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Opinions on KLH Model 5

Dave1384 said:
PBDA,
I assume you have read through this thread. Since you have two, I thought I would ask. The pair I found today require a least 1, perhaps 2 higher volume settings. Do these really require that much more input? Thanks. Also, if the shop examined them, can they tell by a test if work needs to be done? Thanks.
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When you say "higher volume settings", are you referring to having to turn up your amp's volume control to drive them? These are relatively inefficient acoustic suspension speakers, so yes, you do need to turn it up.

Any decent tech should be able to test the drivers to determine if they are OK. I've found that in every case when I was getting no output out of the tweeters, the problem was the crossover.
 
PBDA,
Your first paragraph: Yes. Second: He said the tweets are fine, maybe refoam the woofers That is costly, he says. All of the pictures I have seen, they look the same. I will just accept what I have and listen. Thanks.
I know they were expensive, but why does everyone ( seemingly) rave about them? Your comment about inefficiency is true. I don't like cranking my amps up to 11 o'clock. Even my AU 417. Thanks.
 
There are few speakers that do not have some issues at the crossover frequencies. The 5s exhibit virtually no problem. The result is that the midrange that is usually split between 2 drivers in a 3-way system exhibit virtually none of the problems 3-ways can exhibit. With the 2 mids the balance between the the 3 driver (woofer, mids and highs) are very balanced and no driver overpowers the presentation. The mids also are some of the better in terms of vocals. The woofer for a AS design comes closer than others of the time and that preceded it to the articulation of a good infinite baffle woofer, not quite as good as the 12 but, close. Though cone tweeters seem to have a bad rep the 5 tweeter is very well matched to the presentation of the other drivers and is so nicely voiced to the mids it is almost amazing. Many speakers have a sonic discontinuity between the mids and highs due to the basic design of the drivers.

While not the most revealing and detailed it is just so very coherent and well mannered in the presentation it just is one of those special speakers, especially at the then asking price.

The speakers were designed to not be played hard and loud. No ferro-fluid and designed for a period in the Boston market when the BSO and Boston Pops was the standard for the music. A good 25 watt amp should give a good result. You can get a bit more dynamics with a 50 watter but not a more average listening spl.

IMHO, the 5 was a high point for KLH in their higher end lineup. Not quite a Twelve but more practical b/c of size and the direction persons were going in with their wanting smaller boxes.
 
Dave1384 said:
maybe refoam the woofers
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Dave, the woofers in the Model Five did not have foam surrounds. They have fabric surrounds, so they do not need to be refoamed (though some folks like to re-coat the fabric with an impermeable substance). If your Fives' woofers have foam surrounds, then they are not original.

And yes, they are inefficient. I drive mine with a Marantz 2325, which feels about right (OK, maybe a bit of overkill :D).
 
pbda said:
Dave, the woofers in the Model Five did not have foam surrounds. They have fabric surrounds, so they do not need to be refoamed (though some folks like to re-coat the fabric with an impermeable substance). If your Fives' woofers have foam surrounds, then they are not original.

And yes, they are inefficient. I drive mine with a Marantz 2325, which feels about right (OK, maybe a bit of overkill :D).[/QUOTE




Pbda,

I should not have quoted the guy. I guess he thought the fabric felt brittle.
My initial impression hearing them was that here was a better speaker for it's time, and delivers a complete package for what the manufacturer had in mind.. Don't go looking to rattle floors..... It's 1970..... And I don't. They're good for Dvorak, not Johnny Paycheck. ..... And, Brian, your posts are always informative.
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Just wanted to jump in on this thread as I have a pair of 5s bought new in early 70s. Tweeters are out & I assume from all the info they need recapped, but haven't pulled them to check yet. I got in on another thread in which someone gave a link to recapping 5s, but I haven't got the hang of navigating AK to exactly where I want to be yet.
I stack these 5s with a pair of Dyna A40XLs (had to replace the tweeters in those a while back) & drive them with an Adcom GFA2 (which also needs some work) preamped by a Marantz 2245. The setup has terrific imaging in a proper room.
Anyway, just interested in the recapping info for when I hopefully get around to doing it.
 
Recapping those Fives will almost certainly wake up the tweeters and midranges also. Cheap fix for awesome speakers. I'm down to one pair now, all had dead tweeters and bone dry woofer surrounds. Restoring them with the proper parts has made them sound the way they were designed. And they look great too.
 
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I'd love to hear a pair of the 5's. I own the 17's which I absolutely love, but, my recently purchased OLA's are auditioning at this very moment for playing time.
 
Hey all. Old thread, but why not revive it again. I just bought some KLH 5’s here in San Diego. I’ve heard them once before, but never owned a pair. Love the way they sound. I’m an avid OLA guy, and it’ll be nice to put these 5’s in the room after I service the crossover.
 
