shawnmgray
New Member
Hey Everyone- First Time Post. Been Lurking. So, I got a HH Scott, LK-72 last year, recapped it, almost works good. Decided I would set it back, and go through it further later. Then, I was at an estate sale and picked up a dirty Marantz 2245. Cleaned it, recapped the power board, and it works great. Right channel is a little quiet sometimes, needs a little deoxit. I just didn't own any at the time, and it works good enough I have not take the time to do it. So, my dad calls me up and says his neighbor has 2 old receivers, and Sansui and on he doesn't know. he gave them to my dad because neither works. Dad said he wants the Sansui, I can have the other one. So, he brings the receivers over. The Sansui is a G- 5000. We Dexited the pots, cleaned it up, and it works good enough for my dad. The FM doesn't work, he said he didn't care he was just going to use the AUX inputs anyways. He took it as it was- didn't want to leave it for me to recap because he lives 6 hours away.
So, the other receiver is the Optonica SA-5605. It is super dirty- I'll attach the pics. It would power on, come out of protection, but no sound. So, in all my wisdom (very little experience), I replaced the output transformers- that seems to be what I have seem recommended. The originals were a pair each of Hitachi 2SD675A's and 2SB655A's- replaced with MJ15003G and MJ15007G from Mouser- I think they are fine, maybe you guys will tell me they are the wrong ones. Changed those out, and still nothing from the receiver. But, I notice that the left channel meter is doing something, the right is dead. The receiver powers on, then the receiver has a separate switch to power on, and I can see the receiver is working form the stereo lights and meters. So, I started check the amplifier board.
Amplifier board. I lifted the legs of every resistor on one channel, the right one I believe. There are two things I found out. 1. I had the service manual for the SA-5606- They are nothing alike, the schematic is no good. 2. The very first resistor is open. I checked al the resistors. Here is the weird thing. Almost every 100 ohm resistor on the board is bad, like 860Kohm, of 745kOhm, they are all over the place. Now, I'm colorblind AF, so I am using my camera phone to illuminate, and try to decode all the resistors. I think I got them all correct, but some of those bands on a blue resistor are nearly impossible for me. Is that a grey band, violet?? green?? The other weird thing- if a resistor was bad on the right channel, it was typically bad on the left?? Does that make any sense? What would cause that?? I was wondering if it were struck by lightening. I ordered all the replacement resistors I found, and recapped the entire board. I don't remember the exact quantities, but the caps on the board were:
4.7uF at 16V
4.7uF at 63V
220uF at 16V
3.3uF at 25V
-I just ordered 10 of each to start a collection, and I believe that was all the eloctrolytics.
Got everything in, brought it up on the Variac, had the FM on. I have sound!! Sounds Great!! I mess with the Volume knob- falls into protection. Ok, so I power off and on, and get the same results. Auxiliary inputs are quiet, not as loud as the FM. I deoxit all the pots really good, set the idle current ( that is the only adjustments in the 5605, and I don't know what the value should actually be- more on this later). Still falls into protection. gets to a point where it will not come out of protection
Power Board- from what I can tell, the power board matches the 5606 power board schmatic. I had to disassemble the entire front of the unit to access the board, so I removed the tuner string (just unrouted), lights, all the switches and all of their boards. Recapped the power board, and checked the resistors. I found a couple resistors that were off on the power board, so I replaced them as well. But, on the power board, I replaced with these Caps, I don't remember the exact qty of each, but I got 10 of each. I know the 1000uF at 50v was qty.3 because I ordered 4 as they were the most expensive.
1000uF at 50V
100uF at 16V
4.7uF at 16V
4.7uF at 50V
1uF at 50V
10uF at 16V
10uF at 25V
220uF at16V
220uF at 50V
100uF at 35V
10uF at 50V
22uF at 50V
3.3uF at 50V
3.3uF at 25V
.68uF at 50V- On a board above the power board.
Now, this is where I made my big mistake. On the power board, there is a transistor 2SC1061 (Q603 on the schmatic). It looks like it has ran hot (must have been working fine, because it powers the tuner section) , so I bought a replacement (MJE15034G) and I can tell you this is NOT CORRECT.
