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Original Thorens TD160 arrives on my SHELF and asking folks questions

O

ondaride

New Member
Hi
If anyone wants to welcome me to the Thorens camp, I'M ALL IN!
The seller claimed not to use it much since 1974 when he bought one and it was pretty much correct statement. That did not make this turntable any more marketable than one that had been in usage at all except chassis is really in nice shape and very nice cosmetic shape overoverall like new and that what drove me to pay $600 for it -- the largest buck EVER paid for turntable by me LOL!!! Although these turntables are relatively light and easy to ship, I still voided searching for better 'shipped' deals on internet and drove it to pick up locally for almost 2 hours one way, because the only person that I trust to ship out turntable is myself.

I went through complete clean-up under bottom cover that had never been opened. and re-lube nearly dry and filthy bearing prior even starting playing. Once I started playing, one channel is out so I decided just to plug in Technics wires tonearm wires for now instead of cutting and re-attaching generic RCA plugs -- same time labor.

Plugged in to my rig and it definitely great singer! The bass so deep I haven't heard from any CD-player and not boomy at all. Using AudioTechica ATN144/ATN140 -- SWEEEEET!
Questions (mainly wires LOL):
1. Would I benefit from better wires vs. Technics ones? If yes, I'd probably like to shop for budget high quality 26...33awg or just simly high quality 26awg microphone Mogami cable.
Please share experiences on that part. What did you use?

2. Will it make sense to get descent RCA plugs and simply cut those plastic ones? Joining 33AWG to RCA plugs might be challenging if they don't have terminals easy to heat and crimps of proper size to secure cable onto the plug. So my concern is finding the way to sleeve the end of wires prior attaching to any after-market RCA plug.

3. Drilling in RCA female connectors to the back of chassis and use conventional set of interconnects... Wonder if there ones that have 26AWG or thinner RCA cables? Anyone knows? Technics wires are 22s I believe and they're definitely temporary as I will definitely need them on one of my Technics decks that are being HEAVILY used by DJs non-stop sooner or later.

4. Chassis upgrades? I've seen large and heavy ones and I've seen solid wood larger chassis. Which one and what benefit if any? I believe suspended turntable will less-likely benefit from chassis weight, but can't wait for more detailed insite.
 
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I think I know which wires I need. It's KAB technics wires terminated on one end 33pf/m low capacitance Litz strands -- hassle free.
 
Congrats on the new table. These are NOT easy to ship. They may be light weight compared to some, but the suspension could bounce like crazy especially if it was rough handled. The headshell wires could be broke, the interconnect could be bad. Just sit back and have fun with it. Work will not be hard, but those tiny headshell wires can be a pain.
 
suspension screws on mine have c-clips so they will never disappear from chassis. it's easy to ship this way, but, nevertheless, I picked up mine locally and I don't think I paid much per condition and near-new ATN144 cartridge with original stylus (another at least $100 there).
headshell wires are perfectly dandy and firm.
 
Congrats. I've had my TD-150 since 1974. Great turntables.

As to your interconnects. Don't dive down the rabbit hole of changing out cables willie-nilliy. The capacitance of the interconnecting wire, along with the capacitive load in the preamp and the tonearm wiring has a distinct effect on the tonal balance you hear. The total of tonearm, interconnect and preamp loading should match what the cartridge is designed for to get the best results from the cartridge. That being said, a delibrite mismatch may provide you, the listener, with a more pleasing experience. Any change you do can effect that loading and change the tonal balance. Without doing some research to find out the optimum load for your cartridge and what you already have in place, you are just as likely to make a change that sounds worse or better or just different.

Using the caples you currently have I would advise you to make sure that the contacting surfaces are clean bright and shinny (for good electrical contact) and the outside shield connector grabs the jack tightly for good contact. Then live with it a while as you research the capacitive load you have vs what the cartridge wants.

Congrats on a fine turntable.

Shelly_D
 
ondaride said:
suspension screws on mine have c-clips so they will never disappear from chassis. it's easy to ship this way, but, nevertheless, I picked up mine locally and I don't think I paid much per condition and near-new ATN144 cartridge with original stylus (another at least $100 there).
headshell wires are perfectly dandy and firm.
Click to expand...

Sorry but you're kidding yourself. Shipping is NOT easy. See here for what WILL happen if you don't know how to pack a TT.

http://vinylnirvana.com/vintage-turntables-for-sale/turntable-packing-wall-of-shame/
 
Shelly_D, I doubt that the original wire is OK at this point. The RCA plugs from KAB are $12 + shipping each and assembled wire of premium quality is $54 shipped. The new RCA plugs will be not easy to bond with hair-thin wire and will require me to hassle with filling holes to make sure that RCA plugs will not be loosing contacts during inouts. Capacitive load I would like to adjust ONLY at phonostage level using my dearest Pioneer 9800 amp. Thus the smaller the better will work. I also swap between MM and MC cartridges -- haven't decided yet and still testing to my likes. Not really willing to select wire just for one cartridge -- want to select for all of them that comply with arm and there quite a-bit indeed.

bang4buck, shipping of turntable isn't simple, but apparently I shipped far more of them than you've lived your years. I just don't purchase turntables that are being shipped to me -- only pick-up locally.
 
Yep, and those must have been Walker CJs since they had a wooden "chassis". I'm outta here, you're clearly not interested in serious advice.
 
