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Operation/user manual for Technics SL-1700MK2

Turbokeu said:
The 'American standard' O-rings (5 pieces) in replacement of the original 'cueing belt' are on their way (thanks to hakaplan).

Since the SL-1700MK2 was again dimantled (I had a little problem with the right channel audio output) I used my time to execute some 'mods'. ;)
1st mod: Replace the seven original 5mm red LEDs of the strobo by 5mm blue LEDs. After testing I noticed that the luminosity of the strobo with the new blue LEDs was quite lower than before.
A couple of measurings indicated that the power supply for the strobo LEDs was about +20V, too less for 7x blue LEDs (7x 3.4V=23.8V).
I removed two of the seven LEDs and replaced their location by a wire bridge (5 blue LEDs = 5x 3.4V=17V). Together with the 120R original series resistor the luminosity is now perfect.

2nd mod: Replace the middle 5x2mm green LED of the pitch display by a 5x2mm blue LED.
This was a much more difficult operation as the 13 LEDs (6x red-1x green-6x red) are glued together in a 'holder' and soldered to the control board.
Therefore I desoldered the 13 LEDs, removed the glue, and replaced the green LED by a blue one (+ a hole in my thumb :().
The luminosity of the new 5x2mm LED, together with the original 100R series resistor, was eyeblinding.
First I tried a 470R resistor, and then a 1K2 resistor.
Much better but I 'feel' that 2K2 would be perfect.

I'm not keen to dismantle everything again for that little 2K2 resistor, I will wait the repainting of the aluminum upper chassis (hint to the color: http://www.motip.com/index.php?page=30&id=51&lid=709).

Enough talking, let's see some pictures! ;)


CD :)

PS: Afterwards I searched for about a hour why my auto return/auto stop feature didn't work anymore.
The 'auto return on/off' push button was simply turned off...:(

PS2: On the second and fourth picture you can see some scratches in the silver painting. This is why I intend to repaint the TT.
Click to expand...

The blue replacement LEDs look great!:thmbsp: So far I've only replaced the stylus illuminator bulb with 2 blue LEDs on my 1800Mk2 (surprised you haven't). That pitch LED sounds kinda tricky. Now that I see how good yours turned out, I'll be copycatting very soon. Nice work!!:thmbsp: :D

Jeff
 
Thanks!

The fact that the original 7x red LEDs are replaced by only 5x blue LEDs is no problem since actual LEDs are much brighter than the old '70 years red LEDs (and I even used diffused LEDs because that's what I had laying around).

The middle pitch LED is indeed a bitch to replace but it is worth it IMHO.
I should have taken pictures of the swap procedure...
First remove the solder on the 26 solder pads of the 13 LEDs with a desoldering pump and desoldering braid (this is the easy part).
Remove the LEDs as a whole in their black holder.
The LEDs are originally inserted from the back of the holder and glued together on their wire side.
With a cutter/Xacto knife remove as much as possible of the glue on the middle green LED and the two adjacent red LEDs.
When done push the middle green LED with a screwdriver out of the holder (that's where I found myself with the screwdriver half a centimeter in my thumb...).
Now its just a matter of inserting the new blue 5x2mm LED (do not invert the anode/cathode wires), insert the holder and all LED wires again through their original solder pads, adjust height/position of the middle blue LED, and solder back the connections.
After power on you can estimate from the relative brightness between the original red LEDs and the new blue LED if the 100R serial resistor R443 on the control board has to be adapted to a new value and replaced.

I will swap the stylus illuminator bulb for sure as soon I have a white high brightness wide angle (160°) SMD mounting LED (easier to mount in the illuminator housing).

CD :)
 
Turbokeu said:
Thanks!

The fact that the original 7x red LEDs are replaced by only 5x blue LEDs is no problem since actual LEDs are much brighter than the old '70 years red LEDs (and I even used diffused LEDs because that's what I had laying around).

The middle pitch LED is indeed a bitch to replace but it is worth it IMHO.
I should have taken pictures of the swap procedure...
First remove the solder on the 26 solder pads of the 13 LEDs with a desoldering pump and desoldering braid (this is the easy part).
Remove the LEDs as a whole in their black holder.
The LEDs are originally inserted from the back of the holder and glued together on their wire side.
With a cutter/Xacto knife remove as much as possible of the glue on the middle green LED and the two adjacent red LEDs.
When done push the middle green LED with a screwdriver out of the holder (that's where I found myself with the screwdriver half a centimeter in my thumb...).
Now its just a matter of inserting the new blue 5x2mm LED (do not invert the anode/cathode wires), insert the holder and all LED wires again through their original solder pads, adjust height/position of the middle blue LED, and solder back the connections.
After power on you can estimate from the relative brightness between the original red LEDs and the new blue LED if the 100R serial resistor R443 on the control board has to be adapted to a new value and replaced.