So, I power on the unit on the variac. I don't have the tuner on when I do this. Comes up, and comes out of protection- slowly, but it comes out. Have my phone and Spotify plugged in on the AUX. It works- sounds great. Now, I don't power down, never even occurs to me to start the tuner with the variac, push the tuner power button- and I get smoke!! The resistor that runs to the base of the transistor (R617 turned into a light bulb). So, I figure the transistor is not correct. I reinstall the original transistor, it tested good in a basic DMM test. I replace the resistor that smoked. Repower the tuner (variac this time), no smoke, and no tuner. I do some digging, and find I'm not getting the voltage on the Base that I'm supposed to. Calls for 13.6V, I'm at 4.56V. So, I find out the zener diode ZD605 is bad. The schematic says its a VHEHZ12B3//-1, the diode says 12 B3. I replaced it with MTZJ46SBR0G- maybe you guys can tell me if that was a good choice?? I tried looking at all the values, and that one I thought was close. I replaced it, and now the tuner is "working". It is distorted across the entire FM band, was clear before. The Aux is working great. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the burning resistor causing more damage than I found, or if the Zener Diode is not correct. It could also be that when I reinstalled the faceplate, and tuner string, I oiled the moving parts. I put a little oil on the analog tuner as well. Maybe some oil got on the blades, and is causing this distortion? Maybe I need to re-align the tuner? I just went out and cleaned the tuner out with contact spray, and cleaned some oxidation off of it. I will try it again later to see if that helped.
Protection Relay Issue. So, I said I got the receiver to come out of protection. I am not sure what the idle current is supposed to be on this unit. The 5606 schematic is calling for 100mV +/- 10mV. Before doing the adjustment, the relay clicked in about 5-10 seconds and was out of protection. That was after recapping the power board. I put the DMM on my test posts, and I was at around 10mV. I adjusted both channels up to 100mV as the 5606 says, and it seems to stay in protection for minutes, probably 2-3 minutes. I brought it down to 70mV, and it comes out in maybe 10-15 seconds. So, a question would be what would be a good value for this?? I imagine your guys guess would be way better than mine. I am thinking of going to 50mV and seeing what happens? What would be the result of it actually supposed to be 100mV and I only run it at 50mV? Would it damage anything? The other thing that is weird with this. There is a protection light on the front of the unit. Red when in protection and goes to green when it comes out. The light is red when I power the unit on (normal). Then, when the relay finally does click, the red and green light are illuminated, then after a period of time more, it goes completely green. It seems to me (no real experience) that its slowly building the voltage or current to click the relay. I hope that makes sense, and maybe someone has an idea. Maybe I have a bad Cap?? But, that is where I have been and where I am at. I'll update this as I move forward. I hope it can help someone with a 5605 as well.
So, the other receiver is the Optonica SA-5605. It is super dirty- I'll attach the pics. It would power on, come out of protection, but no sound. So, in all my wisdom (very little experience), I replaced the output transformers- that seems to be what I have seem recommended. The originals were a pair each of Hitachi 2SD675A's and 2SB655A's- replaced with MJ15003G and MJ15007G from Mouser- I think they are fine, maybe you guys will tell me they are the wrong ones. Changed those out, and still nothing from the receiver. But, I notice that the left channel meter is doing something, the right is dead. The receiver powers on, then the receiver has a separate switch to power on, and I can see the receiver is working form the stereo lights and meters. So, I started check the amplifier board.
Amplifier board. I lifted the legs of every resistor on one channel, the right one I believe. There are two things I found out. 1. I had the service manual for the SA-5606- They are nothing alike, the schematic is no good. 2. The very first resistor is open. I checked al the resistors. Here is the weird thing. Almost every 100 ohm resistor on the board is bad, like 860Kohm, of 745kOhm, they are all over the place. Now, I'm colorblind AF, so I am using my camera phone to illuminate, and try to decode all the resistors. I think I got them all correct, but some of those bands on a blue resistor are nearly impossible for me. Is that a grey band, violet?? green?? The other weird thing- if a resistor was bad on the right channel, it was typically bad on the left?? Does that make any sense? What would cause that?? I was wondering if it were struck by lightening. I ordered all the replacement resistors I found, and recapped the entire board. I don't remember the exact quantities, but the caps on the board were:
4.7uF at 16V
4.7uF at 63V
220uF at 16V
3.3uF at 25V
-I just ordered 10 of each to start a collection, and I believe that was all the eloctrolytics.
