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Passive Preamp Question

JMiP

JMiP

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I just recently purchased a passive preamp (didn't even know it was a passive, really. It just sounded good) and I have a potentially embarrassing question about it:

One night I was playing some music and I accidentally turned off the preamp. However, the music kept right on a playing as if nothing happened. Uh...really? It seems to me that the power on the unit is only for selecting a different input and controlling the volume via the remote. So, the question is, Is this how passive preamps work? They don't actually need any sort of voltage to make them work? Am I the last person on this planet to know this? Is this the question that "42" was the answer to?
 
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JMiP said:
So, the question is, Is this how passive preamps work? They don't actually need any sort of voltage to make them work?
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Yes, that's how passive preamps work. The audio pathway contains no active -- i.e., powered -- elements. They may contain impedance or level matching transformers and passive attenuators (i.e., resistors) but nothing that requires power.
 
Also, when I A/B'd this unit against a highly regarded active preamp, this little passive preamp blew it away in sound quality.
 
DaveVoorhis said:
Yes.

Many also provide the ability to switch inputs.
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That's what mine is, basically: a volume knob and four inputs. The volume knob can also be controlled by the remote, but I am able to switch the inputs only by the remote, which kinda scares me.

I'm not sure how to create a back up remote with one of those universals jobbies, though, as this preamp was made in Turkey by a company that no longer exists and has no more remotes to send to me. I was told by the owner of the former company that a Sony TV remote would work. His English was so bad, though, that he wasn't able to elaborate.
 
JMiP said:
The volume knob can also be controlled by the remote, but I am able to switch the inputs only by the remote, which kinda scares me.

I'm not sure how to create a back up remote with one of those universals jobbies, though, as this preamp was made in Turkey by a company that no longer exists and has no more remotes to send to me. I was told by the owner of the former company that a Sony TV remote would work.
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It's worth borrowing a Sony remote to see if it does work.

Alternatively, get a universal learning remote, one with "IR learning" capability. You record your old remote's output into the new remote, then the new remote plays back the remote signal it's learned.
 
Passive means no active electronic components. But that doesn't mean it can't add distortion and noise to your system, or change the frequency response, or compromise your stereo separation. There will be insertion loss, too. But as you don't seem to be into analog,LP's , you will probably do just fine. No tone controls, or full functioning mode selector, no rumble or HF filters. I assume you have a tape in and out. Do you have balanced inputs and outputs. If your unit is totally balanced it would be less apt to add noise to the system.
 
twiiii said:
Passive means no active electronic components. But that doesn't mean it can't add distortion and noise to your system, or change the frequency response, or compromise your stereo separation. There will be insertion loss, too. But as you don't seem to be into analog,LP's , you will probably do just fine. No tone controls, or full functioning mode selector, no rumble or HF filters. I assume you have a tape in and out. Do you have balanced inputs and outputs. If your unit is totally balanced it would be less apt to add noise to the system.
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I am playing records. I'm using a modded old Realistic phono amp with my system.

Onkyo turntable (with an Audio Technica AT440MLb mm cartridge) > Realistic phone amp > passive preamp > Magnavox 8802 tube power amp > Klipsch KG4 speakers

This setup is easily the best sounding one that I've personally ever had for listening to records. Might be time to upgrade the CD player as the one that I have now produces sound that is clearly inferior to the sound produced by the turntable setup. It probably hurts that it's not a dedicated CD player. It's a Sony bluray player (space constraints!).
 
Oh, and the connections are all RCA and there is no tape options. It's just four RCA inputs and two RCA outputs and a power cord. The front is just a volume knob
 
Passive attenuators can indeed work quite well. I used a DIY formula for about ten years using DACT stepped attenuators, JPS wire and Cardas connectors.

I eventually upgraded to an active preamp that offered more transparency (as odd as that may sound) and better low level dynamic tracking. Such does not come inexpensively though.

Glad you've discovered what can be a very good and cost effective solution where impedance matching and gain doesn't provide a challenge.
 
I have a passive preamp that I like. It is powered to activate the input relays only. The chip to remember the input selection at power up is nice. I've used several of the input relay boards and like them. Zero cross talk.
 
PS Audio 4.6 preamp .....
Works great !
Can usually be found used for less than 200 bucks .....
Passive or active .....

Bk
 
JMiP said:
I am playing records. I'm using a modded old Realistic phono amp with my system.

Onkyo turntable (with an Audio Technica AT440MLb mm cartridge) > Realistic phone amp > passive preamp > Magnavox 8802 tube power amp > Klipsch KG4 speakers

This setup is easily the best sounding one that I've personally ever had for listening to records. Might be time to upgrade the CD player as the one that I have now produces sound that is clearly inferior to the sound produced by the turntable setup. It probably hurts that it's not a dedicated CD player. It's a Sony bluray player (space constraints!).
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You've a nice system there. The Realistic stage wouldn't be a 42-2101 or 42-2109 would it? I've been very impressed with those considering their easy availability and low cost. Even better after a recap. I've retired some far more expensive stages in favour of one in my second system.

DeeCee said:
I liked my passive so much, I wrote a review (which I rarely do):

https://www.audioasylum.com/reviews/Preamplifier-SS/Sonic-Euphoria/PLC/amp/97587.html

Mine is different as it attenuates using an auto-transformer.
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You're review could have been about my Schiit Saga though I suspect you're stage is somewhat better using transformers for matching.
 
Interesting read. How much do they cost? $200? $2000? $20000? It would be cool to A/B it against the one that I have now.
 
Passives are nice given proper component matching; auto-transformers make it somewhat easier with impedance matching. I also like the fact that there is no power cord and also the benefit of attenuation converting between voltage and current versus conversion of the signal to heat, effectively tossing the signal away.

Passive prices range from $20 to thousands as far as I've seen and they can be quite cost effective if properly selected for the given source.
 
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