Terrific speakers designed to compete with the AR-3a’s, so they sit on in good company. Give them good high current power and you’ll be rewarded. Reseal the roofer surrounds and dust caps, and the mids surrounds, but not the dust caps. Buy the sealer eBay seller “vintage-ar” sells. It’s the closest to the original factory sealer you can get. If they are reticent sounding, there’s a good chance a recap is in order.
Congrats, Glenn
 
While more power is often better and in general AS type speakers are typically less efficient, the AS type of speakers was first released during the era of tubes-only. For example "Acoustic Research" and KLH were releasing their AS models in the 1950's when tubes at 20W/channel or less was most of what was available. I.e. Some AS designs sound great on 15 watts or more. More is better, but not always required for great sound.

I run my KLH Sixes (which are Acoustic Suspension) with a Fisher KX-100 Integrated Tube amp at about 18W/channel. It sounds sublime. I don't feel that I need or want more - and I listen to Rock and Roll at moderate levels. The combo has "thump" to it. I have a set of KLH Fives in the queue that I haven't tried out yet. Not sure what to expect with my amp.
 
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Tim D said:
While more power is often better and in general AS type speakers are typically less efficient, the AS type of speakers was first released during the era of tubes-only. For example "Acoustic Research" and KLH were releasing their AS models in the 1950's when tubes at 20W/channel or less was most of what was available. I.e. Some AS designs sound great on 15 watts or more. More is better, but not always required for great sound.

I run my KLH Sixes (which are Acoustic Suspension) with a Fisher KX-100 Integrated Tube amp at about 18W/channel. It sounds sublime. I don't feel that I need or want more - and I listen to Rock and Roll at moderate levels. The combo has "thump" to it. I have a set of KLH Fives in the queue that I haven't tried out yet. Not sure what to expect with my amp.
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I hear that all of the time and it is very true. But, they simply sound better with more. I also have a set of KLH 6s. The have been almost completely rebuilt and sound fantastic. At first I was running them with a 35 wpc unit. When I hooked them to my Sansui G5700 with 75 wpc, they were a completely different speaker. I have also had them on a Marantz 250, Sony 330ES along with a Kenwood KR 8010 at 125 wpc and they just eat up the power. My woofers have been reconed and refoamed with modern materials so I can push them harder than I could before they had the work done. But even so using at least 50 wpc+ makes them come alive.

The same goes for my Optimus 5s (KLH 5 clone). They will play nicely with 35 wpc or so but with 75 wpc or more they are incredible.

I use a set of Marantz Imperial 6s in my front rig most of the time and have run them with my Marantz 1060 and they sound beautiful. More power will get them louder, easier but not a huge difference in sound like AS speakers get with more power. The ported Imperials are easy to drive at around 93db and are great with tubes. Member @Lavane has a set he runs with flea watt tube amps with a lot of success.

It is easy to use less power when needed and difficult to get more out of the same amp if needed. Better to have it and not need it.
 
I have my Imperials hooked up to a 5.5wpc tube amp right now. While it doesn't shake the windows it still gets them pretty loud.
They have sounded good with low powered SE tube amps, higher powered PP tube amps and SS amps I have.
 
GD70 said:
Terrific speakers designed to compete with the AR-3a’s, so they sit on in good company. Give them good high current power and you’ll be rewarded. Reseal the roofer surrounds and dust caps, and the mids surrounds, but not the dust caps. Buy the sealer eBay seller “vintage-ar” sells. It’s the closest to the original factory sealer you can get. If they are reticent sounding, there’s a good chance a recap is in order.
Congrats, Glenn
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Thank you. I plan on doing exactly all of that
 
Also, if anyone here has any experience A/B’ing these with AR-3a’s, I’d love to read your thoughts about how they compare/differ (on-axis, I know they are pretty different once set off-axis) 3a’s are next on the list of speakers to buy, but that won’t be for a few months. Plenty of time to enjoy these on their own. I am very curious and excited to hear first hand how they compare to OLA’s.

Everything will be powered with a Kenwood KA-701, and ran through a Soundcraftsmen RP2212.
 
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GD70 said:
Terrific speakers designed to compete with the AR-3a’s, so they sit on in good company. Give them good high current power and you’ll be rewarded. Reseal the roofer surrounds and dust caps, and the mids surrounds, but not the dust caps. Buy the sealer eBay seller “vintage-ar” sells. It’s the closest to the original factory sealer you can get. If they are reticent sounding, there’s a good chance a recap is in order.
Congrats, Glenn
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Oh - I just did the surrounds on mine over the weekend but not the dust caps. Have a bit of dope left. So dont get it on the actual cap, just the cone immediately around them in a ring? Curious what the point of the dope is there?
 
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