PHX CL: MG-IIB Magneplanars- $100
- Thread starter wizargoz
- Start date
The 2 main issues with older Maggies is bass wire delamination and tweeter wire corrosion.
The thin aluminum wires will corrode eventually and fail-a fact of life with older Maggies. It's a not if thing-just when. Some buck the odds longer. If the tweeter wires have white spots-they are on their way. If not-they have-as mentioned been repaired.
De lamination will occur if the rear panels have a green sheen. A application of DAP Touch N Glow will recure these areas, but some bass wire ends will probably lift. and will need to be re-attached. This is where the DAP Contact Cement works well. But you need to remove the old green stuff with cotton swabs and Acetone for it to work correctly.
If the panels have a red sheen-leave them alone, as the bass wires will be fine.
Some panels may just have a few ends turning green, with the majority of the panel red. I would address the ends-removing all the green stuff, and use the DAP Contact Cement-as they will lift in time.
The Dap Touch N Glow works better with the middle panel wires turning green (i.e re curing) then the ends-as in my experience they will usually end up lifting if they are even slightly off the Mylar. If they are really still firmly attached you caught them early.
Bass wires almost never corrode as they are too thick.
UV exposure may play a part- but it would probably require a awful lot of it.
I think high humidity is the main culprit with the 3M Super 77, and 3M Milloxane, as they aren't waterproof, and secondly relatively weak adhesives.
High humidity also speeds up the tweeter wire corrosion.
If they spent their life in AZ-they are probably a nice red sheen.
The thin aluminum wires will corrode eventually and fail-a fact of life with older Maggies. It's a not if thing-just when. Some buck the odds longer. If the tweeter wires have white spots-they are on their way. If not-they have-as mentioned been repaired.
De lamination will occur if the rear panels have a green sheen. A application of DAP Touch N Glow will recure these areas, but some bass wire ends will probably lift. and will need to be re-attached. This is where the DAP Contact Cement works well. But you need to remove the old green stuff with cotton swabs and Acetone for it to work correctly.
If the panels have a red sheen-leave them alone, as the bass wires will be fine.
Some panels may just have a few ends turning green, with the majority of the panel red. I would address the ends-removing all the green stuff, and use the DAP Contact Cement-as they will lift in time.
The Dap Touch N Glow works better with the middle panel wires turning green (i.e re curing) then the ends-as in my experience they will usually end up lifting if they are even slightly off the Mylar. If they are really still firmly attached you caught them early.
Bass wires almost never corrode as they are too thick.
UV exposure may play a part- but it would probably require a awful lot of it.
I think high humidity is the main culprit with the 3M Super 77, and 3M Milloxane, as they aren't waterproof, and secondly relatively weak adhesives.
High humidity also speeds up the tweeter wire corrosion.
If they spent their life in AZ-they are probably a nice red sheen.
Last edited:
tomlinmgt
Lunatic Member
I've tried several big amps on my MMG's including Emotiva XPA-2, modded and recapped Hafler 500, Phase Linear 700B, and modded and recapped Soundcraftsmen MA5002. I like the Soundcraftsmen best. I run mine with dual 12" DIY subs and am amazed at the sound I get for the relatively small amount I have invested.
Friggin' NICE score, man. True ribbon Maggies are on my short list.
My H/K Sinature 1.5 works great with my SMG's.
The amp needs to have serious power into 4 ohm to realize the Magnepans full potential, even at lower volumes.
A good test is to borrow, or demo a nice 150-200 watt amp with good 4 ohm drive, and substitute it for your less powerful one. The results are clearly audible, especially in the bass region-even at low volumes. They need drive-no wimpy SET's
Around 150 wpc is ideal.
Magnepans soak up alot of power and finally get only so load-and that's it, unless you change the eq/tones and get the panles overloaded with bass etc-then they start slapping.
Best to have a nice driving combo and leave the tone control switch out.
The amp needs to have serious power into 4 ohm to realize the Magnepans full potential, even at lower volumes.
A good test is to borrow, or demo a nice 150-200 watt amp with good 4 ohm drive, and substitute it for your less powerful one. The results are clearly audible, especially in the bass region-even at low volumes. They need drive-no wimpy SET's
Around 150 wpc is ideal.
Magnepans soak up alot of power and finally get only so load-and that's it, unless you change the eq/tones and get the panles overloaded with bass etc-then they start slapping.
Best to have a nice driving combo and leave the tone control switch out.
