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Nikon Flash

OldSkool

Pioneer Nut
Gotta question for you camera gurus.

Felicia has been asked to shoot a friends wedding with her D200 and she is going to need a decent flash for it. Any suggestions from anyone for a quality unit that will do the job? I really dont want to get an el cheapo rig, but something more towards the pro-line.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions. :thmbsp:
 
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I would go with a Nikon speedlight that is compatible with the D200. This will give you thru the lens metering, so your flash will automatically put out the right amount of light needed for a good exposure. The owners manual should list what Nikon model speedlights will work with the D200.
 
something like the SB-28 I think or newer.. but tall and powerfull the newest ones are the sb-600 and 900 which are most likely going to give you the newest metering sytems.. I had a SB-28 that is an older model but probbaly has most of what you need.. those are probably around used for a decent deal.. but you need tall so you dont get red eye and power so it will work beyond the typical 10 feet that most cheep flashes are only good for. also these probably zoom the head just a bit too so if you are using a wider lens they spread.. or more tele.. they narrow

other things that are important and more of a given on bigger flashes.. is recycle time.. you dont want to miss a picture because the flash wasnt ready..

if she is going to do this on a regular basis.. probably the 900 will allow for external power supplies that will allow instant recharging of the flash and also keep from having to change batteries as often..
 
iTTl compatible... if money doesn't matter get the SB-800.
For some Partyshots SB-600 also is right ok. Maybe rent one for the event?

I paid for my like new condition used SB-800 ~380$

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you should get a SB-600 <200$, a SB-800 <400$


get a bouncer for it... :)


Or check out the Nikon dedicated Metz-Flashes.

Helge

Gotta question for you camera gurus.
Felicia has been asked to shoot a friends wedding with her D200 and she is going to need a decent flash for it. Any suggestions from anyone for a quality unit that will do the job? I really dont want to get an el cheapo rig, but something more towards the pro-line.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. :thmbsp:
 
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I guess I could do some web searches, but what is the major differences between the 800 and 900 ?

She does have a battery-grip so that helps with battery life I suppose.
 
the battery grip is only for the camera.. the flash takes its own batteries and is in my opinion more greedy than the camera.
 
The 900 is brand new and lots expensivier
the 800 is 4 yrs old and still as expensive as on first day :) it's a good flash...
the 800 can be driven with 5 AA with adapting an extra holder. 2 sets of accus are enough for the most events...
 
But is the "lots expensiver" warranted on the 900?

Sometimes when a new model comes out, it has features and abilities the one before simply doesnt have.

I realize most people dwell on price, but if Im going to spend cold cash on a flash Id really like to get her what is the best as she will be keeping/using it for quite some time. I guees to me, once Im in the 350+ price range, I dont mind spending another 100 or more to get the best if that is the case.
 
She could use one of the very versatile new low voltage Vivitar 283 or 285 thyristor flashes. They are not dedicated. They are the same except the 285 has a zoom head. They both have lots of power and a removable sensor that can be placed in the camera hot shoe should she deem to put the flash on a handle. The 285 cost about $100, the 283 about $85. They are great units with lots of accessories available and used by many pros, myself included when I was in the business. My 285 got used as much as my Nikon SB-26, which cost four times as much.

A naked flash is kinda harsh for formal shots. I would suggest, at the minimum, a Lumiquest on flash softbox or a Sto-Fen (or similar) diffuser. Better yet would be a couple remote soft boxes or umbrellas using slave-fired flash heads. For candids you would also want to use some sort of shadow control like the aforementioned on flash softbox or Sto-Fen. I really am a fan of shadowboxes but the Sto-Fen is cheaper, much smaller (read: less intrusive) and works great. The are model specific whereas the Lumiquest softboxes are made in different sizes, each that will fit a fairly wide range of flash models (they are held on with velcro strips). An automatic flash or TTL flash will compensate for any light loss you have by using a diffuser.

She might want to go to a local library and check out Monte Zucker's classic book on wedding photography. He was one of the best in the field and his book is full of great shooting and equipment hints. There is also a book on shooting weddings in the "Complete Idiots Guide To...." series. It's good but, imho, way oversimplifies.

Above all, she should, if possible, attend the wedding rehearsal so she can get a feel of pacing and scheduling and any restrictions the location or pastorage might have. For the actual ceremony/reception it would help if she had at least two cameras available in case one develops problems - or at least a spare set of camera batteries or two AND several sets of (known good) batteries for the flash.

Yeah, I know. Too complicated. Comes from years of shooting weddings and events. She'll be fine if she plans ahead and doesn't panic.

It would help if she had along a friend or assistant to look after her camera bag when she's working. You never know where thieves or the overly curious lurk.

Oh, resist the temptation to purchase one of the older (used and cheap) Vivitar 283 or 285 flash units. These are fine for non-dedicated cameras (film) but their trigger voltage is way too high for a modern camera and have been known to kill a digital camera or modern AF film camera. The current models of these flashes are low-voltage and perfectly safe to use on any camera. The older ones are great for remote use, however.
 
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Wow, that is a lot of info right there, thank you. All good points for sure.

