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Partscaster or Frankenstrat

jocko_nc

jocko_nc

Super Member
Thanks to AK I am soon to be in the possession of two telecaster necks NOS from Musikraft. Early 2000s. These will be CNC blanks, with several raw fingerboards. Thus, the degree of difficulty for this build is going way up. I thought I was done for a while with electrics, but this opportunity was too tempting. I had considered a stratocaster in candy apple red for my son, but really it was just a thought. Now, I am going to try it.

I am going to be on the prowl for a body or two. Damaged. Dinged. Whatever. Something to salvage. Something cheap. The finish is going to be lacquer paint, so I will be able to fill or repair whatever I need to. With all the bodies out there, I am looking for opinions and recommendations. I do not know about the different types out there. Squire. Bullet. Affiniity. Starcaster. MIM. Korea Strat. Japan Strat. ???. There is no reason to choose anything valuable. The neck will be a Musikraft custom, so how would anyone even know if a body is MIM (not that I would likely spend the money) when the pedigree is on the headstock? A better body might come with better hardware, but good strat hardware is everywhere. Even used. I can mix and match. People change pickups like socks, so great used pickups can be easily found. New tuners are a given. The necks are pilot hole only so I can choose anything. 18:1 mini Grovers are always nice. No tremolo.

I know the neck pocket dimensions will be critical and a potential pitfall. It must be 100% on spot or else I will consider the project a miserable failure.

This is really an opportunity to fool around with a three coat candy apple red in nitro lacquer like the original hot rodders did back in the 50s. Early Spring works well for painting in the garage. It could come out fantastic. It just takes effort.

What would you guys do in this situation? Help me out please with some ideas.

Thanks.
 
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I guess I am describing a hardtail type. Looking at the options from BYOGuitar and Guitarmill. I have bought bodies from both and they were excellent.
 
Warmouth, Allparts, StewMac, plenty of options for a body. I'd go with the lightest one you can get, swamp ash or alder.
 
I am thinking of the available species, alder would be the ticket. Poplar is said to be similarly closed grain to alder, but alder is a harder softwood. Looking at the possible sources, if I were to go new, it would probably be a BYOGuitar rear rout. I bought a Tele body from them a couple of years ago and it was right on. I am leery of the low cost import bodies that are found all over the web. There doesn't seem to be many beat up Squires out there waiting to donate a body and some parts.

The rear rout option seems ideal for showcasing the paint job. Not sure what problems I might be walking into, however. Also, this would be a hardtail, so no tremolo rout required. Specific pics are not available, but I presume a hardtail from one of the reputable makers would include the bridge mount and string holes that would be similar to a Tele. Ferrules. I know there are three and four hole bridges for the Tele. Need to watch what I get. As far as the pickups, H-S-H seems to be the versatile way to go. What does the fit look like without a pickguard? Is this a tricky situation?

Whatever happens, I will not be looking for any parts until I have at least one neck reasonably completed. No reason to get ahead of myself. I may screw them up.
 
Either Alder or Poplar is closed grain, so you wouldn't have to fill the grain like swamp ash. I'm just partial to swamp ash because i'm allergic to alder.
Even the cheapest of imports will probably work for you. Since you're going candy apple red there's going to be so much paint that any blemishes or fills won't ever show. You can easily re-rout the pickup cavity for whatever configuration you want...it's all covered up by the pickguard anyway.

Look on ebay. You can get a candy apple red in alder for about $100 right now, wouldn't even have to paint it.
There's even a sunburst that's up to $12 with 3 days left.
 
jocko_nc said:
Whatever happens, I will not be looking for any parts until I have at least one neck reasonably completed. No reason to get ahead of myself. I may screw them up.
Click to expand...

Smart... The neck is almost everything critical and hard to do right all in one place...

Don't let yourself get overwhelmed with all the expensive options...

Pine will function as well as any of the more expensive body woods especially considering that assembly damage is a possibility...

A guitar build is one of those simple seeming jobs that can become too complicated and overly expensive really quick...

The markups on parts is insanely high so definitely try to be sure what you buy actually ends up on the guitar...

My first build was a total disaster financially because I kept changing my mind about if I liked the parts or not...

Paint is a very wise choice for your build it will allow you to cover up any minor errors... There will be small errors there always is...

Shielding the body pockets with conductive graphite paint or copper tape is probably the most important inside detail...

What good is perfect electronics if the guitar picks up stray radio noises...

Same thing with the outside guitar looks what good is it to have a perfect looking guitar if it plays lousy...

So prioritize the functionality over the looks too...

Good luck, Have Fun and be safe...