Walker CJs, AR XAs it really does not matter -- I want to hear choices I have -- chassis, wires, spindles -- not shipping not going to -- planning to keep till my last breath. I picked it up for me personally and not to flip -- so shipping rules out 100%.
 
41445E59-500E-4634-A99F-A564F5634022.jpeg Welcome to the Thorens family. I’m on my second and should have never gotten ride of the first. I’ve been restoring a TD-165 for the last three or so months and have a few thoughts. Do you have a few pics you can share? I replaced or am replacing the RCA and power cord. They were both about shot. Just getting it back to testing in my system but am taking a break from working on it today.
 
ondaride said:
1. Would I benefit from better wires vs. Technics ones?
Click to expand...
No. The stock cables were made by Ortofon, they are very good.

ondaride said:
2. Will it make sense to get descent RCA plugs and simply cut those plastic ones?
Click to expand...
You can do this, it's very common, especially if the stock plugs are tarnished or flaky.

ondaride said:
3. Drilling in RCA female connectors to the back of chassis and use conventional set of interconnects... Wonder if there ones that have 26AWG or thinner RCA cables? Anyone knows? Technics wires are 22s I believe and they're definitely temporary as I will definitely need them on one of my Technics decks that are being HEAVILY used by DJs non-stop sooner or later.
Click to expand...
This is a Thorens, not Technics, Who cares about what Technics does anyway? You want choice phono cables, slap some RCA jacks on the back, solder the tonearm wires to them and get some budget Van Damme Silver Plated OFC RCA Phono Cables, or equivalent quality cables and you're done.

ondaride said:
4. Chassis upgrades? I've seen large and heavy ones and I've seen solid wood larger chassis. Which one and what benefit if any? I believe suspended turntable will less-likely benefit from chassis weight, but can't wait for more detailed insite.
Click to expand...
You mean plinth. For the 160 a massive solid wood plinth is beneficial if you have some structural / environmental problem like whacky floorboards or traffic rumble. If you have a solid cement floor like in a basement, it's just overhead. The chassis and sub-chassis can be damped with various materials like Sonic Barrier sound proofing sheets, cork, whatever... Give it a chance bare stock so you can compare it later on. The differences are subtle.
 
Many thanks Tom indeed for great detailed answer that simplifies my endeavors. I only have to take some effort to bond wires strong to RCA plug. Having hefty number of brass ones, but they're too thick to be bonded with original wire TIGHT. Will probably have to use some 'filling' inside the 'bucket' to secure wire. Need ones able to clamp onto the insulation fo sho.... Any idea where these are. I found KABUSA ones http://kabusa.com/frameset.htm?
 
MikeT, I did not capture underneath the bottom cover, but once I get my new RCA plugs of choice for original wires, I will post my assembly. It's far simpler than Technics that I normally deal with as one who gives them for rent to DJ's and service those after gigs when necessary. Have close relationship with KABUSA for all my Technics and other turntables needs. This Thorens gave me substantially more than even modded Technics able to give.
 
You gotta forget about Technics for a while and maybe about kabusa too. Some turntable enthusiasts can actually take an audiophile leak, so to say, without Kevin's guidance. Welcome to the Thorens realm, it's a new bold world. Kinda like going to college. Forget about Jr. High.
 
Got that :-) One last thingie: Don't really want to spend $40+ shipping from Jerry Raskin on original belt and would like to ask for size mainly width and thickness. I can order such from McMaster for single digit amount shipped. Currently it has thinner newer turntable belt looks like Crosly or so for very thin pulley -- so only spinning now at 33rpm or have to lift outer platter to snap to 45rpm.
 
All I did with the stock cables on mine was cut the crusty RCA ends off and replace them with a pair of Switchcraft 3502A. Same wires otherwise that came on it in the early 70s and they are fine. I like those plugs because they fit on my old tube gear. Many others are fat enough that the tight spacing on a lot of tube amps doesn't play nice. I mark left/right with a piece of red or white heat shrink around the cable where it goes into the plug. They do actually make these plugs with a black body too, so you could do a nickel one and a black one if you're so inclined.
 
One Link you were given earlier. Get your parts from Dave at Vinyl Nirvana. If you have questions, buy a little consulting time with him. Best money I ever spent in this hobby.
Enjoy the new world
Best, Chris
 
No need for exact measurements. all drive belts assumed to have stretch. Your provided sizes are sufficient for McMaster to order. https://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-belts/=1biolkj -- made to order. just plug in your values and the number will be around $6...7. No chit pal. In fact, I have about 5 more turntables that need belt on my sale list to sell: Sony 5520; Technics SL-23; Technics SL-B5 stacker; Sansui FR 1080; Yamaha YP211. All come to me with automatic issues... I know these are all joke fo sho.
 
The TD-160 runs better with much more accurate speed with an official Thorens belt. They are not cheap, but as always you get what you pay for. I tried to cheap out on my TD-160 and was not happy with the result. Got a Thorens belt from Thakker, it was a major improvement. Just something to think about.
 
There is another source for those in the US, someplace up in New England if I remember right. Can't think of the name of the place. Someone must know it. I have a generic on mine, the speed isn't quite right. I don't have that table in regular use though because of flooring problems so it hasn't been a priority to replace.
 
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