She has done a few friends weddings in the past, just not digital. This event in particular will be very small and low-key, not the usual monster size event many folks have. But the idea of keeping an eye on the gearbag is a good one, thanks for the reminder.
 
SB-600 here on my Nikon. It takes a little getting used to, as they all do, but it will flat make a lot of light. I think the 800 has more capabilities but little or no more light output. Dunno about the newer models but a little bit of investigation would be indicated. B&H has quite a bit of info at their site on products they sell. bhphotovideo.com

It looks like the SB-900 replaced the 800 but twice as much dough as the 600.

Murray
 
Unless she plans on using a dedicated flash often I would recommend renting instead of buying. Should a used one for a good price come along then I would certainly consider the investment.

I used to shoot a lot of weddings and the flash was the most important accessory. I kept two flash units and several pc sync cords in my bag at all times. I still have my Vivitar 283 I bought back in in 1976 when I was in college and then purchased a Vivitar 285. The best addition to my camera bag was the Quantum battery packs that allowed fast recycling times and allowed me to shoot all day and all night without having to recharge. It still holds a charge and works great even after all these years, as do both flash units.

If your daughter decides to get a flash for her camera I would strongly recommend a Stroboframe Quick Flip 350 flash bracket. It takes the flash off of the lens axis and adds better modeling, can eliminate hard background shadows, and greatly reduces and/or eliminates "redeye" without having to turn on the "redeye" reduction feature on the flash which I always found to be very annoying.
 
i almost always use the Nikon remote cord with my Nikon SB300. Other than adding a second light, which is a hassle when shooting fast and solo, without an assistant, getting the flash off the line of the camera lens axis is the biggest difference you can make in the look of your images.
 
Hi Oldskull*!

*joke :tears:

mmmh, the SB-900 is here in Gpoint 200€ / 240$ more expensive then the SB-800, what is a phantastic flash.......

You have to decide yourself if you want to pay for this:
+ Update possibility
+ DX-/FX-Mode (D700!!!!)
+ Lightingtempolatese (Standard/Flat/Middle)
+ enhanced Zoomreflecor range
+ sealed
+ Overheat- and wetness protection
+ automatic recognition of used filter and whitepoint adjustment
+ a real on/off switch (as it looks on the pics)
+ loads with 4 AA-cells as fast as SB-800 with 5

that price! But in THIS case you also should think about another camera :) D700 for example?

it would be double price to buy a SB900 here in Gpoint instead of a like new used SB-800


All the People talking about the oldschool flashes: they only work manual and all iTTL advantage is for the cat (as we say her in G.)

But:
I gotta warn you... the D200 has an annoying way to flash, it is set to do foreflashes, and didn't find out how to shut this off... not even calling Nikon helped.


Anyway, I'd get me a used SB-600 or SB-800, with the 5th cell adapter and bouncer (If I hadn't already...)





But is the "lots expensiver" warranted on the 900?

Sometimes when a new model comes out, it has features and abilities the one before simply doesnt have.

I realize most people dwell on price, but if Im going to spend cold cash on a flash Id really like to get her what is the best as she will be keeping/using it for quite some time. I guees to me, once Im in the 350+ price range, I dont mind spending another 100 or more to get the best if that is the case.
 
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If your daughter decides to get a flash for her camera I would strongly recommend a Stroboframe Quick Flip 350 flash bracket. It takes the flash off of the lens axis and adds better modeling, can eliminate hard background shadows, and greatly reduces and/or eliminates "redeye" without having to turn on the "redeye" reduction feature on the flash which I always found to be very annoying.

I forgot to mention that. I've always used one and it's almost a necessity if you use a mini softbox. Plus it gives a nice secure hand grip AND can be used, in a pinch, as a bracket atop a stand.
 
I am a professional wedding photographer......as far as the flash is concerned I rely on the Quantum flash heads t4-d or t5-d with a flash bracket ( to help prevent redeye or shadows ) they are powerful enough to light up a large wedding party in a dark church . If you are doing the whole wedding the smaller camera mount flash will not cut it. especially if you do shots that are far away 15-20 feet or if you need to light up a dark room ( church or reception hall at night ) If you do small close ups a camera mount may work O.K. but power becomes a concern as the flash will eat batteries like snacks. The lower batteries get the longer the recycle time also Keep in mind a wedding requires hundreds of pictures . For this a battery pack like a quantum turbo is needed...it will last all day with no problems. recycle times under 1 second. If you are taking on the responsibility of photographing a wedding you must know your gear and its limitations....also it must be RELIABLE you cant have it go down on you because it WILL be at the worst possible time. You have to know your gear enough to make adjustments in the dark. You have to be creative and consistent with exposures all while people are breathing down your neck and telling you to hurry up. .... You could use a small flash if you had a few others on light stands around the room triggered by a infra red transmitter they would light up the room a bit and the camera would light your subjects. Vivitar 283's work good for this they are reliable and cheap but they will also need battery packs .
 
