Picked up a pair of Polk RTA-12Cs... and bummer...
- Thread starter Jon S
- Start date
"they are the infamous SL2000... not well regarded because of their +5 dB peak at 12,000-13,000 Hz. Makes the speakers sound bright and shrill."
I'm guessing that's more because purists just need something to talk about. If you ever listened to those speakers on the showroom floor, "bright" and "shrill" Never came to mind.
Fix them, keep them as close to stock as possible, enjoy them for how they were designed, some of the best speakers of the age. 10, 20, 50 years from now, they'll be much more appreciated close to stock, even if "some" of the uber Polk guys might say they are "shrill".
I'm guessing that's more because purists just need something to talk about. If you ever listened to those speakers on the showroom floor, "bright" and "shrill" Never came to mind.
Fix them, keep them as close to stock as possible, enjoy them for how they were designed, some of the best speakers of the age. 10, 20, 50 years from now, they'll be much more appreciated close to stock, even if "some" of the uber Polk guys might say they are "shrill".
I got the schematic from the Polk site and ordered new Dayton Caps and resistors (OK, someone unexpectedly bought something from me with BIN on that auction site and I was feeling like it was found money).
These speakers are so sweet sounding it's like I'm discovering stereo again. My wife's out of town though; wait 'til she sees these - at least they're in my "man-cave".
JimB
These speakers are so sweet sounding it's like I'm discovering stereo again. My wife's out of town though; wait 'til she sees these - at least they're in my "man-cave".
JimB
I just installed the Dayton poly caps in one of my crossovers and am comparing it with the other (stock) one (put system in mono). I think there is a significant improvement. I'll have to listen for a while like this and then swap their positions (one of my ears is certainly going to have a different response curve then the other from years of driving with my driverside window open. I guess the Brits and Japanese would have the situation with their right ears versus the left in most of the world. Hmmm, I wonder if anyone ever did a study of that and adjust with different specs for left versus right speakers?
Nice thing is it'll take literally 2 minutes to unscrew & unplug the crossover/tweeter module and swap them. That way I can see how they sound without changing other variables (placement, electronics, my ears, etc).
The Dayton Caps are larger. I siliconed them on the underside for support. There's also one 2uf cap on the underside of the PCB (making the 25 a 27)..
So, I'm about $85 poorer but even happier with the performance of my beautiful RTA 12A speakers.
Wow, now I've got a total of $135 invested in them. Works for me! (See attached pix.)
JimB
Nice thing is it'll take literally 2 minutes to unscrew & unplug the crossover/tweeter module and swap them. That way I can see how they sound without changing other variables (placement, electronics, my ears, etc).
The Dayton Caps are larger. I siliconed them on the underside for support. There's also one 2uf cap on the underside of the PCB (making the 25 a 27)..
So, I'm about $85 poorer but even happier with the performance of my beautiful RTA 12A speakers.
Wow, now I've got a total of $135 invested in them. Works for me! (See attached pix.)
JimB
Attachments
VOT
Active Member
I know what you mean. Polk seems to have heavy investments in hot glue guns. I bought a pair of Polks once only to hear a rattle coming from one woofer. Popped it open to discover a drip of hot glue hanging right against the woofer cone. Snipped it off and good-bye rattle. I have seen inside several Polk cabinets and have been appalled at the prevalence of dried glue streams. They may have some good sounding products, but, under the hood tells another story.
heath2832
Active Member
+1, agreed
I have a pair of RT8's here that I'm restoring with the SL2000 tweeter and I have some thoughts about the tipped up high end subject. Any 1" dome is going to have some attenuation say 15-30 deg off axis above 10 kHZ, even more further off axis. If the system is designed for flat on axis, there will be only one beaming position where the FR is "right" or flat. But when the high end is tipped up, then there is essentially a cone where the FR is essentially flat. Standing is usually off axis, and if you do not toe in the speakers then the sweet spot is off axis. There are probably many more locations where it is correct than with a flat on axis response. The power response is also flatter. Just my opinion.
cornhulio
Super Member
+2. Not a hint of brightness on my 20 sl2000's.
Face
BROKEN
Maybe the problem is somewhere else.
Jon S
Super Member
Good spot for a joke...
Old man: "Doc, I think my wife is going deaf... how can I confirm it?"
Doc: "Stand 50 ft from your wife, ask her a question... if she doesn't answer, get closer and repeat the question again and repeat as needed... let me know how close you get before she answers..."
So the old man is in the living room and the wife is in the kitchen making dinner... so he shouts, "honey! what's for dinner?"
No reply, so he gets closer and again, "honey! what's for dinner?"
Still no reply so he gets closer still and again , "honey! what's for dinner?"
The wife answers, "for the third dang time, CHICKEN!!!"
Old man: "Doc, I think my wife is going deaf... how can I confirm it?"
Doc: "Stand 50 ft from your wife, ask her a question... if she doesn't answer, get closer and repeat the question again and repeat as needed... let me know how close you get before she answers..."
So the old man is in the living room and the wife is in the kitchen making dinner... so he shouts, "honey! what's for dinner?"
No reply, so he gets closer and again, "honey! what's for dinner?"
Still no reply so he gets closer still and again , "honey! what's for dinner?"
The wife answers, "for the third dang time, CHICKEN!!!"