Take your Service manual, and compare each and every Mylar, molded, and Electrolytic (minus the CAN CAPS)cap in it. If there is a discrepancy between the manual and the unit, go with the unit, and make corrections in your manual as long as the partlooks original. REPLACE ALL FRAKO branded electrolytics. If the Mylar is an EROFOL, you can usually leave them in. Anything cap wise that looks like a "dog turd" (brown or black, epoxy coated and with white writing on it) replace. Replace ALL Electrolytics. The list is about 40 parts long.
DIODES
CR1,2,3 I would use 1n5406
CR4,5,6,7 is now a diode Rectifier bridge. 400v 8A is sufficient I would think as the fuse is 5A.
Resistors: While you've got the CAN CAPS out replace all the inter section resistors, and any power resistors more than 5W. 7w resistors replace with 10W. 3w with 5w, 5w with 7 to 10w, The new resistors under 3w will be smaller than originals, 5W and above can be either Cement ceramic or ceramic coated (ohmite makes really good power resistors, with Vishay/Sprague a close 2nd)
Electrolytics replace with Nichicon UPW,UHE (power supply) and UKL for signal paths for Radials, or TVX or other Axials.
Mylars and molded you can use Cornell Dublier DME's and Panasonic ECQ's. Axials use Illinois cap yellow caps (these are priced better at AES (tubesandmore.com) WIMA MKS series can also be used for radial ended film caps.
Hope this helps you.
Larry
