I'm working on refreshing a PAS3X - and yes it definitely is a 3x, and it happens to be factory wired, however there was much work done on it before I got it. My problem was that I was getting about 0.75vDC at the outputs. This is not supposed to happen on a PAS3X with the 1.0uF 25v caps at the output. These are physically located between the bass pot and pins 5(L) or 12(R) on PC5, and are there to block DC at the outputs. They were present in my amp, but probably original and they measured closer to 2uF and assumed to be leaky. I replaced them with new 1uF 63v Vishay electrolytics, but still getting DC. See blue caps in photo.
Hmmmm. Why I asked myself, and almost posted a question here.
Then I took a hard look at where these caps connect to board, which is at pin 5 or 12, which is after the bass control. But, someone put in two jumpers and connected pins 11, 12, and 13 together on the Right and 4, 5, and 6 together on the Left, thus by passing the tone controls (which were not doing anything) and also the 1.0uF caps, so they were not able to block the DC. Green and orange jumpers shown in photo, are now gone, and so is the DC at the outputs.
I will admit I've been working on this amp for several days, and did not question what those jumpers were for, or if they should be there, I just assumed they were part of the original build - this is my first PAS. Lesson learned. Never assume.
Here are some overall shots, including new DIY power supply, with fuse, and filament rectification. All voltages are good. Orange drops on the boards were there when I got it, keeping them in for now. Only other changes I made were to replace the loudness caps and tone caps, with the exception of the 0.002 Spragues, since I don't have the right value on hand.
Hmmmm. Why I asked myself, and almost posted a question here.
Then I took a hard look at where these caps connect to board, which is at pin 5 or 12, which is after the bass control. But, someone put in two jumpers and connected pins 11, 12, and 13 together on the Right and 4, 5, and 6 together on the Left, thus by passing the tone controls (which were not doing anything) and also the 1.0uF caps, so they were not able to block the DC. Green and orange jumpers shown in photo, are now gone, and so is the DC at the outputs.
I will admit I've been working on this amp for several days, and did not question what those jumpers were for, or if they should be there, I just assumed they were part of the original build - this is my first PAS. Lesson learned. Never assume.
Here are some overall shots, including new DIY power supply, with fuse, and filament rectification. All voltages are good. Orange drops on the boards were there when I got it, keeping them in for now. Only other changes I made were to replace the loudness caps and tone caps, with the exception of the 0.002 Spragues, since I don't have the right value on hand.