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Official Jolida JD9 thread

mikey5967 said:
Guys,

I'm wondering if anyone is using a Stanton 881 cart with the Jolida J9 preamp.

I'm using this setup into my new Rega Elex R.

I'm running the Jolida with the dip switch settings for 47K and 220 PF, per Stanton recommendation. Stanton actually reco's 275 PF, but the Jolida's closest match is 220.

I have replaced the cheap op amps with the much better Burr Browns, and I'm using two 1960s Sylvania Gold Brand 5751s.

While it sounds VERY, very good, what I'm noticing is that treble seems to be too extended. When I lower the stylus onto the record, I'm hearing every bit of the groove noise, DEFINETLY more than if I plugged the Turntable into the Rega Elex R directly.

I changed load to 1000 instead of 47K, No good! Killed ALL the highs. So, back to 47K

I've added some capacitance, that seemed to help a little. I might go more on that.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Mick
Click to expand...

The capacitor switches are in parallel, so you can switch on multiple caps and add them,for example: 220 pf and 47 pf will give you 267pf (essentially 270 pf).

Capacitance loading can be tricky. The 220 pf on your phone stage, plus the capacitance of the phono cable is the real load that the Stanton is seeing. It’s probably over 300 pf, which is fine. If you like it, leave it.

Resistive loading is definitely 47k for most all MM and MI cartridges, although some can sound “better” when loaded down (Grado comes to mind).

Resistors in parallel do not add. If you select multiple resistor switches to “on” the equivalent resistance is 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/Rx …
 
mastabassa said:
i just won an auction for the jd9, i took the metal tube holders off, the tubes are already mullard, any other must have upgrades for this? also im lost re: setting the back up, i have a grado black2 cart
  • Output: 4 Mv (needs no step-up device)
  • Frequency response: 10-55,000Hz
  • Channel Separation: 25dB, 10-3000Hz
  • Stylus: diamond elliptical
  • Input load: 47,000 ohms
  • DC Resistance: 475 ohms
these are my cart specs, should i be using the hi or lo output?
Click to expand...

Low output, all gain switch down, experiment with only gain switch 1 up or down. Pick the setting you like. Always have volume down, or mute on, when you flip theses switches.

High output is for moving coil.
 
mastabassa said:
i just won an auction for the jd9, i took the metal tube holders off, the tubes are already mullard, any other must have upgrades for this? also im lost re: setting the back up, i have a grado black2 cart
  • Output: 4 Mv (needs no step-up device)
  • Frequency response: 10-55,000Hz
  • Channel Separation: 25dB, 10-3000Hz
  • Stylus: diamond elliptical
  • Input load: 47,000 ohms
  • DC Resistance: 475 ohms
these are my cart specs, should i be using the hi or lo output?
Click to expand...
Have the cartridge capacitance load set correctly as well...they are to the right of the Ohm dips (looking at the preamp from behind)...it won't sound right until you have both of those settings set correctly.

You can put in the BrownBurr 627 ops amps as well.

Don't get discouraged you will figure out how to make it sound nice it just takes time. I have the Russian made Mullard 12AU7s instead of the 12AX7s.

Just see what sounds better with either the low or high outputs for you.
 
icenine said:
Have the cartridge capacitance load set correctly as well...they are to the right of the Ohm dips (looking at the preamp from behind)...it won't sound right until you have both of those settings set correctly.

You can put in the BrownBurr 627 ops amps as well.

Don't get discouraged you will figure out how to make it sound nice it just takes time. I have the Russian made Mullard 12AU7s instead of the 12AX7s.

Just see what sounds better with either the low or high outputs for you.
Click to expand...
hmm i cant find the capacitance load for my cartridge, i have the chart for the dip switches, it says i should have all the gain off with the output of my cart according to this site http://www.kabusa.com/pregain.htm
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...465/full&lightbox=1&last_edit_date=1546657009
 
mastabassa said:
hmm i cant find the capacitance load for my cartridge, i have the chart for the dip switches, it says i should have all the gain off with the output of my cart according to this site http://www.kabusa.com/pregain.htm
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...465/full&lightbox=1&last_edit_date=1546657009
Click to expand...
Do you have the spec sheet for your cartridge? That is where I got mine...my AT-VM95 recommended load capacitance is 100-200pf...look for the same spec for yours.
Mine sounded great when I set pf dips to this.
 
icenine said:
Do you have the spec sheet for your cartridge? That is where I got mine...my AT-VM95 recommended load capacitance is 100-200pf...look for the same spec for yours.
Mine sounded great when I set pf dips to this.
Click to expand...
apparently the grado doesnt have a load capacitance
 
Upgrade bypass caps first, then BB 627's, power cord, vintage Telefunken 12AX7's, solid silver interconnects, interior damping, Herbie's Tender Feet.
 
which bypass caps did you go with? im having a bit of trouble finding the obbligato, also i havent heard about the interconnects, is there a link for a diy on that?
 
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I just bought Obbligato ultra premium caps the other day at partsconnexion.com. I would refer to them as output caps. A bypass would be a smaller value cap in parallel with them. A lot of people will replace the 1uf output caps with the Obbligatos or Clarity caps, and then in parallel, add a small value cap like a .01uf Vishay MKP-1837 as well. Look through this thread and you'll find a ton of pics showing this. I think I did an MKP-1839 with my Clarity ESA, but I don't recall hearing much of a difference. I ended up taking them back out and just going with the Claritys. Clarity ESA are like 5 bucks, Obbligatos are 10. In my opinion, do the caps, and the op amps next. Mine have LT1028 in the right and middle positions, with BB 627s in the left. (viewing from the front.)
 
just ordered 2x obbligato 1uf and some .01 vishays, i had ordered the op amps earlier but i went with all TI 627, im googling the lt1028 but a few different ones pop up, which ones did you get exactly? and what is the benifit of going 1028 vs 627 iyo? also i have some knuconceptz sound dampening CLD leftover from my car, would this work inside the amp?
 
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1028s are cheaper. I would stay with the 627s. I'm sure the sound deadening would work. I just had a sheet, cut it up in pieces and stuck in various locations to deaden resonance.
 
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