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something like the SB-28 I think or newer.. but tall and powerfull the newest ones are the sb-600 and 900 which are most likely going to give you the newest metering sytems.. I had a SB-28 that is an older model but probbaly has most of what you need.. those are probably around used for a decent deal.. but you need tall so you dont get red eye and power so it will work beyond the typical 10 feet that most cheep flashes are only good for. also these probably zoom the head just a bit too so if you are using a wider lens they spread.. or more tele.. they narrow

other things that are important and more of a given on bigger flashes.. is recycle time.. you dont want to miss a picture because the flash wasnt ready..

if she is going to do this on a regular basis.. probably the 900 will allow for external power supplies that will allow instant recharging of the flash and also keep from having to change batteries as often..

i didnt really get into great detail in my first post.. but the jist is get teh best you can now.. the higher end flashes will allow you to add power packs and all the rest of the stuff people have mentioned.. if this is a hobby then dropping serious coin on all the stuff people have suggested right now may not be possible.

getting a good flash now that can grow is the minimum, also a good flash is just important if you want to be a serious hobbiest anyway.

the biggest thing for your daughter? i think I read that.. is that a wedding is this person most important day and there are no redo's .. even if the friend is not paying her and she is doing it as a favor.. remember no good deed goes unpunished.

if she likes doing this then the power packs and the flash sinc cords and the flash grips and the slave flashes.. and diffusers can come as needed and understood.. just make sure you get items that can grow with her.

and maybe the pro wedding photographers can shed more light.. but she needs to make a list of pictures the wedding party wants.. and that she wants to get, this way nothing important gets forgoten.
 
An SB-800 would be fine.

The main limitation this unit has is it's not powerful enough for outside large group shots when you don't want the sky blown out. It won't light a large group at f16 from 15-20 ft. And maybe large group shots in the church if there is bright/funky alter light. All she has to do is get on a step ladder and shoot down to eliminate the sky.

Any other application and she will be okay. She will need 3 sets min. of 5 2500mAh AA batteries to get through the ( 10 hour) day. She won't need any external power supply.

Only they don't make the SB-800 anymore. And mine burned out bulbs once a season/80 weddings. So a used one will have to be serviced.

The SB-900 is sweet. Only 4 2650 AA batteries and I swap once per day. Bring extras anyway. It recycles faster. Bigger flash so it's less contrasty. It's big and soft. I have had it shut down once because it was overheated. It is heavier and bulkier and more powerful. The flash head swivels 360 degrees.

She will need to use the Nikon diffuser only. 99% of the time she will bounce the flash back over her shoulder off the ceiling or wall. Flash on a bracket with the dedicated SC-29 sync cord.

The real limitation is the Nikon D200. She can only shoot realistically at 640.
So she will be limited when trying to capture ambient light for the dance floor/room shots. She doesn't need a powerhouse for a flash. She needs to be able to open the camera up to 1000 - 1250. Or double light everything.

If money wasn't an option she should consider the D300 with the SB-900. And the D200 would be the back-up or sell it. With the D300 she can open it up to 1000 or 1250 and pick up the ambient room light. The SB-900 can then be set to Fill Flash and she will get great results.

If your wife has any questions don't hesitate to pm.

ISO 800, F4, 1/80. D300 and SB-900 w/stock diffuser on a bracket, TTL and set to Fill Flash mode, bounced over my shoulder off the ceiling/wall. The same can be done with the D200 and SB-800. But at ISO 800 she will be pushing it.
 
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I am a professional wedding photographer......as far as the flash is concerned I rely on the Quantum flash heads t4-d or t5-d with a flash bracket ( to help prevent redeye or shadows ) they are powerful enough to light up a large wedding party in a dark church . If you are doing the whole wedding the smaller camera mount flash will not cut it. especially if you do shots that are far away 15-20 feet or if you need to light up a dark room ( church or reception hall at night ) If you do small close ups a camera mount may work O.K. but power becomes a concern as the flash will eat batteries like snacks. The lower batteries get the longer the recycle time also Keep in mind a wedding requires hundreds of pictures . For this a battery pack like a quantum turbo is needed...it will last all day with no problems. recycle times under 1 second. If you are taking on the responsibility of photographing a wedding you must know your gear and its limitations....also it must be RELIABLE you cant have it go down on you because it WILL be at the worst possible time. You have to know your gear enough to make adjustments in the dark. You have to be creative and consistent with exposures all while people are breathing down your neck and telling you to hurry up. .... You could use a small flash if you had a few others on light stands around the room triggered by a infra red transmitter they would light up the room a bit and the camera would light your subjects. Vivitar 283's work good for this they are reliable and cheap but they will also need battery packs .

Except she wants to it simple and cheap. Sounds like she's doing it for a friend who can't afford the real thing. Let's hope she reads the suggested material and pays attention to the advice current and former pros are offering.

I used Sunpak heads and optical slaves. I had a few problems with infrared slaves due to some sort of fire detectors that would randomly set the flashes off. I thought I was nuts or the place was haunted. When I switched to my Wein optical slave triggers the problems went away.

I go back to the days of the Honeywell "potato masher" flashes and the battery packs that seemed to weigh 15 pounds. They were beasts but got the job done.
 
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