A nice side by side comparison with the LaScala,sGetting closer...
I was just thinking about these the other day and was hoping they’d arrived. Glad they made it! Let us know what you think when you get a chance to enjoy them a while.View attachment 1804310 View attachment 1804311 View attachment 1804312
got a single set up last night...still need to attach the XOs and set up the horn brackets.
Is that a custom made Xover?I was just thinking about these the other day and was hoping they’d arrived. Glad they made it! Let us know what you think when you get a chance to enjoy them a while.
Yes it is a modified z19 to work with the 16ohm drivers. Initial impressions are pretty great! I will know more once in stereo and some time to adjust for room acoustics.
Do you happen to have a schematic with the values you used?
Looking for woofer options for a set of Onken cabinets. I currently have two different paths I can go.
Originally I thought about using my 605b with the original N-1600-d, but then I thought it would be nice to repurpose a set of DIY A7s. The A7s have 515b , 511b / 802d drivers crossed with n-500g.
The Onken design is a 360L birch design. Any pros or cons using either driver would be greatly appreciated. Or should I be looking at more classic cabinet designs?
So I have decided on the Onken... has anyone successfully front mounted older 515b drivers with the raised ribs? The cabinet builder is saying we can reset and cut notches for front mounting vs adding a rear access panel. Does anyone have experience using either method?
best
I am still interested in the performance of the Bass Response, with these Onkens
and 515b’s. Particularly sub 40 cps! Bass.
Is there any? I know the Onkens were designed for 416 8b’s, a very different speaker
Most of the gang with 604’s, specifically the newer 16” frames say a 10 cu ft cab + is required for better Bass response
Bobhorn
Like you said, a good cabinet/furniture could do some things to shore up everything else in the construction to allow a rear removable panel. I am doing the same right now in another cabinet design where I want to be able to get in optional ways. My rear panel is centered on the back panel between braces and I used inset nuts so in taking it on and off I don't wear it out at all. You will likely get some flack from purists of the Onken that it ruins the intended purpose of the Onken which is stability. Again, a good woodworker can strengthen some of the other joinery to make up for it I would think. That's my feeling anyway.
Or, sell off the 515 and get 416 or even 604 etc.
I am about to embark on doing the petite Onken. I want to be able to try different 12" drivers including the 414 and 601. I may also consider using HDF. Damn ply is getting really expensive, especially the stuff recommended for the onken.