Painting Sansui TU-919 (Color Match, Advice)

[Payton1985]

Hi all,

I recently acquired a Sansui TU-919. The only notable issues are some surface scratches on the metal case and some minor paint chipping. As a result, I'd like to repaint the case.

Would anyone happen to have any suggestions on a paint color/brand that is known as close/identical? I saw that someone thought Rust-Oleum Hammered Finished Black Paint was a match for a AU-717, but I'm not sure if the AU-717 and TU-919 have the exact same color scheme. Lastly, would it be safe to first apply paint stripper to the case to start fresh and improve the resulting finish?

Thanks for any guidance.

 

[painttoad]

there is no better base for a paint job than a properly prepped factory finish, this goes for cars as well as audio chassis'...only remove what is required for the repair.

i'd go with satin black myself.

if its powdercoated , paint stripper will not remove it anyway.

 

[Payton1985]

there is no better base for a paint job than a properly prepped factory finish, this goes for cars as well as audio chassis'...only remove what is required for the repair.

i'd go with satin black myself.

if its powdercoated , paint stripper will not remove it anyway.

I appreciate it. If I went that route, should I use anything to scuff up the factory finish before applying the new coat or just wipe clean and directly apply?

 

[painttoad]

I appreciate it. If I went that route, should I use anything to scuff up the factory finish before applying the new coat or just wipe clean and directly apply?

you always need to provide a "TOOTH" for paint to stick. it's really going to depend on the type of topcoat you plan to use and the technique used in it's application. could be anywhere from 320-600grit. or a red scotchbrite or a grey scotchbrite .

most paints will tell you what to sand with prior to application

 

[Payton1985]

you always need to provide a "TOOTH" for paint to stick. it's really going to depend on the type of topcoat you plan to use and the technique used in it's application. could be anywhere from 320-600grit. or a red scotchbrite or a grey scotchbrite .

most paints will tell you what to sand with prior to application

Thanks. You've made this process easier than I anticipated based on the knowledge that stripping the factory finish might be ill-advised. Looking forward to cleaning it up.

 

[painttoad]

Thanks. You've made this process easier than I anticipated based on the knowledge that stripping the factory finish might be ill-advised. Looking forward to cleaning it up.

yup.

if i was doing this, on the cheap, i would buy some rustoleum paint n primer in one. i would clean the surface thoroughly with windex then scuff the entire thing thoroughly with a red scuff pad then i would feather out the scratches with 320/400 grit, reclean then put a coat on the repair, let it flash and put another coat on going a little bit past the repair then let it dry.repeat until you can no longer see through the paint in the repaired area. wetter coats = longer dry time. after it dries i would lightly sand the entire piece with 600 grit making sure that there is no halo showing through the repair, if there is, sand it down a bit more til its gone, as long as you don't sand through to bare metal and you have a smooth surface then you can reclean and apply a light coat to the entire piece, let it flash them hammer on a full wet coat and let that flash off well. followed by another full wet coat.

use a tack rag prior to and in between coats. this is where you must know how dry the paint is because dragging a tack rag across a soft finish will make a mess. don't press with the tack rag, just lightly graze it across the surface.

 

[Payton1985]

yup.

if i was doing this, on the cheap, i would buy some rustoleum paint n primer in one. i would clean the surface thoroughly with windex then scuff the entire thing thoroughly with a red scuff pad then i would feather out the scratches with 320/400 grit, reclean then put a coat on the repair, let it flash and put another coat on going a little bit past the repair then let it dry.repeat until you can no longer see through the paint in the repaired area. wetter coats = longer dry time. after it dries i would lightly sand the entire piece with 600 grit making sure that there is no halo showing through the repair, if there is, sand it down a bit more til its gone, as long as you don't sand through to bare metal and you have a smooth surface then you can reclean and apply a light coat to the entire piece, let it flash them hammer on a full wet coat and let that flash off well. followed by another full wet coat.

use a tack rag prior to and in between coats. this is where you must know how dry the paint is because dragging a tack rag across a soft finish will make a mess. don't press with the tack rag, just lightly graze it across the surface.

Going to follow your advice to a T.

 

[painttoad]

Going to follow your advice to a T.

i'm always around if you need help. ask in this thread or message, does not matter to me.

 

[bluesky]

Ask the guy in AK Sansui. They know exactly.

 

[Payton1985]

Ask the guy in AK Sansui. They know exactly.

Thank you so much!