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No sound from my IA 2232 amplifier

B

BarbBklyn

New Member
Hi -

I hope I can get advice. We purchased a Marantz system in the late '80's and it gave us many years of good service. For the last few years it sat unused. We recently relocated and I want to get it set up in our new digs.

When I hooked if up there is no sound. I tested the speakers (not Marantz, Pioneer) with a battery and they are working. I trimmed the leads and reinserted. All the lights turn on.

Is there anything to be done? Can it be tested/troubleshoot simply at home for an amateur?

All advice appreciated, thank you in advance.

Barbara
 
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BarbBklyn said:
Hi -

I hope I can get advice. We purchased a Marantz system in the late '80's and it gave us many years of good service. For the last few years it sat unused. We recently relocated and I want to get it set up in our new digs.

When I hooked if up there is no sound. I tested the speakers (not Marantz, Pioneer) with a battery and they are working. I trimmed the leads and reinserted. All the lights turn on.

Is there anything to be done? Can it be tested/troubleshoot simply at home for an amateur?

All advice appreciated, thank you in advance.

Barbara
Click to expand...
Hi Barb & welcome to AK! If your amp is an integrated , i.e. preamp/ power amp such as a 1060, it likely has pre-out & main-in RCA jacks on back panel. That being the case, these must be jumpered channel-for-channel. Reason for their presence is to use either section separately with other gear. Here's a butt-shot of my 1060 for clarification with my homemade jumpers installed. Note orientation. Also, be sure tape monitor switch is set to 'source' or 'out'. Investigate, report findings. I hope all that stuff awakens to your satisfaction! Jerry
Edit: for improvised jumpers, just use the shortest interconnect (dual RCA ends), as your stock jumpers are likely long gone.
 

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Update: I just web-searched your equipment. Disregard my blathering on the jumpers, yours doesn't have separate jacks as postulated. Yo likely will have to double-check your controls & connections & quite likely the switches, pots, etc inside will need a squirting with an appropriate contact cleaner. There's a very expansive thread on this subject elsewhere in the general audio forum, "the idiot's guide to using deoxit " on this site. You don't have to use the exact products mentioned, you can find suitable substitutes in most hardware stores.
 
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the amount of help people can give on this amplifier is going to be pretty limited because there doesn't seem to be a schematic for it online.

that being said there is probably one or a pair of fuses on the inside of the amplifier that could have blown, that's what I would check.
 
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Tala Mink said:
the amount of help people can give on this amplifier is going to be pretty limited because there doesn't seem to be a schematic for it online.

that being said there is probably one or a pair of fuses on the inside of the amplifier that could have blown, that's what I would check.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this advice. How complicated is it to identify a blown fuse? Is it easy to obtain replacement fuses? Do you know what they typically cost? I am trying to get an idea how much time and effort this project might be, before I commit myself to doing it. Thanks in advance.
 
BarbBklyn said:
H


Thank you for this advice. How complicated is it to identify a blown fuse? Is it easy to obtain replacement fuses? Do you know what they typically cost? I am trying to get an idea how much time and effort this project might be, before I commit myself to doing it. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Fuses are cheap, can be sourced from your local hardware store in all likelihood. You can check easily with any type of continuity tester such as a multimeter or a self-powered test light. Does the unit in question light up at all? If yes, the power fuse obviously is good. No lights, bad fuse likely.
 
a lot of amplifiers have fuses for the audio output of the amplifier that blow if overdriven and save the amp. the amp will probably work if this is replaced.

less likely are fuses that supply the power to each channel of the amplifier board that usually blow if a component is bad. the amp will probably not work if this is replaced.

both would result in a silent channel but still allow the amp to power on.
 
Thank you Catmanboo and Tala. Yes the unit powers on, and indicates which component is selected, and the plugs power other units. I am probably not going to pursue this until next weekend, but I will keep you posted.
 
No sound at all and having just been moved, and with the symptoms as above, I would suspect a button on the front panel not having been pressed (like speakers 'A 'or 'B), or one of the input selector buttons in a row on the right. Or a cable connection issue at the rear of the unit. :idea:
 
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