Don
 
Neck parts arrived late, but I have them now and they look fine. The two exotic woods are way cool. One neck is a heel-adjust and the other is headstock, so I get to experience both. I have been reading up on techniques for building the necks. I have a fret caul and inserts for the radius(s). This will go in the drill press, which is heavy enough for the job. I need to build a platform to work from. Have MDF for the job. I am planning to build a cradle to hold the necks that will have a 15 degree flat from which I can accurately bevel the fret ends and fingerboards with a block and sandpaper. The MDF and some clamps. Looking at truss rods now. Installation techniques look to be all over the place. I found some (nice) dual-action truss rods at biterroot guitars that should fit the bill, especially the heel-adjust. I will be staying away from stainless frets. Why add to the difficulty? I need to check the last Warmoth neck I did last year that it did not have stainless. It went fine, however the tough work was already done.

I am probably going to build the first as headstock-adjust with a maple top. A learning exercise. The second will be for keeps and be heel-adjust with exotic fingerboard. I have fixtures and jigs to figure out before actually getting into these necks.
 
I think you might be correct... $275 for a nice Warmoth starts to look like a bargain. I think I can do it. Maybe. The parts cost me $60, otherwise no way I would have considered it. Two necks, five fingerboards. Educational.
 
Umm there's a usa Ebay seller that is selling unfinished roasted maple tele and strat necks and bodies that are really outstanding...

Here is one version I have bought quite a few from this seller and like the product...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Roasted-Ma...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

If you weren't aware roasted maple is very stable and won't swell from humidity, has a very nice sustain and response, it is basically a artificial aging process and is a very worth while material upgrade over regular rock maple...

Warmoth is truly awesome too but the cost...
 
jocko_nc said:
I am probably going to build the first as headstock-adjust with a maple top. A learning exercise.
Click to expand...

Sounds great. Post some pics along the way.

I built a lot of necks using double-acting headstock-adjusable rods. Start by routing the groove on a router table, then everything else goes off that center line.

A worthwhile project, stay safe :)
 
guitargrump said:
Umm there's a usa Ebay seller that is selling unfinished roasted maple tele and strat necks and bodies that are really outstanding...

Here is one version I have bought quite a few from this seller and like the product...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Roasted-Ma...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

If you weren't aware roasted maple is very stable and won't swell from humidity, has a very nice sustain and response, it is basically a artificial aging process and is a very worth while material upgrade over regular rock maple...

Warmoth is truly awesome too but the cost...
Click to expand...

That is an incredible value. Don't how he can do it for that price. You have bought these and the workmanship and quality is good? Amazing. Thanks for the heads up. I might get one or two just to have for future use.

How was the fit to the "proper" Fender neck pocket? I have to say between the body from Guitar Mill and the Warmoth neck the fit was absolutely spot-on perfect. A good feeling that is.
 
Just went shopping for parts...

Measured and they are (4) 12s and (1) 16.

Here are some pics of what we have going on. New phone, so the pics should be much better.

20220120_191809.jpg

20220120_191816.jpg

20220120_191842.jpg
 
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Got it. Very nice.
I thought you were working with lumber, disregard my previous post.

It's been years since I've done that work...but i can still smell the dust :)
 
I am second guessing the truss rod adjustment access. It does not resemble any of the necks I have seen. Check out the headstock neck. That will require a plug, but not the cylindrical one you usually see. These necks are carved out fully, so I guess I need to fit a square plug from the top. The plug where it will be exposed is not even square, really. It is tapered. Those roasted maple necks are looking more attractive...
 
The neck with adj. at the headstock looks like it just needs a coverplate.
I've done that style before. Make a simple 2 piece jig that will allow you to heat the plastic rod cover and bend it into whatever that curve is.

Unless i'm not understanding you right...because plugging it will eliminate access to the rod, no ?
 
Good call. You are probably right. I have never seen that on a "Fender" neck. Only explanation. Otherwise, I would have needed a hand-fit plug. Shaped, then drilled to match the adjustment location.
 
I think I am going to punt for the time being on these necks. They are not up the the standard for a fine build. No way I want to put a cover plate neck on a Strat. Unless the wood and quality was extremely good, some exotic neck. These are not that. Looking closely, this maple is more like a whitewood. Definitely maple, but extremely low density. I sanded a part out and am not thrilled. Feels nothing like a Warmoth, or a sugar maple, or a roasted maple. Grain feels wrong. Too soft to the touch. The wood on a MiteyMite is far superior. I think one of those from Ebay would be the ticket. One piece maple neck is fine, especially if quartersawn or roasted. I dig the color of some of those.
 
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