440 I have and wanted some advice. I think I know the answer, but just want to make sure, The original caps are Chemicon 40 mm X 100 mm, 100v - 15,000 uF, but they have 4 leads. On the body of the Caps, it says two of the leads are "blank". I'm assuming these were for support, as opposed to being actual connections. The caps appear to be leaking around the bottom. Since there's support for these, there would be no requirement for support on the PCB, correct. Anyone let me know if I'm looking at this wrong. Excuse the pictures, I was trying to hold a flashlight & iPhone at the same time.

Thanks, Chris

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Correct about the 'blank' leads- for support.

Is the leakage dry or wet? If dry, it's probably glue.
 
I concur - probably glue.
You can pull them out to get a better look at the bottom seal.
 
I’ve seen a couple other Nikko amps with a white type of glue on components, but this actually looks like it is eating the bottom of caps, I haven’t pulled them, because I wanted to have replacements to put in, but they have to come out any way, so I’ll pull them this weekend.

Thanks for the help, Chris
 
Hello

replacing these big capacitors is not necessary if they are working
I saw many post everywhere about the "desease" to "recap" all the unit ....This is really sad that all of these guys are copying this without to know if it is right to do it and if these capacitors are working well .
I work on high quality units over 42 years and I have to confess that many owner's (who don't know nothing about electronic) replacing capacitors by no appropriate specs or value ...

The trace that you can see is GLUE and don't need to replace your capacitors . The most important problem with this glue , is that corrosion is there and need to be cleaned , that's all .
Glue was used to avoid troubles during shipping because soldering are fragile and may be destroy during shipping (even with a fixing clip) . If your unit will not move anymore and stay with you, you can clean the glue and PCB without using "new glue" .
 
Okay Clinic that all sounds reasonable, so to follow up, what would you use to clean the glue & stop the corrosion? I’m sure I’m going to have to pull the PCBs and use something like a toothbrush to get in those spaces, but is there something you know works? Or is it as simple as alcohol?

Thanks for the advice, Chris
 
Chris

Acetone will do it fine , BUT be carefull with it because some components will not like it at all (acetone) !
 
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