Got everything in, brought it up on the Variac, had the FM on. I have sound!! Sounds Great!! I mess with the Volume knob- falls into protection. Ok, so I power off and on, and get the same results. Auxiliary inputs are quiet, not as loud as the FM. I deoxit all the pots really good, set the idle current ( that is the only adjustments in the 5605, and I don't know what the value should actually be- more on this later). Still falls into protection. gets to a point where it will not come out of protection
Power Board- from what I can tell, the power board matches the 5606 power board schmatic. I had to disassemble the entire front of the unit to access the board, so I removed the tuner string (just unrouted), lights, all the switches and all of their boards. Recapped the power board, and checked the resistors. I found a couple resistors that were off on the power board, so I replaced them as well. But, on the power board, I replaced with these Caps, I don't remember the exact qty of each, but I got 10 of each. I know the 1000uF at 50v was qty.3 because I ordered 4 as they were the most expensive.
1000uF at 50V
100uF at 16V
4.7uF at 16V
4.7uF at 50V
1uF at 50V
10uF at 16V
10uF at 25V
220uF at16V
220uF at 50V
100uF at 35V
10uF at 50V
22uF at 50V
3.3uF at 50V
3.3uF at 25V
.68uF at 50V- On a board above the power board.
Now, this is where I made my big mistake. On the power board, there is a transistor 2SC1061 (Q603 on the schmatic). It looks like it has ran hot (must have been working fine, because it powers the tuner section) , so I bought a replacement (MJE15034G) and I can tell you this is NOT CORRECT.
So, I power on the unit on the variac. I don't have the tuner on when I do this. Comes up, and comes out of protection- slowly, but it comes out. Have my phone and Spotify plugged in on the AUX. It works- sounds great. Now, I don't power down, never even occurs to me to start the tuner with the variac, push the tuner power button- and I get smoke!! The resistor that runs to the base of the transistor (R617 turned into a light bulb). So, I figure the transistor is not correct. I reinstall the original transistor, it tested good in a basic DMM test. I replace the resistor that smoked. Repower the tuner (variac this time), no smoke, and no tuner. I do some digging, and find I'm not getting the voltage on the Base that I'm supposed to. Calls for 13.6V, I'm at 4.56V. So, I find out the zener diode ZD605 is bad. The schematic says its a VHEHZ12B3//-1, the diode says 12 B3. I replaced it with MTZJ46SBR0G- maybe you guys can tell me if that was a good choice?? I tried looking at all the values, and that one I thought was close. I replaced it, and now the tuner is "working". It is distorted across the entire FM band, was clear before. The Aux is working great. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the burning resistor causing more damage than I found, or if the Zener Diode is not correct. It could also be that when I reinstalled the faceplate, and tuner string, I oiled the moving parts. I put a little oil on the analog tuner as well. Maybe some oil got on the blades, and is causing this distortion? Maybe I need to re-align the tuner? I just went out and cleaned the tuner out with contact spray, and cleaned some oxidation off of it. I will try it again later to see if that helped.
Protection Relay Issue. So, I said I got the receiver to come out of protection. I am not sure what the idle current is supposed to be on this unit. The 5606 schematic is calling for 100mV +/- 10mV. Before doing the adjustment, the relay clicked in about 5-10 seconds and was out of protection. That was after recapping the power board. I put the DMM on my test posts, and I was at around 10mV. I adjusted both channels up to 100mV as the 5606 says, and it seems to stay in protection for minutes, probably 2-3 minutes. I brought it down to 70mV, and it comes out in maybe 10-15 seconds. So, a question would be what would be a good value for this?? I imagine your guys guess would be way better than mine. I am thinking of going to 50mV and seeing what happens? What would be the result of it actually supposed to be 100mV and I only run it at 50mV? Would it damage anything? The other thing that is weird with this. There is a protection light on the front of the unit. Red when in protection and goes to green when it comes out. The light is red when I power the unit on (normal). Then, when the relay finally does click, the red and green light are illuminated, then after a period of time more, it goes completely green. It seems to me (no real experience) that its slowly building the voltage or current to click the relay. I hope that makes sense, and maybe someone has an idea. Maybe I have a bad Cap?? But, that is where I have been and where I am at. I'll update this as I move forward. I hope it can help someone with a 5605 as well.
