Paint and primer in all-in-one. Any experience?

[c.coyle]

I'm going to be stripping some indoor wainscoating and trim down to bare wood, then repainting with gloss or semi-gloss latex. In checking out a few big name paint manufacturers, it seems like they are all touting "paint and primer in one" for their top-of-the-line paints. I have always primed first on bare wood to save topcoat, avoid dull spots, and get better adherance.

I'm also going to put a matte latex over some bare plaster and sheet rock, and I just cannot believe that I can skip primer in that situation.

I'm skeptical. Should I be?

 

[Yamaki]

I've tried it and wasn't real happy. If you have a porous material, the application of a primer first will let you know if you got good coverage or not. Paint & Primer together is not as homogenous as a primer only mix and you get do get those dull spots that a bit more primer applied takes care of.

 

[Mr.Jim]

Paint and primer is only really good for pre-painted surfaces. New wood needs primed anyway. The best tip for any painting is to buy the best paint. Good paint covers, and will be washable. Cheap paint will take additional coats, and not have the same durability. I am a roofing and painting contractor. Go where the painters go for paint.

 

[RickeyM]

I second that about bare wood needing primer. Add to that plaster as well. If you're using a roller get the best roller cover they sell. Top quality paint with a top quality roller & cover make the job so much easier.

 

[tubed]

It seems all the large companies are headed toward the all in one paint.
I didn't trust it at first but I was surprised at the results.
It's water based and will have a different look than oil based paint I but like said, paints seems to have gone this direction away from oil products.
Behr brand is pretty good and a relatively good value, imo.

 

[the skipper]

I've used Behr for years and will continue to do so. Sometimes a second coat IS needed but that just might be my CDO* kicking in.

*That's like OCD but in alphabetical order. ...AS IT SHOULD BE!!!

 

[kaplang]

I wouldn’t trust it put directly on wood. Best to put down primer and then color coat.

 

[faber12]

You should be skeptical.

PP1 is mostly a marketing thing. I can give you more details, but I worked in a hardware store paint Dept. for the last 11 years.

Even with a PP1 product, they still recommend that the first coat be considered a primer coat.

 

[c.coyle]

Too good to be true. At $70.00 a gallon and up for top-of-the-line interior latex, I'm not sacrificing any of it as primer. It's going to be the old reliable Zinsser 1-2-3, tinted close to the topcoat color.

 

[gadget73]

Tinting the primer definitely makes the topcoat easier, though I generally prefer 2 coats of paint. Direct over wood, the shellac primer (Zinsser 123) first then 2 coats of your final color will give great results. Just make sure you have enough ventillation, shellac primer uses alcohol as a solvent and that will give you a heck of a buzz along with a raging headache in a closed room.

 

[c.coyle]

Tinting the primer definitely makes the topcoat easier, though I generally prefer 2 coats of paint. Direct over wood, the shellac primer (Zinsser 123) first then 2 coats of your final color will give great results. Just make sure you have enough ventillation, shellac primer uses alcohol as a solvent and that will give you a heck of a buzz along with a raging headache in a closed room.

Under oil or latex, I've been using 1-2-3 (water based, almost no odor) on bare wood forever, unless I have knots or stains to cover. For knots and stains, I like Zinsser Cover Stain, which is oil based. Zinsser B-I-N white shellac primer for covering up real nasty stuff.

This bathroom job will be old but clear bare wood, plus some sheet rock and some old plaster that had previously been primed and wallpapered. Flat finish on the walls, semi-gloss on the wainscoat, doors, and trim.

 

[gadget73]

ah its the BIN I was thinking of. I redid the shipping office at work with T1-11 plywood inside and out. Used the shellac primer under the paint just because of how awful that material is. It worked, never had any issues with bleed-through from knots.

 

[faber12]

Zinsser also now makes a synthetic shellac, it is almost as good as the alcohol based product, but is low odor, water based, and usually less expensive.

 

[faber12]

Too good to be true. At $70.00 a gallon and up for top-of-the-line interior latex, I'm not sacrificing any of it as primer. It's going to be the old reliable Zinsser 1-2-3, tinted close to the topcoat color.

Exactly. 1-2-3 can be found on sale for $15 around here, why use the $$$ top coat as a primer too?

 

[c.coyle]

I took advantage of Sherwin Williams' 30% off sale (until 12/29) and got 3 gallons of Duration for $140. Then I went over to Home Depot and bought some 1-2-3. And some Citrustrip. My methylene chloride days are over. It probably took 10 years off my life.

 

[Chrisxo55441]

i researched this a bit when i replaced some wooden windows on my house most of the things i found said there was no primer in them just a thicker paint. i wouldnt use it on bare wood it will probably start to come off after a few years. just google paint and primer in one and you will find a bunch of stuff like this

"This paint is advertised as allowing you to eliminate the priming step from your painting process. While it is called paint and primer in one, there is no primer in the mix. As described later, it is a thicker paint that builds higher, giving you a sturdier coat of paint."

 

[gadget73]

Citrustrip. My methylene chloride days are over.

Citristrip isn't quite as fast, but it does work pretty well. Also way less awful for you. I used it for the staircase spindles that I refinished. I find that laying plastic wrap over it to keep it moist makes it work better. If it dries up you end up with a real mess to clean.

 

[c.coyle]

Citristrip isn't quite as fast, but it does work pretty well. Also way less awful for you. I used it for the staircase spindles that I refinished. I find that laying plastic wrap over it to keep it moist makes it work better. If it dries up you end up with a real mess to clean.

That's the plan. Plastic wrap and do something else for a few hours

 

[RickeyM]

That's the plan. Plastic wrap and do something else for a few hours

That's why plan to get rid of some old window moldings. Instead of stripping/cleaning/repainting, Just rip out the old, put in some new & paint it. Especially considering there's probably some lead paint there.

 

[HTHMAN]

I really do not see much difference between to new all-in-one paints vs the old one-coat ones. Marketing? What bothers me when they change bases is when you go back a couple years later to buy a gallon for touch up and it has changed just enough that you have to paint the entire wall.