Open Cassette Surgery

[gnexus]

While repairing my Nakamichi 480 it ate one of my tapes. No big deal really. It's just a copy of a CD I have. I can always re-record it eventually if needed. I straightened out the tape. But then it was binding badly at both ends from the mangled tape protruding slightly on the hubs.

I don't want to kill any more tapes. So I still need the tape for testing my 580. In addition, new Maxell XL-S II tapes are now $25+. So I decided "Open Cassette Surgery" was the best option. It definitely wasn't as easy as expected. I had to cut off both leaders and quite a bit of tape at both ends. It kept breaking on one hub when replacing the hub clamp.

Now it works great!
But I'm afraid of it breaking at either end. So I can't let it get to the end...

Does anyone here have experience splicing in a new leader? If so, what's the best CHEAP source for new leaders? What's the best adhesive splice tape and CHEAP tools for the job?

Thanks in advance for any hints.

 

[Bradbrews]

Reuse the leader from either that tape or a donor.
Buy some actual splicing tape, it’s not expensive and will last you forever. Other tapes can ooze the sticky stuff and make a mess on adjacent wraps.
Then just use a single edged razor blade to cut the tape. You could 3D print a guide if you wanted to.

 

[YY1]

I had this happen a couple of times back in the day.

I simply left it and never had an issue with the tape breaking because the leader was gone.

There's nothing left of the original leads to splice back in, though?

 

[gnexus]

Reuse the leader from either that tape or a donor.
Buy some actual splicing tape, it’s not expensive and will last you forever. Other tapes can ooze the sticky stuff and make a mess on adjacent wraps.
Then just use a single edged razor blade to cut the tape. You could 3D print a guide if you wanted to.

Thanks for your comments

But I already knew that much. I guess I should have been more specific:

1) Is there a specific CHEAP tape brand that's HIGH QUALITY that I could use for the leader? (The leader and subsequent length of tape afterwards was the part that was binding on both ends. So it's trashed.)

2) I would NEVER consider anything other than real splicing tape. But is there a better low cost one, or are the available choices very limited?

3) Is there a low cost splice block available for purchase? Or is there an easy way to make one?(I don't have a 3-D printer)

4) Cassette tape is very thin and fragile. It loves to curl when working with it. Are there any specific recommended techniques for the procedure? (Sorry. I haven't had time yet to look for videos)

 

[gnexus]

I had this happen a couple of times back in the day.

I simply left it and never had an issue with the tape breaking because the leader was gone.

There's nothing left of the original leads to splice back in, though?

The tape already broke THREE times after snapping on the clamp. Well functioning Nakamichi's really slam the tape at the ends on REW & FF! The tape will definitely either break or slip from the clamps then without a thicker leader at the ends. Won't take more chances...

No. The leaders were part of the section that got mangled.

 

[gnexus]

It also seems I have a TDK MA 110 tape that was broken long ago. Those are quite expensive now. That makes this thread much more relevant. Fortunately it wasn't broken at the leader.

 

[Bradbrews]

For breaks in the middle of the tape I usually open it up and extract the ends. Then I put the case back together and splice it.
The case goes a long way towards containing the curly tape and can minimize how much you have to wind back up.

 

[gnexus]

Another bad tape!

This one is my test tone tape.
Nakamichi Ferricobalt SX-90.
It's mangled at first window marker on right (what do those marker lines mean? Never really cared until now.. Obviously they're time markers. But what's the divisions? There's 5. Is it 45/5=9 mins?)

 

[dankik]

I've never had my Nak snap the lead off of a tape. You can get splicing blocks for 1/8" cassette tapes on Amazon. They also have splicing tape. I personally would stay away from the plastic splicing blocks. You can also get leader tape in different thickness.

If a tape breaks in the middle of the tape on Play/FF/RW, then you may have too much tension on the tape. Check to make sure the reel brakes are working correctly.

 

[gnexus]

I've never had my Nak snap the lead off of a tape.

Neither have I. But the tape in question currently has no leads and the hub clamps are quite loose on the thinner tape instead of the leaders. I have no doubt the tape would either slip loose or break if it hit the end on FF or REW

If a tape breaks in the middle of the tape on Play/FF/RW, then you may have too much tension on the tape. Check to make sure the reel brakes are working correctly.

The reel brakes are fine. The tapes in question were either already mangled or already broken.

But, on a different subject regarding tapes & tape tension, the 580 reel hubs seem loose in the tape hubs like the cassette isn't positioned far enough rearward, and then sometimes the tape vibrates in all modes. Sometimes the tape stops, especially in REW, due to that when it wouldn't in the 480. It gets much worse with sticky tapes. However that's all a different subject for a different thread...