Panasonic console SE9000 HG Power problem

[NickM.]

Has anyone seen older power supply like this. It was running a receiver, reel to reel, and turntable till i could not get any power to the TT after cleaning it. Tested the TT motor inside and it ran okay, but not in the cabinet. So i pulled the SLT-7Q1S power out to clean and check, but i don’t know what I’m looking for other than the individual voltage readings for each terminal. In the cabinet the voltage is set to 120V.

I did use electrical contact cleaner to blow away 50 years of dust and dirt but i could really use some pointers as to which way to go on this rebuild. So far so good; now I’m looking up at the stars for answers. Thanks for your input!
Nick M.

 

[swechsler]

I'm a little unclear what you mean by

Tested the TT motor inside and it ran okay, but not in the cabinet.

How did you test it without the power supply? Does the turntable actually take power from the power supply (in my experience most turntables, even those within consoles, run on the standard line voltage rather than requiring a separate power supply)? Maybe post some pics of how the turntable and the other components connect to the power supply.

 

[NickM.]

The TT didn’t have a needle and the whole system was a dust bowl. This it’s a first for me. I appreciate your patience. The console is in an old garage and the AM/FM worked fine.

I pulled the TT to get the needle info and tested with hot wire after a major cleanup and lube inside. 4 speed automatic was really glued down but ran great after several adjustments. When i put the tt back into the console the table had power. After pulling to get the cartridge and needle in and re-installing, there was no power. Double checked connections- nothing. Pulled it inside hot wire 120V checked all speeds were good.
So I lost power somewhere. Tested with voltmeter and got a jumpy reading. I get the basis that the problem is with the units power supply. The AM/FM worked fine the whole time.
I’ve got an photo album of the project. I’ll l try to get it uploaded. Thanks for your input!

 

[swechsler]

I notice that the power connector is three pins. This is sometimes used to power on the amplifier automatically when the turntable is started. I don't know if that's the case here. But since you know the turntable runs on 120VAC, worst case is that you can take power from elsewhere, you don't need it coming from the power supply.

 

[NickM.]

I notice that the power connector is three pins. This is sometimes used to power on the amplifier automatically when the turntable is started. I don't know if that's the case here. But since you know the turntable runs on 120VAC, worst case is that you can take power from elsewhere, you don't need it coming from the power supply.

 

[NickM.]

Yes, I believe you’re correct as to the power and preamp(?). I’m looking at the schematics trying to figure out how to accomplish this task. I am a novice and haven’t faintest idea. Should i consider getting a solder gun for this job? The power does connect thru the round three prong plug. Any idea what changed the power supply and what would you suggest i tap into for power?

The RtR is out of the cabinet now. Could this be a source?

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...5/&temp_hash=c385b36cf2b6c5aad543f853d4374017

 

[NickM.]

 

[swechsler]

Start by checking the power wire that goes from the amp to the turntable. Turn the system on, and see if you have power there (I assume you have a multimeter, you will need one for this job. If not, you can get an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight or Amazon). If not, trace the wire back to the amp/power supply, and check for power at the other ends of the wires (you'll be exposing yourself to 120V here, so be careful). Unplug the system and check for continuity between the power supply outputs and the ends of the cable (check common and hot). I don't know that you'll need the schematic, basically, you need to test each part of the signal path (again, common and hot) until you figure out which section has a break.

If you need to do any soldering, you'll want a soldering iron, not a gun.

 

[NickM.]

Well, the mm validates the cable and the 1.0A fuse. I could not get power thru the cable but got a 96.6v reading at the out terminal of the receiver.
The terminal for the phono on receiver is above the sticker. The three pins L-R order are B_RL. The largest pin appears to be the ground because there’s no plastic sheathing on it at the ends. I cleaned the cables pins but still no power. Receiver/tuner works well.

The wires that connect to the phono power to its plug are really thin but look connected. The cable plug ends are labeled 10 and 11 for what reason i don’t know. The rest is a riddle.
i did get “Everything Electronic”, by Michael Geier to explain the minutia. If you have any other suggestions or things I’ve missed, this novice is wondering why the wires are so thin in the tt.

With the cable showing no resistance at each pin, could it still be the weak link? I don’t know what the B_RL stands for. I’m including a pic of the tt motor. Does the part circled in red Iook bad?

 

[swechsler]

That thin cable above the sticker looks like the audio cable connecting the tonearm to the receiver, not power. Typically you won't have a shielded cable for power.

 

[NickM.]

I think i found the problem. I had been focusing on the wrong area. I made a rookie mistake and may have caused the connection problem when i tested the motor via hotwire and had an arc? A pic of the power plug receiver on the tt may reveal problem. May i ask for your opinion as to thoughts or instincts of this situation?

 

[swechsler]

I don't see anything obviously wrong where the arrow is pointing. Do a continuity test between the pin and where it connects to the motor (assuming the latter is accessible) and see what you get.

 

[NickM.]

I’ve combed the net and found tons of info but not pinpointed the plug. Any idea as to how many volts I should be getting from the output?

Any suggestions on where one would find replacement BSR turntable power input male plug and the female plug lead to the power output?

 

[swechsler]

I would assume it would be 120V coming from the power supply. Measure it with a multimeter. If you can't find that correct plug, you can always cut the wires of the back and crimp or solder them to the wire coming from the power supply. Just make sure you get the right connections.

 

[NickM.]

Lol... I’ll double check those connections, Thank you! This explains it well, confirms my thoughts why I only was measuring about 96V’s at the plug. I appreciate your input and will try it on. It’s a old, but confounding piece of equipment for a first timer. Lots of C-clips - but haven’t lost one yet...x.