I will swap the stylus illuminator bulb for sure as soon I have a white high brightness wide angle (160°) SMD mounting LED (easier to mount in the illuminator housing).

CD :)
Click to expand...
I really like what you did with yours. I wonder what a black light would look like or if it would be to dark. Just curious as to why you bought your dustcover from 1200.com vs the link I sent you? Did it have something to do with overseas shipping? I noticed your platter looks like mine did till i cleaned it up seems like most of them suffer from neglect and lacking of cleaning from previous owners. I'm pulling mine this weekend and priming and painting the strobe ring. Keep the posts and pics coming:yes:
 
Thanks Stanton681EEES!

I have a couple of dozens of UV/black light LEDs and I can tell you they put a (visibly) very weak purple light.
They work very well on white paper and any fluorescent object, but they are really unusable as strobe light on a platter.

partstore.com does indeed not ship to Europe so I had to order the dustcover from 1200s.com.

My platter looks okay, I cleaned it with a tootbrush and an industrial cleaning product (I can't remember if the pics above where made before or after the platter cleaning, probably before).

As told before I have to make pics of every part that I dismantle for the painting job to be able to put it all together correctly, therefore pics WILL follow. ;)

CD :)
 
I forgot to mention in my earlier post as it was early when I posted, that maybe the blacklight would look good against a black background and since I'm painting my strobe ring black it just poped into my head. Probably wouldn't work, was just a thought though
Turbokeu said:
Thanks Stanton681EEES!

I have a couple of dozens of UV/black light LEDs and I can tell you they put a (visibly) very weak purple light.
They work very well on white paper and any fluorescent object, but they are really unusable as strobe light on a platter.

partstore.com does indeed not ship to Europe so I had to order the dustcover from 1200s.com.

My platter looks okay, I cleaned it with a tootbrush and an industrial cleaning product (I can't remember if the pics above where made before or after the platter cleaning, probably before).

As told before I have to make pics of every part that I dismantle for the painting job to be able to put it all together correctly, therefore pics WILL follow. ;)

CD :)
Click to expand...
 
Turbokeu said:
I ordered a new SL-1200 dustcover from www.1200s.com.
I hope that the little anti-scratch rubber dampers in both the front corners of the cover are included (I'm missing one on the original cover, cause of some scratches onto the silver paint of the chassis).
Click to expand...
Is there anyone here that could confirm the presence of these little rubber dampers in the front corners of a new dustcover? (still waiting for my cover from 1200s.com to arrive).
I also ordered a real SL-1700MK2 Service Manual ($16.99) from www.manuals-in-pdf.com.
Click to expand...
The real SL-1700MK2 service manual is now in my possesion. :banana:

In the meanwhile I bought a second hand Ortofon VMS20E cartridge with a near mint stylus, and a spare NOS D20E stylus.
My audioquest headshell leads arrived too, as well as the original Technics SWF0010 spindle oil from KAB.

I did a repaint job on the original Technics (black) headshell to test out the Motip "Special Trends Silent Purple' colour for the plinth.
On the left a (too heavy) silver headshell from ebay with the VMS20E mounted, on the right the repainted black Technics headshell:
pict0028.jpg

The weight difference between the two headshells is about 2.24gr (6.82gr vs. 9.06gr), therefore I will stick to the lighter Technics headshell.
Also, the Motip 'Silent Purple' paint is not purple enough to my taste, so I bought two other Motip colours: Special Trends 'Metallic Violet' and 'Mystic Violet' to try out (and Motip white primer + transparent satin varnish).

CD :)
 
OK!
>>> Bump <<<
It's a couple of years later now, what happened? We are waiting for the pictures ; )
 
A note!

Don't get rid of that Concorde Pro. Install an OM 10-OM 40 stylus on it and you have an OM series plug and play cart with versatile stylus options. It's a nice cartridge. I would love to see Ortofon make a 1-2 gram VTF conical for the OM line and Pro line.
 
Much2learn said:
Could anyone briefly summarize what the differences are between the 1700 and the 1700 MK2?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Briefly? Doubtful. They are pretty much 2 completely different 'tables. But I'm sure that someone will be along briefly to prove me wrong.:D

The Mk2 has quartz lock, a different arm, and adjustable VTA. Also a different control arrangement. They are both nice turntables, but I think the Mk2 is marginally superior.
 
Last edited:
Go to Vinyl Engine

Manuals for both versions are there. You can get a brief synopsis by selecting the SL1700 in the library section.
 
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